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So its primarily bolted down with the trans pan bolts, right?

Yup, the pan bolts keep the fore and aft direction in check and the side bolt keeps the side to side movement in check.
 
Got the frame boxed in, the rear bumper tied in, trimmed down the motor mounts, a few other loose ends on the motor done, and then put the drive train in the frame. Went to put the tub back on....Then I found out HOW BAD the added cases interfered with the floor pan!!!!!!!!!!!!!


FAAAAAAAWK!:crybaby::bang:

This WERE going pretty smooth...

Where I HAD to cut the floor pan out, obviously cuts RIGHT IN to where the fuel tank sits. So I MAY be looking at having to get an aftermarket fuel cell to either re locate, or (the preferred option) level out the floor pan and find one to fit under the seat in the old location.

Any recommendations!?
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The frame stuff...
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I feel your pain... I went throught the same process with my dual cases and my floor pan.

Got any pics of how your came out?
I guess that Ill have to put the seat brackets back in, and see where everything lines up. Its been so long since Ive seen it with seat in, that I dont quite remember HOW it all looks once in. From that point, I could assess where the tank sits and work from there.
This little snag may take me SOME TIME! I knew that there would be clearance issues there, but I really didnt think it would go as far over as the gas tank slot.

How do you do a body lift on these things. That actually may help the situation some.
 
That looks great man. I wish I could have taken the tub off of mine and boxed the frame.

On the gas tank, you seem to have solid sheetmetal skills, so maybe you could do something similar to MrQtipp did. I know it would be alot of work, but it would save you some scratch.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/204456-rocks-rolls-22.html#post4483930

Thanks for the link to that "E". Holy christ. Right now, Id spend a few bucks to make this a simpler process. This could potentially take a LOOOONG time to get squared away. I just DO NOT wanna burn a bunch of time on this in light of all the other crap that I need to do, but....if I do, I do. Im not even sure how to begin figuring this.

My first instinct is to check out the summit aluminum tank. Its square, 2in less in all directions and 10 in deep. Im thinking that it COULD work and allow for more clearance around the trans hump, and allow me to level off the floor pan where the tank sits. Plus, Its a 20 gal tank. Ill definitely wanna make the trans hump removable for access.

Hopefully, Ill think of some way to do it where its clean, not too time consuming and accessable, but I doubt it.

I guess that Ill have to figure my linkages now too that Im thinking of it....
 
A body lift is very simple in an FJ40. You will need to space up the radiator support, but other than that, it's pretty obvious.

Will this be ready for the Wentworth trip in May? I'm dying to see it on the trail.
 
A body lift is very simple in an FJ40. You will need to space up the radiator support, but other than that, it's pretty obvious.

Will this be ready for the Wentworth trip in May? I'm dying to see it on the trail.

NO CHANCE on making that trip. Im thinking about going and hitchin a ride with someone for the trail though if there might be an open seat....Itd be fun to drive the taco back there, and camp with you yahoos and ride along. I had a BLAST last year.
Im hoping that It'll be somewhere CLOSE by around June/ July if not wheeling and doing shake down runs. Well see though. This little crap is KILLING the time frame. Every little bit that I go, I find these smaller projects that demand a lot of attention and a lot of fab. The club is doing Fordice in Sept....I WANT REALLY BAD to be able to do that one.

What is the best method for lifting the body? I had seen that broken parts had some rubber tube type stuff that could be cut into pucks that looked as if it would work well? I picked up the body mount kit from energy suspension, but its not a body lift and wont help at all.
Id like to run the stock tank, but I just DONT see it happening.
 
Can anyone see a reason that I could NOT run the fuel cell under the driver side seat?
I went out and put the seats back in to see what I could fudge out...since the drive train is positioned on the PS, Id have more space to the DS....Ill have to re build new seat brackets anyway....
Would a 15 gal fuel tank be enough? I could conceivably squeeze a 20 in there, but it would be tight. I know that more fuel is better, but....

Thanks,

Im obsessing now.
 
Can anyone see a reason that I could NOT run the fuel cell under the driver side seat?
I went out and put the seats back in to see what I could fudge out...since the drive train is positioned on the PS, Id have more space to the DS....Ill have to re build new seat brackets anyway....
Would a 15 gal fuel tank be enough? I could conceivably squeeze a 20 in there, but it would be tight. I know that more fuel is better, but....

Thanks,

Im obsessing now.
No reason at all.
Also take a look at this thread, BUILD your own Gas Tank

On the bright side if you build a new seat frame you can move the seats back a few inches. I'd love to do that with mine it would make driving a lot more comfortable. As tall as you are the extra leg room will be almost a requirement.
 
Speaking of seats, what are you using? I was using some seats out of a TJ, which were fairly comfortable, but in light of Bamableach's thread about the deal on the Racetrims on Pirate I just picked up a set. $340 to your door (I bought the grey high backs) is an incredible price for a nice set of suspension seats and they have great reviews. If you can stand the Tan ones, only $275/set!

Again, I am really good at spending your money for you :D:D:D

Suspension Seat Sale - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
 
I just replaced some of the body mounts on my 60 with the boat roller stuff. The 40 mounts are different enough that I would not go that route. Actually, I would not do a BL at all if I were you. I'd just put in a fuel cell like Woody's. They can go directly behind the seat all nicely protected. You would lose the rear heater, but is that really a big deal?

Relocate your battery under the Passenger seat, and use the driver seat area for storage of a toolbag and a tow strap.
(and a fire extingusher)
 
On the "OTHER" site I saw wilson cannt remember which as there are two had a tank that went under both seats it was flat on the bottom and had baffles to help with off camber. If your gettinng a new tank might check it out more fuel cap too.
 

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