Changing Temp Sending Unit- Help (2 Viewers)

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CCOT also offers two different ones...but once again, I do not want to buy a third one and then have it not work either.
Sending Unit Water Temperature
 
I acutally got a used "early model" WTSU tonight from Cruiser Corps. There is NO WAY that is going to fit in a 2F. Look at the picture of the two on the link above. The one for the early model has a very long end on it. It goes too deep and will not fit in a 2F......

I did install the old aftermarket WTSU and cut and replaced the wire connector. Interestingly at idle it showed in the normal range and when I took the 40 up on the highway the guage went towards the C instead of H as the engine got hotter.

Not fixed, but at least it shows some movement....This is frustraing because each time I switch these out I spill a s*** load of antifreeze all over the driveway....
 
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So when I installed my wtsu in my 2f for the early cluster, I had a riser made to accommodate the "longer" wtsu for early model cruisers.
 
So when I installed my wtsu in my 2f for the early cluster, I had a riser made to accommodate the "longer" wtsu for early model cruisers.

Can u snap a pic of it so I have an idea what it looks like?
 
The gage should not be on H w/key off. The gage is fragged. Gage is fragged because it was hooked to a 73-later sender for too long.

To fix these problems all at once, install a known good E-72 gage, and a new OEM E-72 gage sender.

done.
 
For anyone who may do this later on or is reading this and doesn't know what the difference is between the old vs new WTSUs here is a pic. The one on the left with the spade top is the newer type WTSU and the one on the right is the older type. As you can see the brass piece that "reads" the temp of the coolant is MUCH longer and will not fit into a 2F at all....too long. Lets see if we can find a longer 'union" to see if i can get this one to fit.....talk about a headache.

I honestly thought this was going to take about 30 minutes tops....it has been 4 days now. I hope I can save someone else some time if they ever do this.

Randy
wtsu old vs new.jpg
 
The gage should not be on H w/key off. The gage is fragged. Gage is fragged because it was hooked to a 73-later sender for too long.

To fix these problems all at once, install a known good E-72 gage, and a new OEM E-72 gage sender.

done.

Early-72 sender will not fit. See the pics and explanation above.
 
flaa1a said:
Can u snap a pic of it so I have an idea what it looks like?

Here you go, also there is pipe tape. My gauge works fine "h" when off. Slowly moves to cold then about the first tic mark when warmed up.

image-2561105247.jpg
image-2561105247.jpg
 
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There is no o-ring used on the TSU. It seals against the shoulder below the threads.

Yeah....I did add those O rings. The WTSU that I bought from O Reily's had an O ring on it and it seemed to seal well so I thought mine was missing. Thanks for the info Jim. Good to know. I will remove them.
Randy
 
The gage should not be on H w/key off. The gage is fragged. Gage is fragged because it was hooked to a 73-later sender for too long.

To fix these problems all at once, install a known good E-72 gage, and a new OEM E-72 gage sender.

done.

Jim,

God and everyone else knows you are are much more smart about Cruiser stuff than me, but I could have sworn that I read somewhere on the forum that the early model guages go to the H when the key is off. Are you pretty sure about this?

Randy
 
Can anyone with an early 40 chime in on where your temperature guage is when your key is off? Does it rest on the H or C?
 
All the early Cruisers I have had over the years have read Cold with the power off.
 
Sweet..the plot thickens...I now need to find an E-72 guage like Jim recomended....I do have two speedo clusters but do not know what years they are from. I know one is later becasue the blinkers are on the face of the speedo. But even if I have an early one how can I test it to see if it is a good one?
 
Here you go, also there is pipe tape. My gauge works fine "h" when off. Slowly moves to cold then about the first tic mark when warmed up.

View attachment 562013

Is that brass? Did you make it? Went to Lowes and looked at brass fittings and the only thing I could piece together was LONGER than the WTSU and it will not atually reach into the cylider head.....:mad:

Kill me again. PS before someone suggests it....I do not want to put an aftermarket one in.:lol::flipoff2:
 
Make a jumper and test it on your 55. Same sending unit and should be the same gauge just a different face? What connects the gauge to the wiring one or two wires? Possibly those two wires are swapped. Have a cold one and call it a night man. That 40 has been around for 40 years and will be there in the morning.
 
flaa1a said:
Is that brass? Did you make it? Went to Lowes and looked at brass fittings and the only thing I could piece together was LONGER than the WTSU and it will not atually reach into the cylider head.....:mad:

Kill me again. PS before someone suggests it....I do not want to put an aftermarket one in.:lol::flipoff2:

No I didn't make it myself the cruiser shop here in Denver put that on for me. Also I think it's steel or some type of metal not brass. Check sor or call Mark. This should be a part you can easy make at home depot or purchase. We are not the first guys who delt with this issue. I had a thread a year ago here on mud "2f stays cold while at hiway speeds" goes through my journey of engine cooling issues. And this exact problem happened. I trust my gauge is correct and it's hot when off slowly moves to cold when started and stops at the first tic mark. I held that ruler in the pic to help give you a idea on length for that riser. I think once you get that installed and the early wtsu installed you'll be golden.

Saw this link searching mud...http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=66

also might try this part number at toyota :toy part #90404-16160

TEMPERATURE SENDING UNION
1/75-7/80 FJ40/55

Just need to make sure the wtsu doesn't bottom out on the block when installed with that union/riser
 
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Can anyone with an early 40 chime in on where your temperature guage is when your key is off? Does it rest on the H or C?

Answering my own question....Looks like according to this that(perhaps) Pre 9-72 clusters rest on Hot with the key off..still may be hope. I am just making a guess by looking a the pics............


FJ40 Instrument Clusters
 
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