Change your coolant! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter BigSwede
- Start date
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re_guderian
SILVER Star
I think about that every time I change my oil. And yet, here I am at 194K with that stupid black plastic cap...
re_guderian
SILVER Star
On the other hand, I can count on zero fingers the number of times in my life I've stuck a litmus strip into my radiator. Because I didn't know I needed to. Now I know.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
!00% THIS!!!
r2m
Richard
I've never done it either. Just stay with the recommend changes. My indie certified mechanic lets me know when it's time.
Regarding that guy's video, I don't completely dismiss it, but I weigh and balance what he and other "tubers" post against my own personal experiences and other opinions. As I like to say, opinions are like belly-buttons, everyone has one.
To keep this in perspective, TCCN did mention that the failures he's seen were happening at higher mileage, e.g. the LC he was working on was at 200k. Just like the tranny issues we have hearing about, it all comes down to regular maintenance, so change your fluids, and change them often!
Agreed! Replaced my coolant @60,000 miles. Pulled the block drain plugs, drained the radiator, and Toyota coolant. I change oil every 5K. Hoping to skip the valley plate coolant leak @100.000 miles.
Lexus says first at 100K and then every 50K after that. I'm at 45K and will be doing mine after Canada trip I leave Saturday morning then the tip of the Mn. Arrowhead. Also installing tranny cooler after I get back and changing all other fluids and should be at 50K. Wanted to do everything before I left but radiation treatment got in the way and I ran out of steam.
Never stuck a litmus paper strip in the engine coolant have quite a few other things though. 30+ years ago used to use a multimeter to check connectivity of the coolant on a GMC (Got a Mechanic Coming). IIRC .3 or .4 Volts it was time to change it. Same exact problem with a lot of GM products back then. Not a ph check, more of a you are losing block metal into the coolant due to acidic coolant. Same basic principle of a sea water distillation plant on a ship with an in line voltmeter in the discharge pipe.
Have thought about taking a reading on mine but just going to change it every 50k. If it helps with the water side issues on the 4.6 will remain to be seen certainly can't hurt. No doubt in my mind that waiting for 100k is too long.
It's the bleeding process that I'd be concerned with having the dealer do it. On my 100 (2UZ) bleeding all of the air out properly can take some time. Time the dealer tech might not take. It's not uncommon to have to top off the radiator the morning after a full cool down cycle.
Although at least with a dealer coolant flush you know your getting the real Toyota stuff. Ask them for a brake flush or oil change, who knows what your getting - it's likely bulk / barrel stock, and not the sealed DOT3 or Toyota oil bottles you might think.
I've had good luck with the dealer coolant flushes for non-Toyota vehicles, but have not yet tried one on my UZ. I'll be replacing the radiator next spring and will probably DIY it then - otherwise I'd just let the dealer handle it.
Would depend on the dealer and if you trust them or not
When I got the GX I made them throw in a couple of free oil changes. Not sure if the half hour going back and forth with the salesman and dealer was worth it now. Just got back from my first free oil change and tire rotation at 5K and leave for Canada Saturday morning.
Bought 5 new Wildpeaks AT3 tires for it not long after I got it, I always get 5 and put them all into rotation because tire makers have a habit of changing tires on you so the same ones are not available when you need a new one or set. And will take that extra 25% usage with a 5th tire. I mapped all the tires and mounting location in OBD Fusion. Just got home and the spare is still in the same location I marked that one in Fusion with a separate label. I told them I wanted the spare in rotation and even printed out the rearward cross rotation on how I wanted them done. He said it would take some extra time, I said fine it is worth it. After half an hour he came out to get me and told me that everything is complete including the spare tire placed into rotation I specifically asked him. Found it strange that he didn't mention that the mechanic struggled with it because getting it out or another in is tricky, the struggle with the 265\70 is real but it can be done.
I have 4 gallons of Toyota coolant in the garage I have been collecting all the fluids as they have gone on sale over the last couple of months. I am lucky that the Indy 4x4 shop I use lets me use my own fluids in fact they prefer I bring my own fluids. I trust them 100% and after hunting season I am going to have them change out everything for me correctly. Still so mad tempted to drive back to town and give the dealer hell. But I don't have time for that and have no plans to ever go back there right now. Ever.
Instead of packing I have to go out and let air out of the tires one by one to map them again to find out exactly what the hell they did do with mounting the tires. Besides adding ~7-8 pounds more air to each one over what they are supposed to be
With these new crop of issues popping out my propensity to worry about normal things is immense.
The other weekend did a nice 500 mile journey and i had to really think about whether i wanted my acc to take care of uphill driving (for those unfamiliar with toyota acc programming it really likes to wait till the very last second go downshift and woooh does it mash the throttle).
In my head im thinking, driveline shock coupled with gear fluid that probably needs to be changed soon etc etc.
The other weekend did a nice 500 mile journey and i had to really think about whether i wanted my acc to take care of uphill driving (for those unfamiliar with toyota acc programming it really likes to wait till the very last second go downshift and woooh does it mash the throttle).
In my head im thinking, driveline shock coupled with gear fluid that probably needs to be changed soon etc etc.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
I think a lot of people mis-interpret "reliable" as "guaranteed problem-free" instead of "much lower than average (but non-zero) failure rate". 
I've only done coolant drain and fills because I'm nervous about opening the block drains for the first time in 13 years and 200k+ miles later.
Also just replaced the radiator with a new OEM unit.
The plastic one seems fine on my 2011 but just throwing it out since you said "go back to OEM".
Also just replaced the radiator with a new OEM unit.
Isn't there an OEM aluminum option?
The plastic one seems fine on my 2011 but just throwing it out since you said "go back to OEM".
- Thread starter
- #39
Bit of an update: In his latest video on used Toyota/Lexus not to buy, TCCN says the head gaskets were changed after 2013, and he hasn't seen this problem in 2014 or newer.
Still a good idea to do a quick drain-and-fill every couple of years.
Still a good idea to do a quick drain-and-fill every couple of years.
The head gasket part changed? Guess I should go watch...
