Changing your belts in 25 minutes

[93yotasr5]

I'd be interested to know if they stay lined up. I'd guess that even a VERY small difference in seating depth in the pulleys due to slight variations will add up after several thousand (or million) revolutions.

I was thinking the same thing. My guess is that they won’t. I will drive it around for a day and see if it changes at all and report back.

 

[ZackR]

They don't stay lined up forever. I did the same thing on mine and over time the lineup has phased out.

 

[cerealmaker]

Hi All- could use a little help, was trying to tighten my ac belt per the thread an looks like the adjustment bolt was Maybe installed backwards and now the bolt end is snapped off. Thoughts?

 

[rolliges]

double nut; un-screw

make sure locking nut (center of pulley) is loose first.

 

[moab_b2]

At least you have the nut well lubricated.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hi All- could use a little help, was trying to tighten my ac belt per the thread an looks like the adjustment bolt was Maybe installed backwards and now the bolt end is snapped off. Thoughts?

View attachment 1910151

View attachment 1910152

That looks to me like the nut fell off.

What year?

 

[cerealmaker]

It’s a 97. Thanks for the advice on the double nut - I’ll give that a try. As for the lube there’s a slight chance that I’m losing a little oil.... it’s making a really strange noise (trying to attach a sound file) intermittently. Can’t detect a pattern. Thought it might be the a/c belt but it makes it even with a/c off. (Assumed it would freewheel fine and only possibly slip when it got pulled in under load. ).

 

[BILT4ME]

Hi All- could use a little help, was trying to tighten my ac belt per the thread an looks like the adjustment bolt was Maybe installed backwards and now the bolt end is snapped off. Thoughts?

View attachment 1910151

View attachment 1910152

Maybe not.

Here is the P/N for a 93-97.

 

[cerealmaker]

Hoping this works!

 

[Travis 76]

If you have excess noise check your idler pulley, could have bad bearings. Also make sure the AC pulley is on the right direction. I recently found out that mine was on backwards. It was not spinning at all, just burning the belt. I have no idea how long it was like that. Glad I figured it out though.

 

[cerealmaker]

any thoughts on whether or not this noise (starts about 10 secs in) is belt related or i have bigger issues would be appreciated Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[rolliges]

Never heard that noise in mine but it sounds belt-like.

I'd recommend new Toyota belts; make sure AC pulley bearing is quiet (as recommended above); same with idler pulley (or remove); then make sure to properly tension belts (new belts should be pretty tight) use a gauge, not your thumb.

 

[cerealmaker]

Well good news is I have nice new belts and got the ac tensioner bolt replaced too. Bad news is it did not fix the noise. Guess I’ll take it out to the main discussion for ideas. Thanks all.

 

[sunrk]

Sump guard, splash guard, bash plate (or as toyota calls that sort of thing - an 'engine undercover') are great things if they're rugged enough.

Most time-consuming thing with changing belts is un-tensioning them. AC is the easy one (one bolt through pulley then just wind it down with the other long bolt), for the two belts driving the alternator and water pump loosening the alternator and moving it in towards the motor is where the time cost comes from due to how they need to be accesses. There are two bolts to loosen - 14 mm at the bottom mount, and 12 mm the secures the tensioner block at the top.

 

[paulzak]

There have been a few posts lately with folks changing the 3 drive belts and including the unneccessary steps of removing the battery, the battery tray, the lower engine bay skidplate and even the fan (!?).

Since I changed my belts today after a fruitless attempt to quiet them down, I thought I'd outline this simple procedure, which I'd have completed in 20 minutes had my neighbor walked over to say hello.

First, loosen the lock bolt in the center of the A/C tensioner pulley. It's a 14mm and I find it easiest reached standing with the left foot in the engine bay and right foot on the bumper. Lean way down with an open end wrench, bracing yourself on the valve cover with your left hand. Just loosening a revolution will do.
Then slide under the truck with a 14mm on about a foot of extension and find the 1" hole under the AC compressor. Directly in line with it is the tensioner bolt - a very long bolt. Turn it counter clockwise until it comes loose and then insert it for a revolution or two. It helps to remove the ratchet handle and use the extensions only once the bolt is finger tight so you don't drop the bolt. You just 'feel' that it's out of threads, then spin it back in a rev or two.

Loosen the alternator upper bolt it pivots on. Just a couple turns and I think it's a 12mm.
Then the lock nut on the alternator below it - again only a couple turns (12mm). This lock nut clamps down on a very long bolt whose threads you can see while loosening it, which is the tensioner bolt.
Loosen the tensioner bolt counterclockwise (12mm) until it literally comes out of the tensioner. Thread it back in a couple turns. This tensioner bolt is easily accessed with a socket wrench sans extension in a tight spot a stubby would speed things up. The 3 minutes of limited swinging here is what causes most folks to opt for the hour of removing the battery and battery tray.

So now to remove the belts. First, the A/C belt will nearly fall off, though it might help to reach deep down in with one hand to manually pull the tensioner pulley up (gravity will keep it holding the belt). Then the longer dual belts - forward one first. Pulling/pushing on the belts will help pivot the alternator all the way through its travel to ease reinstalling the new ones. Then roll the forward one off the alternator pulley and free it from the other pulleys. Loop it up over a couple fan blades, then rotate the fan and keep looping over more and more blades until you can simply pull it up and out between the fan and the radiator fins. There's plenty of room here - no need to remove the fan. Roll the rearward belt off and do the same.

Install the rearmost of the new dual belts, seating the the belt properly on the rear groove of the engine pullley and first putting it in the forward groove on the alternator pulley, then moving it to the alternator pulley's rear groove where it belongs. I mention this because trying to move it directly to the alternator's rear groove will cause tremendous tension in the belt. Better to do two small steps. Seating the 2nd of the dual alternator belts is more difficult because you can't spin the pulleys as easily to get it into the groove with the other belt adding some friction. If you can't get it fully on, note the direction the engine will spin (look at the fan blades, which push air rearward when the engine's running) and hook the belt as best you can such that when you bump the starter the engine will pull it the rest of the way. BE SURE YOU HAVE NO TOOLS OR PARTS WHERE THEY CAN CAUSE DAMAGE OR INJURY.

Tension the dual belts by tightening the tensioner bolt clockwise until you're satisfied. Snug up the tensioner lock bolt - no need to crank on it, just nice and snug. Tighten the bolt the alternator pivots on above it.

Now install the A/C belt. As before, it helps to reach way down with your left hand and manually lift the tensioner pulley to get enough slack and keep holding the pulley up while you're working it onto the A/C compressor pulley. Back under the truck to tighten the belt tensioner bolt. Right foot back in the engine bay and lean way down to tighten the tensioner's lock bolt. You're done. Now snicker to yourself about how others would still have 45 minutes work or more to reinstall the battery, battery box, skidplate and fan. With the 90 minutes you saved, wash the car and check all fluid levels, tire pressure and have a #6 while sitting on the tailgate while snickering a bit more....

DougM

Great write up. One additional thing about bumping the engine for the alternator belt. A 46 mm wrench also works for turning the crank. Gives a little more control and less drama.

 

[Bloomer]

Thanks for the great write up! Helped tremendously today changing all three belts. Haven’t read entire thread, but I’ll note removing the splash guard underneath the radiator made accessing the tension bolts for alternator and A/C much easier. It’s 4 bolts to remove it so not that much time added for the additional convenience. Also, a ratcheting 12mm wrench for the alternator tension bolt is well worth the expense if you don’t already have one. Can easily access the tension bolt from underneath and a ratcheting wrench makes quick work of loosening and tightening.

As for installing the new belts, loosen the alternator tension bolt as much as possible without removing it. Made a huge difference installing the new belts.

Took me much longer than 25 minutes, but write was great and very much appreciated!

 

[JayhawkFZJ80]

Thanks for the write up it helped a lot. Had some issues with a stubborn bolt, see yellow arrow, that wouldn't come loose.

New to wrenching so took it slow. Took off the skid plate and the battery out. Lots of room and visual access to see what I'm doing. Occasional breaks when bolts wouldn't budge and a run to Harbor Freight to buy ratchet wrenches was a life saver. Worth it.

Surprised that the belt was tight so soon after I started tightening the tension bolt. Makes sense though. Only happened to stop by chance and noticed the belt had very little give. Stopped immediately and began to close up shop. Everything seems great so far. I understand I need to keep an eye on the new belts as they stretch and perhaps tighten again is that right?

Thanks for the help again.

 

[Osoraku]

There have been a few posts lately with folks changing the 3 drive belts and including the unneccessary steps of removing the battery, the battery tray, the lower engine bay skidplate and even the fan (!?).

Since I changed my belts today after a fruitless attempt to quiet them down, I thought I'd outline this simple procedure, which I'd have completed in 20 minutes had my neighbor walked over to say hello.

First, loosen the lock bolt in the center of the A/C tensioner pulley. It's a 14mm and I find it easiest reached standing with the left foot in the engine bay and right foot on the bumper. Lean way down with an open end wrench, bracing yourself on the valve cover with your left hand. Just loosening a revolution will do.
Then slide under the truck with a 14mm on about a foot of extension and find the 1" hole under the AC compressor. Directly in line with it is the tensioner bolt - a very long bolt. Turn it counter clockwise until it comes loose and then insert it for a revolution or two. It helps to remove the ratchet handle and use the extensions only once the bolt is finger tight so you don't drop the bolt. You just 'feel' that it's out of threads, then spin it back in a rev or two.

Loosen the alternator upper bolt it pivots on. Just a couple turns and I think it's a 12mm.
Then the lock nut on the alternator below it - again only a couple turns (12mm). This lock nut clamps down on a very long bolt whose threads you can see while loosening it, which is the tensioner bolt.
Loosen the tensioner bolt counterclockwise (12mm) until it literally comes out of the tensioner. Thread it back in a couple turns. This tensioner bolt is easily accessed with a socket wrench sans extension in a tight spot a stubby would speed things up. The 3 minutes of limited swinging here is what causes most folks to opt for the hour of removing the battery and battery tray.

So now to remove the belts. First, the A/C belt will nearly fall off, though it might help to reach deep down in with one hand to manually pull the tensioner pulley up (gravity will keep it holding the belt). Then the longer dual belts - forward one first. Pulling/pushing on the belts will help pivot the alternator all the way through its travel to ease reinstalling the new ones. Then roll the forward one off the alternator pulley and free it from the other pulleys. Loop it up over a couple fan blades, then rotate the fan and keep looping over more and more blades until you can simply pull it up and out between the fan and the radiator fins. There's plenty of room here - no need to remove the fan. Roll the rearward belt off and do the same.

Install the rearmost of the new dual belts, seating the the belt properly on the rear groove of the engine pullley and first putting it in the forward groove on the alternator pulley, then moving it to the alternator pulley's rear groove where it belongs. I mention this because trying to move it directly to the alternator's rear groove will cause tremendous tension in the belt. Better to do two small steps. Seating the 2nd of the dual alternator belts is more difficult because you can't spin the pulleys as easily to get it into the groove with the other belt adding some friction. If you can't get it fully on, note the direction the engine will spin (look at the fan blades, which push air rearward when the engine's running) and hook the belt as best you can such that when you bump the starter the engine will pull it the rest of the way. BE SURE YOU HAVE NO TOOLS OR PARTS WHERE THEY CAN CAUSE DAMAGE OR INJURY.

Tension the dual belts by tightening the tensioner bolt clockwise until you're satisfied. Snug up the tensioner lock bolt - no need to crank on it, just nice and snug. Tighten the bolt the alternator pivots on above it.

Now install the A/C belt. As before, it helps to reach way down with your left hand and manually lift the tensioner pulley to get enough slack and keep holding the pulley up while you're working it onto the A/C compressor pulley. Back under the truck to tighten the belt tensioner bolt. Right foot back in the engine bay and lean way down to tighten the tensioner's lock bolt. You're done. Now snicker to yourself about how others would still have 45 minutes work or more to reinstall the battery, battery box, skidplate and fan. With the 90 minutes you saved, wash the car and check all fluid levels, tire pressure and have a #6 while sitting on the tailgate while snickering a bit more....

DougM

Did this today. Thanks Doug, your advice and insights were spot on and I’d have been pretty confused without it. Had the confidence and tools at hand that once the parts arrived, I went to it.

Anyone going into this should pay careful attention to the post. One thing I discovered as I went was that the alternator tensioning bolt absolutely needed to come ALL the way loose, as stated. Not short of all the way. Just do it. There was no way those two belts were going on otherwise. That tensioner is tough to get at. Takes patience, and a ratcheting 12mm. Some of the time I used a short socket (shorter better), some of the time an offset flat wrench. Had to often hold the socket or wrench head on the bolt, with right hand while working the wrench with the left. Could get a few clicks going. I noticed also, that there is a torx head on that bolt. A 90 degree drill fitting with that size torx bit could possibly speed this process up.

Take time with it. There’s throttle cable in the way and other stuff in the way. Loosen all the way. The rest of the job is easy.

The splash guard was removed too, made it easier to see what was going on and to bump the a/c tensioner to where it’s needed.

Last thing, I bought a 10” extension for the lower tensioning bolt. At first glance I didn’t think I needed the reach, but it helps clear suspension parts and gives way more throw for the wrench. Have one on hand and a flat ratcheting 12mm and you should be fine, as I was. Wear gloves or be sorry. Anyway, that was awesome and I am very grateful to Doug for the write up. This is how it’s done and it’s challenging but very much a task for anyone looking to take care of some PM.

 

[digitalmarker]

Thanks to this thread, I replaced all three belts this weekend in under an hour. I replaced the alternator tensioning bolt and block with brand new parts from Wits End, which made the reinstall quicker and released all tension from the alternator pulley so the new belts just slipped on. The previous owner used a garbage belt for the AC which likely fried the pulley, I replaced both with brand new parts and the truck sounds a lot quieter overall.

 

[saraujo]

There have been a few posts lately with folks changing the 3 drive belts and including the unneccessary steps of removing the battery, the battery tray, the lower engine bay skidplate and even the fan (!?).

Since I changed my belts today after a fruitless attempt to quiet them down, I thought I'd outline this simple procedure, which I'd have completed in 20 minutes had my neighbor walked over to say hello.

First, loosen the lock bolt in the center of the A/C tensioner pulley. It's a 14mm and I find it easiest reached standing with the left foot in the engine bay and right foot on the bumper. Lean way down with an open end wrench, bracing yourself on the valve cover with your left hand. Just loosening a revolution will do.
Then slide under the truck with a 14mm on about a foot of extension and find the 1" hole under the AC compressor. Directly in line with it is the tensioner bolt - a very long bolt. Turn it counter clockwise until it comes loose and then insert it for a revolution or two. It helps to remove the ratchet handle and use the extensions only once the bolt is finger tight so you don't drop the bolt. You just 'feel' that it's out of threads, then spin it back in a rev or two.

Loosen the alternator upper bolt it pivots on. Just a couple turns and I think it's a 12mm.
Then the lock nut on the alternator below it - again only a couple turns (12mm). This lock nut clamps down on a very long bolt whose threads you can see while loosening it, which is the tensioner bolt.
Loosen the tensioner bolt counterclockwise (12mm) until it literally comes out of the tensioner. Thread it back in a couple turns. This tensioner bolt is easily accessed with a socket wrench sans extension in a tight spot a stubby would speed things up. The 3 minutes of limited swinging here is what causes most folks to opt for the hour of removing the battery and battery tray.

So now to remove the belts. First, the A/C belt will nearly fall off, though it might help to reach deep down in with one hand to manually pull the tensioner pulley up (gravity will keep it holding the belt). Then the longer dual belts - forward one first. Pulling/pushing on the belts will help pivot the alternator all the way through its travel to ease reinstalling the new ones. Then roll the forward one off the alternator pulley and free it from the other pulleys. Loop it up over a couple fan blades, then rotate the fan and keep looping over more and more blades until you can simply pull it up and out between the fan and the radiator fins. There's plenty of room here - no need to remove the fan. Roll the rearward belt off and do the same.

Install the rearmost of the new dual belts, seating the the belt properly on the rear groove of the engine pullley and first putting it in the forward groove on the alternator pulley, then moving it to the alternator pulley's rear groove where it belongs. I mention this because trying to move it directly to the alternator's rear groove will cause tremendous tension in the belt. Better to do two small steps. Seating the 2nd of the dual alternator belts is more difficult because you can't spin the pulleys as easily to get it into the groove with the other belt adding some friction. If you can't get it fully on, note the direction the engine will spin (look at the fan blades, which push air rearward when the engine's running) and hook the belt as best you can such that when you bump the starter the engine will pull it the rest of the way. BE SURE YOU HAVE NO TOOLS OR PARTS WHERE THEY CAN CAUSE DAMAGE OR INJURY.

Tension the dual belts by tightening the tensioner bolt clockwise until you're satisfied. Snug up the tensioner lock bolt - no need to crank on it, just nice and snug. Tighten the bolt the alternator pivots on above it.

Now install the A/C belt. As before, it helps to reach way down with your left hand and manually lift the tensioner pulley to get enough slack and keep holding the pulley up while you're working it onto the A/C compressor pulley. Back under the truck to tighten the belt tensioner bolt. Right foot back in the engine bay and lean way down to tighten the tensioner's lock bolt. You're done. Now snicker to yourself about how others would still have 45 minutes work or more to reinstall the battery, battery box, skidplate and fan. With the 90 minutes you saved, wash the car and check all fluid levels, tire pressure and have a #6 while sitting on the tailgate while snickering a bit more....

DougM

Hi Doug,

I got my 93' almost 3 years ago now, having replaced a ton of things, now need to replace my water pump and will be doing all the belts as well. Can I ask, were these instructions for your 93' or your 97'? Apologies if I missed this.

Thank you kindly,
Steven