Cigarette lighter outlet stays live in a 1997?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Montana Cruiser said:
One last thing, where the heck is the "degree" symbol/key on a standard keyboard? :D


CTRL + SHIFT + @, SPACE....on mine, anyway.
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
My virgin ears guys!!!!!(language please, family forum and all that...) :D

Go to chat if you wanna cuss :flipoff2:

OK mom, fixed what I could, slapped myself on the wrist and said ten bloody Mary's. :crybaby:

I'm assuming I can say butt monkey and butter though, just not one right after the other (like that). :D

TJK
 
Montana Cruiser said:
One last thing, where the heck is the "degree" symbol/key on a standard keyboard? :D

If yer running on a Windows system, hold down the 'Alt' key and type 0176 on the number pad.

You can see how to do all the symbols if you go to START->ACCESSORIES->SYSTEM TOOLS->CHARACTER MAP on your computer.

/off topic
 
shocker said:
If yer running on a Windows system, hold down the 'Alt' key and type 0176 on the number pad.

You can see how to do all the symbols if you go to START->ACCESSORIES->SYSTEM TOOLS->CHARACTER MAP on your computer.

/off topic

Just switched both Puters to Mac, love em, but they are an adjustment for sure.

Tech - The "black box" for the trailer hitch wiring is behind the passenger side back panel and very easy to get to, pop a few panel pins and gently pull back, its laying right there. If there is a hot lead there all the time, no need to run another line all the way from the battery back there right?
 
Correct. I hope b/c this is my plan. You'll need to ground it.

TJK
 
OK, panel is off. FSM has nothing much to say about the trailer lights, suspect they're not factory. So I need to ask another question. The small black box in the wiring loom in the passenger rear quarter panel, that's the trailer lights, correct? And I can tap into the red wire off that box. Sound about right?

Thanks,

TJK
 
Never mind me. I can see now that the black box is the trailer wiring.

Off to t-ball practice, back to this another day.

TJK
 
Doesn't seem to be any constant power back there in the rear quarter. I tapped into the hot off the trailer wiring, only works when the brakes are on. Tapped into the red wire on the main spool coming from the front, nothing, didn't bother to see if it worked with the brakes on.

I can see all the wiring under the driver's seat but can't tell where to splice in.

Guess I'll pull the center console when I get some time and go that route.

TJK
 
Todd,
I don't have my electronic version of the EWD here at work but there has to be a +12v back at the trailer harness since the brake lights work with the ignition off. Typical Toyota wiring switches the ground to complete the circuit.

-B-
 
All this poking around and looking for wires...you could've wired up a dedicated 12v outlet back there already :flipoff2:
 
Kaderabek said:
Doesn't seem to be any constant power back there in the rear quarter. I tapped into the hot off the trailer wiring, only works when the brakes are on. Tapped into the red wire on the main spool coming from the front, nothing, didn't bother to see if it worked with the brakes on.

I can see all the wiring under the driver's seat but can't tell where to splice in.

Guess I'll pull the center console when I get some time and go that route.

TJK

TJK - I'm sure you are already aware of this, but I THINK if you are checking those wires AFTER the black box for the trailer wiring you wouldnt be able to find the hot lead, but you need to check the wires BEFORE they get there. Checking after would yield power with the brakes applied. As stated before, I am a wiring moron so if this is beyond basic flame away, I can take it. Just trying to help. My Toyota black-box trailering harness went bad and I spent the better part of 3 hours messing with it and wiring in a Hoppy brand one from Fleet Farm to fix it.
:cheers:
 
NorCalDoug said:
All this poking around and looking for wires...you could've wired up a dedicated 12v outlet back there already :flipoff2:

But it will be so much cooler to find a way that would be more stock like;) :cool:
 
Beowulf said:
Todd,
I don't have my electronic version of the EWD here at work but there has to be a +12v back at the trailer harness since the brake lights work with the ignition off. Typical Toyota wiring switches the ground to complete the circuit.

-B-

Yes, the brake lights work with the ignition off. But only with your foot on the brake. I have a good ground, and the outlet worked when I had my foot on the brake.

TJK
 
NorCalDoug said:
All this poking around and looking for wires...you could've wired up a dedicated 12v outlet back there already :flipoff2:

I only have about 30 minutes invested so far.

By dedicated you mean run the hot wire up to the battery? It's an option but I hate the firewall.

TJK
 
Montana Cruiser said:
TJK - I'm sure you are already aware of this, but I THINK if you are checking those wires AFTER the black box for the trailer wiring you wouldnt be able to find the hot lead, but you need to check the wires BEFORE they get there. Checking after would yield power with the brakes applied. As stated before, I am a wiring moron so if this is beyond basic flame away, I can take it. Just trying to help. My Toyota black-box trailering harness went bad and I spent the better part of 3 hours messing with it and wiring in a Hoppy brand one from Fleet Farm to fix it.
:cheers:


There's only a red wire on one side of that box. The in side. The other side has wires for left and right signals, brakes, and license plate light, and they trace to the harness on the outside.

I'm an electrical idiot (well, idiot in general) but I really can't make sense of why there would be a constant power source to the tail lights etc. anyway.

TJK
 
just had mine apart to install a constant-hot 3-plug cig dealio....no constant hot wires under there...there is a HD switched one (3 wires in it) under the center console that I shoulda piped into for the CB, but was too lazy...ended up grounding the cig with the other grounds under there and running a constant hot to a fuse off the primary block (fused inline as well)

1996, BTW.... :beer: (#4...)
 
Kaderabek said:
I only have about 30 minutes invested so far.

By dedicated you mean run the hot wire up to the battery? It's an option but I hate the firewall.

TJK
Once I had all the goods (wire, small fuse block, 2 12V outlets), the entire job took about 45 minutes.

Access through the firewall was simple. I simply cut one of the spare "nipples" off the grommet on the passenger side and went right through.
 
woody said:
just had mine apart to install a constant-hot 3-plug cig dealio....no constant hot wires under there...there is a HD switched one (3 wires in it) under the center console that I shoulda piped into for the CB, but was too lazy...ended up grounding the cig with the other grounds under there and running a constant hot to a fuse off the primary block (fused inline as well)

1996, BTW.... :beer: (#4...)

No constant under where? The console?

TJK
 
there are 3 "unused" plugs under the console....none have a constant hot....all have a switched hot.

4 phillips screws for the shifter console, plus unscrewing the t-case knob and shifting into D to clear the shifter itself.....three 10mm or 12mm bolts to pull the armrest console....

bring a shop vac too...lotsa "stuff" down there, made about $3 as well....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom