Changing Cylinder Head Gasket Opinions needed (3 Viewers)

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Sep 12, 2005
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Location
Bend, OR
My head gasket blew and I am part way through replacing it.

I need an extra set of experienced eyes to let me know if something is wrong.

The pics are top and bottom shots of the bad head gasket as well as an overall shot of the block.

Please speak up if you see something wrong or need more info.

What I have so far: The head is at the machine shop and they said it has magnifluxed just fine. Not sure if they are needing to deck it or not. Also they are checking the seating of the valves.

Also, I am going to clean the block up and find out if that is flat or warped.

Thanks for looking.

Dave
gasketbottom.webp
gaskettop.webp
engine.webp
 
Cleaned up the block and put a straight edge across. Didn't see any warpage.

Couple pics of the 1&2 cylinders as well as 5&6. Battery crapped out before I could get 3&4.

The only thing I could tell is a small mark in 6 that I have a pic of.
1and2.webp
5and6.webp
 
Where exactly did it blow the gasket?.....is it between cylinders? I had this problem so I had the block resurafaced as well. The head was also resurfaced. After a year and half of driving it blew again. I have no idea if it was machined incorrectly or the bolts bottomed out. Or to much compression pressure....or a combination of the above. I have not taken it apart yet. My opinion is if have the head and/or block resurfaced make sure your bolts won't bottom out. just my 2 cents. Good Luck
 
Thanks for the advice. My big concern is that I won't put this back together correctly or not knowing what to look out for.

Keep it coming please
 
One important thing is make sure the bolts and bolt holes are clean and free of debris.....
 
I had a thermostat stick as I got on the freeway and by the time I could shut it down, cool it and refill the radiator, the temp gauge had gotten above the second mark. When I opened the hood, water was shooting 6-8 feet in the air from the vent port on the overflow tank. The headgasket did not blow for another 4-6 months. When it did, it blew the upper readiator hose off and steam came pouring out from the hood. I installed one of the new style headgaskets from Toyota after having the head magnafluxed and rebuilt. I've had no issues for over 5 years now. I did not have to surface the block. It takes quite a bit of stress (heat or otherwise to warp a block).
 
my 2 cents.
dont know about others but I have done a few of the heads on my rig 2 different motors both used when I got them. I have had the worst luck with aftermarket gaskets not just head so I say when it comes to the head and or intake exaust go with dealer for some reason they seam to be thiker and seal better. also I have heard of guys running 2 head gaskets after haveing the head resurfaced. Also I would use eather the paint on or spray on copper gasket sealer the tacky stuff helps hold it in place and gives a good seal.
 
I had a thermostat stick as I got on the freeway and by the time I could shut it down, cool it and refill the radiator, the temp gauge had gotten above the second mark. When I opened the hood, water was shooting 6-8 feet in the air from the vent port on the overflow tank. The headgasket did not blow for another 4-6 months. When it did, it blew the upper readiator hose off and steam came pouring out from the hood. I installed one of the new style headgaskets from Toyota after having the head magnafluxed and rebuilt. I've had no issues for over 5 years now. I did not have to surface the block. It takes quite a bit of stress (heat or otherwise to warp a block).


This is almost exactly what happened with mine. Except that my temp gauge doesn't work and I don't know how hot I was running.
 
my 2 cents.
dont know about others but I have done a few of the heads on my rig 2 different motors both used when I got them. I have had the worst luck with aftermarket gaskets not just head so I say when it comes to the head and or intake exaust go with dealer for some reason they seam to be thiker and seal better. also I have heard of guys running 2 head gaskets after haveing the head resurfaced. Also I would use eather the paint on or spray on copper gasket sealer the tacky stuff helps hold it in place and gives a good seal.

I ordered a Regrind Kit from cdan. Not here yet so I can't confirm the part number with the bad gasket.

Thanks again everyone for all your help.

Dave
 
I ordered a Regrind Kit from cdan. Not here yet so I can't confirm the part number with the bad gasket.

Thanks again everyone for all your help.

Dave

You don't want to use any type of sealer with the new style factory head gasket. It is not recommended and not needed.
 
There has been discussion before on this, but I do think retorquing is most important. I did this after 50 miles of driving, but my engine was entirely rebuilt.
I retorqued the head bolts using the FSM sequence and found that they had all lost 10 lb/ft of torque. Then retorque the valve train and readjust your valves.
I also used an OEM gasket.

GL

Ed
 
Thanx may i bother to ask for the valve clearance too? Not sure if thats what it called, but i have a slight knocking sound after the PO changed cylinderhead so i need to adjust the valves ,i think

Valve lash the same as later Fs: Intake .008, Output .014 inch. If you had an F 135, it is .010 and .014.
 
Thanx may i bother to ask for the valve clearance too? Not sure if thats what it called, but i have a slight knocking sound after the PO changed cylinderhead so i need to adjust the valves ,i think

My FSM says:

0.20mm (0.0079") Intake
0.35mm (0.0138") Exhaust

And the sequence of Intake to Exhaust valves is explained really well in:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=87116&highlight=intake+valve

Earlier I followed all thes steps and was able to really quiet down my engine noise. Also, I adjusted the valves while the engine was running. Crazy at first, but after a while I got used to it.

Dave
 
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I agree with the retorqueing of head bolts.....just like the manual says after you run it. I also used toyota head gaskets and yes they are better quality than the felpro one and the Japanese one that I have lying around. Cleaning the thread and lube the bolts during installation also should be done. That way you have a genearal idea that each has pretty darn close to torque the manual says you need.
 
is it between cylinders? I had this problem so I had the block resurafaced as well. The head was also resurfaced. After a year and half of driving it blew again. I have no idea if it was machined incorrectly or the bolts bottomed out. Or to much compression pressure....or a combination of the above. I have not taken it apart yet. My opinion is if have the head and/or block resurfaced make sure your bolts won't bottom out. just my 2 cents. Good Luck

what head gasket did you use? i used felpro's twice and they both failed. my best friend used felpro's twice, they both failed. i use felpros on my chebys with no issues. i finally sold my lemon to a friend who parted it. my friend finally swapped in an oem gasket and years later, the rig is trouble free. this is one of many cases where oem is THE ONLY WAY TO GO.
 
I used a Toyota head gasket. I have no idea what went wrong....I'm thinking it was either machined wronged or the head bolts bottomed out or too much compression.....I have no idea why it went. I will replace the whole engine and figure it later.

what head gasket did you use? i used felpro's twice and they both failed. my best friend used felpro's twice, they both failed. i use felpros on my chebys with no issues. i finally sold my lemon to a friend who parted it. my friend finally swapped in an oem gasket and years later, the rig is trouble free. this is one of many cases where oem is THE ONLY WAY TO GO.
 
I've blown 2 head gaskets in the last 3 months after my rebuild. The first gasket came from SOR when the engine was rebuilt, and we figured it was flawed. Replaced with another one (I think toyota) by a mechanic. That lasted about the same amount of time.

Both burnt off back by Cylinder 6. I'm still working out understanding why.
 

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