Lingering Coolant Problems

[LXJake93]

If this title isn't the epitome of my GX...

Will post pics when possible. Replaced cracked radiator last Fall '24 along with rad cap, new upper and lower hoses, clamps, coolant (duh), and thermostat. After running it for a couple days, the upper hose would swell a lot (unusual). Figured there was too much pressure, so swapped the old rad cap back in and the swelling hose went away. Still running the same old rad cap and still not having any swelling of the hoses. Rad is keeping coolant in it when engine is cold. When engine running and at op temp the overflow res is below the full mark. Have not been topping off. Dash temp gauge never creeps above the normal halfway point. Checked under the hood the other day, for the first time in over a month and it looks like coolant is leaking from the upper hose where it connects to the water pump housing. Coolant is leaking at that point and splattering back onto the serp belt and so on.

Maybe the clamps aren't tight enough?

Maybe the hose is defective?

Maybe the rad cap is still not allowing correct pressure in system?

Is this a sign the water pump is needing replacement?

Is this a sign of coolant valley seal issues?

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

 

[Rednexus]

Are the clamps the OE Toyota spring-type clamp or an aftermarket worm drive clamp? The worm drive clamps can loosen up as the hose expands and contracts. Regardless, I'd start with the clamps. I had them leak on my rig under some pretty cold conditions (worm drive clamps). A quick tighten and they've been good ever since.

 

[LXJake93]

Are the clamps the OE Toyota spring-type clamp or an aftermarket worm drive clamp? The worm drive clamps can loosen up as the hose expands and contracts. Regardless, I'd start with the clamps. I had them leak on my rig under some pretty cold conditions (worm drive clamps). A quick tighten and they've been good ever since.

Clamps are OE, circular spring-type clamps. Purchased new at parts store during rad swap. I have not used worm drive clamps. Heard they were not recommended.. maybe I confused that info.

Wouldn’t tightening that connection with a worm drive clamp cause the hose to swell again and build up too much pressure? Probably being too cautious.

 

[llm]

Clamps are OE, circular spring-type clamps. Purchased new at parts store during rad swap. I have not used worm drive clamps. Heard they were not recommended.. maybe I confused that info.

Wouldn’t tightening that connection with a worm drive clamp cause the hose to swell again and build up too much pressure? Probably being too cautious.

I reused the OE spring clamps going to the radiator, but used Hayden supplied worm drive clamps going to the cooler.

 

[LXJake93]

I reused the OE spring clamps going to the radiator, but used Hayden supplied worm drive clamps going to the cooler.

So, you were using OE clamps but switched to worm drive?

 

[llm]

So, you were using OE clamps but switched to worm drive?

No. sorry for confusion, I confused this with another post. I added a trans cooler and used OE clamps where there was one before, but worm for new hardware.

 

[Rednexus]

Clamps are OE, circular spring-type clamps. Purchased new at parts store during rad swap. I have not used worm drive clamps. Heard they were not recommended.. maybe I confused that info.

Wouldn’t tightening that connection with a worm drive clamp cause the hose to swell again and build up too much pressure? Probably being too cautious.

The circular spring clamps are, IMO, better than worm drive. BUT, I've used worm drive clamps for 20+ years on various vehicles and they do work just fine. The only issue I've had is them getting loose when it's cold - but a re-tighten fixes that. Spring clamps are kind of hard to find (at least around here), while Ideal/Tridon stainless worm drive clamps can be picked up for a dollar or two each at most home improvement/hardware stores.

I'd probably try replacing the clamp first to see if that fixes it. You can either use a worm drive clamp, a new OE-type spring clamp, or T-clamps (which are IMO pretty nice as well and better than a worm clamp). If that doesn't work it may be the hose.

 

[LXJake93]

Alrighty... got curious. FINALLY made an account and punched in the VIN... Regrets = Lessons, right?
Oh well! Now I know for sure where the leak is coming from. I guess I'll keep her topped off for now...

 

[rav8]

Welcome to the club! I did the valley plate seal and my water pump around that mileage. It does feel better when it is behind you.

 

[Hiluxforever]

View attachment 4173744

Alrighty... got curious. FINALLY made an account and punched in the VIN... Regrets = Lessons, right?
Oh well! Now I know for sure where the leak is coming from. I guess I'll keep her topped off for now...

Radiator leak caused my head gasket to fail.

 

[LXJake93]

Radiator leak caused my head gasket to fail.

How? I replaced the radiator already, whewww

 

[LXJake93]

I also noticed in the Lexus account the valve cover gaskets were replaced shortly before the CVP leak

 

[Hiluxforever]

How? I replaced the radiator already, whewww

It kept coolant from being able to pressurize which reduces cooling capacity significantly.

 

[LXJake93]

It kept coolant from being able to pressurize which reduces cooling capacity significantly.

oh yikes. I guess having the CVP resealed sooner than later would be most beneficial for cooling capacity. I mean, it's just dripping out of the upper rad hose connections and what looks like maybe the water pump. Almost seems over-pressurized.

 

[Hiluxforever]

oh yikes. I guess having the CVP resealed sooner than later would be most beneficial for cooling capacity. I mean, it's just dripping out of the upper rad hose connections and what looks like maybe the water pump. Almost seems over-pressurized.

It depends on if it pressurized. Mine leaked for almost 20k before I fixed it, then it had ti be redone a year later when I did the headgasket

 

[Hiluxforever]

I should add i have 159k on my 2015 and drive about 20-30k a year.

 

[LXJake93]

I should add i have 159k on my 2015 and drive about 20-30k a year.

Got 155k on my '10. Drive it maybe 10k-15k miles a year. I live 10 minutes from work and rarely do we use this vehicle for any sort of road tripping or anything. Typically take the wife's '17 Nissan Rogue for everything.

 

[LXJake93]

I think there is sufficient pressure in my cooling system, which would be the cause for oozing/weeping coolant dripping from the water inlet/CVP area. Right? lol

 

[Hiluxforever]

I think there is sufficient pressure in my cooling system, which would be the cause for oozing/weeping coolant dripping from the water inlet/CVP area. Right? lol

Failed sealant from either getting hot or old coolant.

Those are the two modes of failure for the valley plate.

 

[LXJake93]

Failed sealant from either getting hot or old coolant.

Those are the two modes of failure for the valley plate.

Oh, gotcha. I'll bet it was from getting hot, which would have been caused by a leaky/cracked radiator (replaced). I have checked all the other areas for head gasket failure(s) and everything checked out fine.