Builds Chicken's GX (1 Viewer)

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Well started the axel job on Tues morning. Got everything removed other than the axel itself (just trying to get a jump on the job for the time).
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When I pulled the two 19mm bolts out of the bottom of the knuckle, one of them felt tight coming out.
Today I put the Napa axel in and started buttoning everything up on the drivers side so I could start the passenger side.

Got one of the bolts back in, but the one that was tight coming out, was tight going in.... Im sure I could force it, but dont wanna do that! Literally no place local (Napa, O'Reilly, Grainger, Ace Hardware) has a 16mm x 1.50 tap/die. I wanna clean the threads up just for peace of mind. So, Amazon it is, it should be here tomorrow.

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Also, the new axel seems to have a sliiiiiight amount of play going in/out of the transmission.. I got the splines lined up, and got it in. It cannot go any further into the trans, but it can pull back 1/8 inch or so, and could see a drip of fluid.. not sure whats what.. ima tap the hole above and throw the wheel on and see if it leaks at all driving out of the garage.
 
The tap/die set was supposed to arrive Friday, it didnt show up until Sat night. I got this one: https://amzn.to/3Ph03GN
Yesterday I went out and cleaned up the threads on the knuckle and the bolt's threads. After that, I could freely install the bolt into the knuckle by hand :)

So I buttoned everything on the drivers side back together yesterday. Today ill be doing the passenger side.
 
From getting the tools out and jacking the car up, to job done, just under 2hrs.

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Passenger side was harder to get out of the trans.
I also jacked up the lower control arm so the knuckle didnt pull on the threads from those same bolts I had an issue with on the drivers side. Zero issues this time around with the threads.

Cleaned some dirt/grease off from various spots under there. After the job was done I pumped some grease into both drive shafts too.

This was the first time ive laid down puppy potty training mats while working on any car.. idk why I didnt do it sooner lolol.
 
A slide hammer will let those pop out of the front axle pretty easily (next time you end up doing them :)).
 
Rednexus said:
A slide hammer will let those pop out of the front axle pretty easily (next time you end up doing them :)).
Click to expand...
Yeah probably a tool worth buying lol.

I used a punch and BFH to knock around the grooves for the OEM ones.
The NAPA ones do not have anything like that (all smooth)
 
Rednexus said:
A slide hammer will let those pop out of the front axle pretty easily (next time you end up doing them :)).
Click to expand...
where would the slide hammer attach to? wrap around the inner joint housing?
 
The OEM axle has a machined lip on the inner cup. I use a big hose clamp to attach the hammer to the lip.
 
zzyzx85 said:
where would the slide hammer attach to? wrap around the inner joint housing?
Click to expand...
I linked the video I watched here:
That is where he talks and shows the grooves for the slide hammer to use (though it didnt work for him in the video lol)
 
oh right. yeah, i heard of this method but it doesn't seem too practical.
 
I'll take a picture next time I replace one. With the "finger" attachment on the hammer and a hose clamp, it's just a couple of hits and the CV pops right out. I used to pry them out with screwdrivers which was much harder.

When installing I hit the threaded end of the shaft with a brass hammer to seat it into the front diff. It usually takes a few whacks. The brass hammer won't mess up the threads like a steel hammer will.
 
Rednexus said:
I'll take a picture next time I replace one. With the "finger" attachment on the hammer and a hose clamp, it's just a couple of hits and the CV pops right out. I used to pry them out with screwdrivers which was much harder.

When installing I hit the threaded end of the shaft with a brass hammer to seat it into the front diff. It usually takes a few whacks. The brass hammer won't mess up the threads like a steel hammer will.
Click to expand...
I've also taken a bit of axle grease and put around the snap ring to hold it in place when installing. Sometimes when you try to push it into the diff, the ring hangs up. The axle grease will keep it centered on the end of the shaft allowing it to go in easier.
 
^^ Yuup I did the same thing to retain the ring in the downward position

Rednexus said:
I'll take a picture next time I replace one. With the "finger" attachment on the hammer and a hose clamp, it's just a couple of hits and the CV pops right out. I used to pry them out with screwdrivers which was much harder.

When installing I hit the threaded end of the shaft with a brass hammer to seat it into the front diff. It usually takes a few whacks. The brass hammer won't mess up the threads like a steel hammer will.
Click to expand...
I also put the 35mm nut on backwards, so the flat mating surface faces outward and spin it on until it is flush with the end of the shaft. More contact patch tohit and no messing up threads.
 
Well, wife and I took a trip to the cabin last weekend. A bit of snow in Tahoe but it is still very lackluster.

Car looked terrible from the snow/dirt/sand on the roads. Have some nice rain this afternoon so I figured Id roll the car out and wash it lol. Shorts and barefoot... had some funny looks as folks drove by lol. Figured the rain would help clean and then I dont have to worry about drying it off hahaha.

We took the wife's Telluride up a few weeks ago, and didnt wash it, so I did hers at the same time today.

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With summer approaching here in NorCal, the next "mod" is in the "awaiting parts" phase.

Going to relocate the rear AC controls from behind the center console up and under the stereo.
While ive got stuff torn apart, Im going to remove the rear audio controls and install a 3d printed plate so I can install a couple USB ports.

The printed plate is from a member of the GXOR FB group: Here it is.
The USB ports that will go into the plate are these from Amazon. Having a USBa and USBc port for each. This will be nice when the kids are older and need to charge stuff on trips.
I have not seen any printed plates to close the area up after you remove the rear AC controls... so I might just try to bend some thin gauge sheet metal to make a block off plate and wrap it to match everything else ive wrapped.

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Yesterday I started everything. Removed the entire center console. You have to do this to get the wire harness from the rear AC controls unwound from a larger harness and bring it back towards the front dashboard.
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The AC wires are tucked into the plastic wire cover you need to untape and remove some plastic retaining clips (I think there were 4).
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I also tested all the wires that run to the back of the center console. There were only 2 power wires, one to the AC controls, and the other to the small light inside the center console (that most people probably dont even know there is one because their bulbs have burnt out lol) but that one is only active with the headlights on.. I want constant power when the key is on for the USB ports.

At some point I plan on putting in an aftermarket stereo and when I do, ill convert the cigarette outlet next to the ashtray as a USB port to plug into the stereo. Knowing this future plan let me use the power wires to the cig lighter as my power for the back. Made some blade connector wire harness (crimped onto the wire, then solder the tip of the wire down, then heat shrink it all together) to plug into the cig connector and ran it through with the factory harness to the rear.
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Also tested before running the wires back through the loom and taping it back
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Need to do some cleaning before I start putting the main center console pieces back. Then have to make the cut in the trim to fit/mount the AC controls.
 
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