Builds Chicago builds a 40

[CruisinFJ60]

kinda seems to me that the flat stock would have some bounce and flex to it even tho it is 1/2". i dunno prolly more solid than im picturing i guess.

also what did you use for a busing in the through bolt of the DOM? or did you?

 

[chicago]

The welds look good, i doubt you'll have an issue with them...

Thanks brother...
I hope not! That would bring the suck!

 

[rusty_tlc]

Got it figured and well under way.
So I stopped by the local steel shop (AGAIN) and said that I needed a piece of tubing with and ID of at least 1/2 in. He showed me some 1 1/4, 3/8 wall DOM....FAWK is that SH*T EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!
Well, the pics will describe it better than I can.
The frame angles out where this all sits, so the bracket is not square, but the DOM is. Im pretty excited about it. Glad that I at least got it figured out with something that I LIKE and TRUST. The other stuff that I had attempted just DIDNT sit right with me.

Very nice, very nice indeed.

Nice looking vise grip clamps ya got there buddy.

Can I have my C-Clamps back now?

 

[chicago]

kinda seems to me that the flat stock would have some bounce and flex to it even tho it is 1/2". i dunno prolly more solid than im picturing i guess.

also what did you use for a busing in the through bolt of the DOM? or did you?

Absolutely, the 1/2 in will bounce like a mofo. That is why Im gonna run a 1x2 in gusset on the bottom of it.
No bushing in the DOM. I just have some washers in there to provide some relief between the bracket and the tubing. Didnt want it too tight going in and out.

 

[chicago]

Very nice, very nice indeed.

Nice looking vise grip clamps ya got there buddy.

Can I have my C-Clamps back now?

UMMMMM.....NO!

Do you really need em? If so, Ill get em back to you.
I have actually been using them..

 

[rusty_tlc]

UMMMMM.....NO!

Do you really need em? If so, Ill get em back to you.
I have actually been using them..

I was just yanking your chain.
They would just be hanging up on the garage wall at my place.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I don't know the pros and cons of the bar stock that you are using. I't looks like it will work, but without the rigidity of box or tube. With that said, remember that Iron Pig Offroad uses 1/2 stock for their 80 series crossmember/skidplate and it seems to hold up ok.

Why did you decide not to use DOM with bushings at the frame attachment? That would give things more room to move around and you can get the tube sections with the bushings from Ruffstuff very reasonably.

If you are still using flux core those welds are awesome. I wish I could do as well.

 

[chicago]

I don't know the pros and cons of the bar stock that you are using. I't looks like it will work, but without the rigidity of box or tube. With that said, remember that Iron Pig Offroad uses 1/2 stock for their 80 series crossmember/skidplate and it seems to hold up ok.

Why did you decide not to use DOM with bushings at the frame attachment? That would give things more room to move around and you can get the tube sections with the bushings from Ruffstuff very reasonably.

If you are still using flux core those welds are awesome. I wish I could do as well.

Andy,
Im thinking that the gusset Ill be adding to the bottom of the 1/2 in plate (1x2x1/4 wall) will stiffen up that x member nicely.
As for the hard mount at the frame...Ive talked to a few people (boots, Brokenparts, Jack and bustanutly) and all have eluded to the idea that you do not so much want the flex relief at the frame (as in rubber/ urathane bushings), and much as you want the vibration dampening. From what I gather if you ran the bushings at the frame rails and a hard mount under the t case there would be a greater chance for breakage at the housing with a LOT of frame flex. I am also to understand that when building the x member the goal is to minimize frame flex and protect the cases. Jack also did mention that "Its not rocket science..." essentially saying that Im over thinking this whole process...Of course he is RIGHT on that.
From what I can tell, you want the mount to be the pivot and the rest to move AROUND that? Seems to make sense to me anyway.

The welds...LOYAL to the flux core despite its messy after appearance and thanks for the props on the quality! I make EVERY effort to make them the BEST that I can and its SOOOOO nice to hear compliments on that. Being self taught in that skill, there is always a LITTLE shred of insecurity I have regarding my ability. Nothing, THANKFULLY, has broken on me yet!

BTW, I wrote a note to myself re. you shims. I keep forgetting to re order that No. 5 shim and get that back to you! ill do that today.

 

[chicago]

I was just yanking your chain.
They would just be hanging up on the garage wall at my place.

I cant see your face, so I wasnt sure...
They DO come in very handy. Ive GOTTA get me some big ass clamps like those.

 

[fyresq]

How much cosmetic surgery are you going to need to do to the floorpan to get the body to fit?

 

[chicago]

How much cosmetic surgery are you going to need to do to the floorpan to get the body to fit?

AAAAAAH...Not too sure!
Im a little worried about that to be honest. Most definitely at the back of the trans tunnel to fit over the top of the 203. Once I get the x member built I can then put the tub back on and see.
Im hoping that I wont have to do much, and if I have to do a bit of a body lift I will vs. doing more sheet metal work. I really HATE sheet metal work!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I really HATE sheet metal work!

But you are so good at it. I would not sweat this part of it. I'm still worried about your rear driveshaft.

 

[chicago]

But you are so good at it. I would not sweat this part of it. I'm still worried about your rear driveshaft.

How come?
What is yours at right now, out of curiosity.
With just pre lim figuring, I think itll be comparable to what rusty has with a little massaging of the rear axle.
Unless im missing something which is entirely possible.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

How come?
What is yours at right now, out of curiosity.
With just pre lim figuring, I think itll be comparable to what rusty has with a little massaging of the rear axle.
Unless im missing something which is entirely possible.

Which truck? I don't have a comparable drivetrain. Neither the 40 or the 60 have a drive line issue since I don't have a doubler on the 40 or an autobox.

I think the marlin Toybox is surprisingly compact with the adapters. The 203 is long, and with the adapters it's significantly longer, and with the auto box, it's much longer. I'm hoping you'll make it work well.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Which truck? I don't have a comparable drivetrain. Neither the 40 or the 60 have a drive line issue since I don't have a doubler on the 40 or an autobox.

I think the marlin Toybox is surprisingly compact with the adapters. The 203 is long, and with the adapters it's significantly longer, and with the auto box, it's much longer. I'm hoping you'll make it work well.

We had my truck there as a reference when we were positioning the drive train. His rear output is roughly at the same position as mine.
He will definitely need a double cardon rear DL. But it should work.
I was really worried about my shorty at first but after a couple of years I don't even think about it.

 

[chicago]

Which truck? I don't have a comparable drivetrain. Neither the 40 or the 60 have a drive line issue since I don't have a doubler on the 40 or an autobox.

I think the marlin Toybox is surprisingly compact with the adapters. The 203 is long, and with the adapters it's significantly longer, and with the auto box, it's much longer. I'm hoping you'll make it work well.

I was wondering what your 40 rear shaft length was.
I know its gonna be different, but I was curious as to where yours sits and its length with your set up.
When I measured the length from center to center with the stock set up I had, the shaft length was 20 in. It doesnt seem that with some rear axle tweaking Ill be that far off. At least Im hoping. Really though it doesnt matter cuz at this point there is only ONE way to find out once and for all if its gonna work.

Im curious as to the length of you rear DS for my own reference.

BTW, I ordred that shim from Toyota yesterday and should be here by Friday or Monday the latest. Seems that there are only SEVEN of the Mark 5 shims in the NATION!!! I had them check on the wear pads for the leaf springs...only 24! It was kinda funny while on the phone with the parts guy, I had to lead him to the shim and its location on the t case. Then, they couldnt figure out the thickness of the shim, I had to go look up the dimensions for him in my FSM as the apparently do not have those in their computer, nor the FSM for that rig....

 

[rusty_tlc]

I was wondering what your 40 rear shaft length was.
I know its gonna be different, but I was curious as to where yours sits and its length with your set up.
When I measured the length from center to center with the stock set up I had, the shaft length was 20 in. It doesnt seem that with some rear axle tweaking Ill be that far off. At least Im hoping. Really though it doesnt matter cuz at this point there is only ONE way to find out once and for all if its gonna work.

Im curious as to the length of you rear DS for my own reference.

BTW, I ordred that shim from Toyota yesterday and should be here by Friday or Monday the latest. Seems that there are only SEVEN of the Mark 5 shims in the NATION!!! I had them check on the wear pads for the leaf springs...only 24! It was kinda funny while on the phone with the parts guy, I had to lead him to the shim and its location on the t case. Then, they couldnt figure out the thickness of the shim, I had to go look up the dimensions for him in my FSM as the apparently do not have those in their computer, nor the FSM for that rig....

That's when working with somebody like Cdan is nice. The guys at Reno Toy insist that my 98 LC has a straight six because the 80 is the first model that comes up for 98. Then they get all pissy because you didn't start with the freakin VIN number. I kinda feel like I shouldn't have to know my VIN number to buy an oil filter.

 

[bustanutley]

I'm still worried about your rear driveshaft.

No s***, my rear shaft is not happy and it is 29" long. High dollar CV would fix the issue, as will the lowering that will take place with V8

 

[chicago]

No s***, my rear shaft is not happy and it is 29" long. High dollar CV would fix the issue, as will the lowering that will take place with V8

What is happening with yours busta?

 

[chicago]

That's when working with somebody like Cdan is nice. The guys at Reno Toy insist that my 98 LC has a straight six because the 80 is the first model that comes up for 98. Then they get all pissy because you didn't start with the freakin VIN number. I kinda feel like I shouldn't have to know my VIN number to buy an oil filter.

I agree...I should have hit up c dan for that part. I KINDA understand where theyre at though. Most of what they deal with is newer cars in this disposable society we live in. It just so happens that I have a manual for that particular t case, where Im sure they do not. All they have are the computers to look stuff up on.
I was a little bent that I had to look up the thickness of that shim though, and they tried to make it like I was an idiot because I didnt KNOW it off hand. I got a "HUFF" over the line. You know the one.

Ah well. Live and learn!