Have you every wanted an oil filter relocation but just couldn't justify the $40-60 it costs for a kit???
I was pretty unhappy with where the stock oil filter sat in the engine bay, it was a little too hidden and hard to get to so I set out to figure out how to relocate it.
Here's the stock filter setup from the bottom side.
Required tools:
Ratcheting box-end 12mm
Deep well 12mm socket/wrench
Adjustable pliers (knipex)
Block of ice (not req'd but makes removal of oil filter housing easier)
angle grinder or hacksaw
30mm socket
3/8 NPT tap
Hose barbs & hose
Fresh oil & coolant
The first step is to remove the oil filter housing from the side of the block. You could just remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut but they're a little difficult to reach, use a 30mm socket to remove the oil cooler bit for better access. If you want to do it the easy way, like I did, scroll to the end for a quick tip.
After the housing is off the engine/separated you'll have to cut it in half. A band saw would be preferred but we used a grinder to make a cut perpendicular to the cross drilled bores. Below you can see the block side, filter side, and the bit you don't need in the middle.
After you have the two separate halves, you'll want to tap out the bores to 3/8npt. The handy thing is the tap drill size for 3/8 npt is 9/16" (.5625"), and the size of the bore as machined is ~.575" (something like 14.6mm, maybe it was a 14.5 on a wallered out chuck). Being the bore size that it is, it's just about perfect for starting the 3/8" npt tap. You really only need like 3 threads to get the fitting in and sealing, don't worry if it's not perfectly straight as you'll be putting hose on it anyways which can bend.
After all 4 holes are tapped out, you can install the barbs. I went with a 3/8npt to 1/2" hose barb, because it was the largest barb I could find with that pipe thread. I also installed a 45° on one and a 90° on the other to avoid pointing straight into the steering rack.
My oil pressure sender also didn't work, so I put a schrader valve in the pressure port so I could hook a tire pressure gauge up to it to check my oil pressure.
Here's both halves, with the connecting hoses, and assorted hardware. Note that for easier serviceability I cut down one of the bosses and used a shorter socket-head screw instead, the longer bolt that is supposed to go in there can interfere with the steering rack.
And here's with the original housing for comparison's sake
Seeing as it was cold out and I don't really tow anything I decided to bypass the oil cooler coolant circuit. Additionally I thought it felt a little under powered so I took the cooling fan off to get a few more HPs out of her. Simple enough job, get a length of hose and a nipple to jumper the two sides of the coolant loop, remove the cooling fan, stack some washers on the studs, and put the nuts back on.
Here's an in-progress pic, before i put the fan nuts back on and before i put the schrader valve in the pressure. Extra credit if you can tell me why the pressure sender stopped working.
The last fab step is to route the houses and mount the distal half of the housing in a convenient location that makes it easy to service the filter. You could go and make a bracket and weld some tabs onto the housing to have it bolted down, but zip ties do just as good of a job with less work.
Oh yeah, and if you get the 1/2" PS hose like I did, it may not fit on a 1/2" barb perfectly so you might have to double clamp it lest you get a bath in a quart of warm oil.
Finally, fill it up, get moving, and enjoy your cheap DIY mod!!!
Here's how I removed my oil filter housing.
And a few more pics just for fun.
If you made it this far and don't realize this is all BS, SHAME.
Also, get a skidplate!
I was pretty unhappy with where the stock oil filter sat in the engine bay, it was a little too hidden and hard to get to so I set out to figure out how to relocate it.
Here's the stock filter setup from the bottom side.
Required tools:
Ratcheting box-end 12mm
Deep well 12mm socket/wrench
Adjustable pliers (knipex)
Block of ice (not req'd but makes removal of oil filter housing easier)
angle grinder or hacksaw
30mm socket
3/8 NPT tap
Hose barbs & hose
Fresh oil & coolant
The first step is to remove the oil filter housing from the side of the block. You could just remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut but they're a little difficult to reach, use a 30mm socket to remove the oil cooler bit for better access. If you want to do it the easy way, like I did, scroll to the end for a quick tip.
After the housing is off the engine/separated you'll have to cut it in half. A band saw would be preferred but we used a grinder to make a cut perpendicular to the cross drilled bores. Below you can see the block side, filter side, and the bit you don't need in the middle.
After you have the two separate halves, you'll want to tap out the bores to 3/8npt. The handy thing is the tap drill size for 3/8 npt is 9/16" (.5625"), and the size of the bore as machined is ~.575" (something like 14.6mm, maybe it was a 14.5 on a wallered out chuck). Being the bore size that it is, it's just about perfect for starting the 3/8" npt tap. You really only need like 3 threads to get the fitting in and sealing, don't worry if it's not perfectly straight as you'll be putting hose on it anyways which can bend.
After all 4 holes are tapped out, you can install the barbs. I went with a 3/8npt to 1/2" hose barb, because it was the largest barb I could find with that pipe thread. I also installed a 45° on one and a 90° on the other to avoid pointing straight into the steering rack.
My oil pressure sender also didn't work, so I put a schrader valve in the pressure port so I could hook a tire pressure gauge up to it to check my oil pressure.
Here's both halves, with the connecting hoses, and assorted hardware. Note that for easier serviceability I cut down one of the bosses and used a shorter socket-head screw instead, the longer bolt that is supposed to go in there can interfere with the steering rack.
And here's with the original housing for comparison's sake
Seeing as it was cold out and I don't really tow anything I decided to bypass the oil cooler coolant circuit. Additionally I thought it felt a little under powered so I took the cooling fan off to get a few more HPs out of her. Simple enough job, get a length of hose and a nipple to jumper the two sides of the coolant loop, remove the cooling fan, stack some washers on the studs, and put the nuts back on.
Here's an in-progress pic, before i put the fan nuts back on and before i put the schrader valve in the pressure. Extra credit if you can tell me why the pressure sender stopped working.
The last fab step is to route the houses and mount the distal half of the housing in a convenient location that makes it easy to service the filter. You could go and make a bracket and weld some tabs onto the housing to have it bolted down, but zip ties do just as good of a job with less work.
Oh yeah, and if you get the 1/2" PS hose like I did, it may not fit on a 1/2" barb perfectly so you might have to double clamp it lest you get a bath in a quart of warm oil.
Finally, fill it up, get moving, and enjoy your cheap DIY mod!!!
Here's how I removed my oil filter housing.
And a few more pics just for fun.
If you made it this far and don't realize this is all BS, SHAME.
Also, get a skidplate!
