Changing Cylinder Head Gasket Opinions needed

[scouthead]

Alignment dowels?

Anyone blow the gasket near #1 or #6?? When I had my 2F apart, both the block and Head got cut...putting it back together I had on O.S.! moment when I was about to put in the Head bolts. Took the head back off and removed the gasket, and then put the head back on to see if the dowels were going to bottom out and keep the head drom seating well...didn't have any issues, but didnt' have much metal removed either. I cleaned my head bolt holes out well, and don't think the bolts even came close to bottoming out, so anyone having problems with this must have taken A Lot of metal off or have different bolts.
I did not however use an OEM gasket. THe Fellpro I had didn't even fit right(one bolt hole mis-aligned) so I used some other one the parts store near me came up with. No problems yet(only 1K miles) but I'm going to retorque everything RIGHT NOW. Hope it lasts a while... really don't want to get back under there anytime soon...might pull the 350 out of the garage instead next time...

 

[cruiser88]

i did not like the #5 piston

 

[IDave]

My HG ruptured between 5 and 6. I think it was because sediment buildup in the waterjacket, a very common occurance, tends to concentrate back there because of the coolant flow patterns. The rear of the engine doesn't cool as well.

 

[Degnol]

Assume everyone had retorqued the head after installation? Mine lost at least 10 lb/ft after less than 50 miles.

Ed


EDIT: Sorry, did not know that I had already "contributed" to this post. I sound like an old man repeating himself.....but, I AM old.......and repeating myself

Ed

 

[BillJelavich]

My HG ruptured between 5 and 6. I think it was because sediment buildup in the waterjacket, a very common occurance, tends to concentrate back there because of the coolant flow patterns. The rear of the engine doesn't cool as well.

Good to know. Both of mine happened around #6. Or between 5 and 6. I did not try re-torquing the head, but I can.

I'm waiting until I understand a bit better.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Good to know. Both of mine happened around #6. Or between 5 and 6. I did not try re-torquing the head, but I can.

I'm waiting until I understand a bit better.

you have to retorque the head.

 

[IDave]

you have to retorque the head.

x2

No good in waiting. You might wait too long.

 

[BillJelavich]

x2

No good in waiting. You might wait too long.

You are probably correct. I'll probably attack this after new years. However, when the head was pulled off the second time, the torque on the bolts all were at their initial setting, or very close. Now I can see loose head bolts causing oil leakage (which there was not any), but I can't see it causing the gasket to basically disintegrate. I'm not a mechanic, and I don't play one on TV.

 

[Degnol]

Bill, once the headgasket is breeched it all cascades downhill. Just ask Morton Thiokol
Remember the gasket also has to hold back combustion pressures and temeratures that can kill a gasket pronto, not just coolant and oil.
But, I am no mechanic, either
However I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night
Ed

 

[SHREG]

Someone once told me to replace all the head bolts when doing a head gasket. Does this really need to be done, is re-using the old head bolts cause for concern?

thanks

 

[scouthead]

Someone once told me the same thing - that someone didn't feel like buying the new bolts for me though.

Reused mine... hope it's not an issue...

 

[cruiser88]

Someone once told me to replace all the head bolts when doing a head gasket. Does this really need to be done, is re-using the old head bolts cause for concern?

thanks

no but they really should go back in the same holes they came out of if you can help it

 

[Poser]

i did not like the #5 piston

Please elaborate on why you do not like #5.

no but they really should go back in the same holes they came out of if you can help it

There is no difference in any of the head bolts, they are not hole specific.

Someone once told me to replace all the head bolts when doing a head gasket. Does this really need to be done, is re-using the old head bolts cause for concern?

As long as there is not any significant pitting/corrosion on the shank of the head bolt, or the threads have not become damaged, they can be reused.

My head gasket blew and I am part way through replacing it.

Looks like you are having fun!




Please do not use silicone, or anything on the new Toyota head gasket. You must not have drained the block or at least removed the lower hose before removing the cylinder head, judging by the amount of coolant in the head bolt holes in the block. Be certain that there is not anything on the cam followers/lifters. That silicone can get into areas and create all sorts of expensive, unwanted drama. I would try and remove as much of that as possible before putting the head back on. Remember to drain your engine oil since there will likely be a significant amount of coolant in the oil.


As others have suggested, clean all bolt holes in the block out well. Use compressed air to clean them out and inspect them to make sure nothing is still in any of them. Cylinder blocks can be damaged easily by not being thorough with this step.



Good luck!


-Steve

 

[cruiser88]

Please elaborate on why you do not like #5.







There is no difference in any of the head bolts, they are not hole specific.






As long as there is not any significant pitting/corrosion on the shank of the head bolt, or the threads have not become damaged, they can be reused.










Looks like you are having fun!




Please do not use silicone, or anything on the new Toyota head gasket. You must not have drained the block or at least removed the lower hose before removing the cylinder head, judging by the amount of coolant in the head bolt holes in the block. Be certain that there is not anything on the cam followers/lifters. That silicone can get into areas and create all sorts of expensive, unwanted drama. I would try and remove as much of that as possible before putting the head back on. Remember to drain your engine oil since there will likely be a significant amount of coolant in the oil.


As others have suggested, clean all bolt holes in the block out well. Use compressed air to clean them out and inspect them to make sure nothing is still in any of them. Cylinder blocks can be damaged easily by not being thorough with this step.



Good luck!


-Steve

just the way i was taght i suppose something to do with stretching threads same way i was taught to use the same bolts for the same bearings caps etc etc.as far as #5 l could not tell what was on the piston(looked like rust)

 

[grant5127]

Poser... do you re-torque after run in??

 

[Poser]

Poser... do you re-torque after run in??

Absolutely.



And then re-torque the rocker stand hardware, and then re-set the valves.

 

[Degnol]

Absolutely.



And then re-torque the rocker stand hardware, and then re-set the valves.

I believe that I remember you refering to this proceedure as............................."Running the rack....eh?


And before you can ask.....Maker's....not Turkey




Ed

 

[Poser]

I believe that I remember you refering to this proceedure as............................."Running the rack....eh?

Yep....settin' the rack.

And before you can ask.....Maker's....not Turkey

You lucky dog....

 

[warrior_1515]

Thank you x1,000,000 for everyones responces.

Steve, as always you have given me a piece of mind when working on my rig.

Update: Everything is back together. Threads cleaned out, new Toyota head gasket, torqued to 85ftlbs, well cleaned block surface and my head was rebuilt at the Napa machine shop.

Now I seem to have a bigger problem...

The first time I started my wagon I used started fluid. Ran for a couple seconds then died never to start again.

Here is what I have determined so far: I have spark. I don't have a strong gas flow to the carb, but I am using starter fluid in its place.

What I believe is wrong: I think the spark is weak. It is a pink/red color spark and can barely be seen. Not 100% sure the engine is properly timed. Before I tore the engine down to replace the HG the engine was recently timed and ran well.

The coil shows equal resistance from the center post to the red wire and center post to the black wire. I have an electronic ignition done by the PO. While the head was off I did not mess with timing, pull the distributor or even turn the engine over.

Why did my wagon start for a few seconds then stop?

Any help is again greatly appreciated.

Dave

edit: I adjusted my valves based on this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=831847&postcount=5 and this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=71631

 

[Poser]

What is the condition of your battery/state of charge?


Some electronic ignition systems will not work properly if the battery does not have a full charge.

If you crack the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine, does gas leak out?

Are you sure that you are cranking long enough to get the pump to push fuel to the carb?