Builds Chef's FJ45LWB-PU

[theSherpa]

Once all the parts are in my hot little hands, it's time to translate ideas and parts into a thing.
First, locate the hole. The well covers the most area under the part of the tank between the baffles, so the size of the mat means it should go there, but the fuel sender also lives there, so that's a constraint to the location of the pump hanger ... gotta keep the float at the end of the sender arm away from the hanger, yet keep the mat centered between the baffles and fully at the bottom of the well. That pretty much determines the location:

4.5" hole, centered between the baffle rivets (much more easily seen on this tank), about 5.5" from sender hole edge to hanger hole edge, for the sender we used, which was new and supplied by Erik, but is a bit different from the original, in particular has a shorter arm:

 

[theSherpa]

Ed the metal whisperer tacked in the nut ring (ring they supply to go in tank under tank surface that pump hanger plate screws screw into.
This is what the sender float at its closest point to the pump hanger (top of travel, full tank) looks like, and the 1-3/4" clearance we have from hole edge to pump's outlet hose that runs up the inside of the pump hanger to the plate at the top:

 

[theSherpa]

This is what the pump mounted on the hanger looks like mounted inside the tank, from a endoscope down the sender hole:

 

[theSherpa]

The tank is 9-3/8" deep at the center of our pump hanger hole, I cut off the pump hanger about 1.5" shy of that and used submersible EFI rated hose (a bit is supplied with the kit) cut to length and a big zip tie to locate the pump/adapter/Hydramat about 1/8" above the surface of the tank. Not shown is return line ... we located its end to dump about 1" above the mat, as recommended. Also not shown are the magnets we screwed into those holes in the mat to hold it securely to the bottom of the tank ... they are VERY strong and made it really hard to get the mat located exactly where I wanted, because they didn't want to slide across the red tank liner coating

That's the tank drain in the middle of those screw heads, this shows the gap between mat and tank bottom surface.

This is the magnet kit:

 

[theSherpa]

So, this is a view of the hanger plate, the black mark is front-of-truck, toward the sender hole. Had to modify this a bit to keep the pump bits well away from the sender float/arm. The hex bolt heads are where the pump wire ports below them originally were, and the supply and return 90 degree fittings are pointed toward the center of the cab where we'll locate the bulkhead fittings in the cab floor for the fuel supply and return lines:

That empty "vent" hole is filled with one of these, bought separately from Tanks, Inc., a vent line check valve so if the truck turns over it doesn't puke fuel out the vent line:

 

[theSherpa]

This is what it looks like now, all buttoned up, with 1/4" NPT to -6 AN adapters installed in the supply and return fittings, the sender installed, the vent check valve installed, and the wires for the pump emerging from the wire ports ... sorry I didn't get a picture of the assembled pump in the hanger, chair dog ate my homework:

 

[theSherpa]

So, started out expecting to follow Nolen's lead, use Cam's kit ... but ended up building it with some tech that should help keep the fuel pump inlet wet no matter how off-camber the truck gets, the same reason Erik decided to use the PA pump with it's little bathtub reservoir. We'll use the GPA setup on another rig. These Walbro (now TI Automotive!) pumps are in lots of OEM vehicles, are widely used in the aftermarket, are in every parts store ... and apparently are widely counterfeited, so be careful who you buy them from (I'm looking at you, Amazon)!

I learned some cool stuff along the way.

I'm sure I left something out, so...

 

[2fpower]

great info there @theSherpa

 

[Chef]

Fitting the doors. All new seals and window cranks and door handles, etc.
They came out great!!!

 

[47coeman]

A thing of beauty

 

[Chef]

Remember the new old stock 4 wheel drive engaged indicator switch we found?
That works, along with the rest of the wiring harness Erik built.
Pretty cool.

 

[Chef]

The minutiae of resto-modding an old truck:
Modifying an old heater cable to have the proper travel to open and close a new and different heater shutoff valve

 

[middlecalf]

Great idea! More info on that valve (please ), and how’s it mount to... the cowl?

 

[Chef]

I don't think we're going to mount it to the cowl. I think it will free float in a short length of heater hose between the rear of the valve cover and the firewall.
Things could change tho.
As for the valve, Erik sourced it so I dunno...

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Something arrived for chef's fj40.
Its frageele.

 

[theSherpa]

It’s a major award.

 

[theSherpa]

We had to effectively shorten the cable sheath by shoving it farther up the long ferrule on the handle end to get more travel for the cable inside it ... that valve has about an inch of useful travel required to fully open and close the valve, and the cable only had about half that much travel stock. Worked good, easier than trimming the sheath (maybe). The sheath had pulled out of the long ferrule, so we were futzing with it anyway.

steve

 

[Chef]

Something arrived for chef's fj40.
Its frageele.
View attachment 2548884

View attachment 2548885

View attachment 2548886

View attachment 2548889

That truck gonna be a whole other thread at some point...

 

[2fpower]

Erik -- I picked up the mirror arms, 8790260030. What mirror are you using?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

3 styles. Round, rectangle and oval.
I will provide pictures of each and PN's and you can decide. Put round on Alans, Mine are going to be rectangle and the oval are Convex.