Oil in coolant

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A guy goes to the doctor and says, "My arm hurts every time I bend it upward. Can you help me?" Doc reply's, "Sure! Don't bend it upward!" 🤔 😁
Most of the good trails are over 10k 😉
 
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Most of the good trails are over 10k 😉
So are you usually above the tree line at >10k ft? Must be awesome up there! Most our trails here are usually between 7k to 10k foot.
 
So are you usually above the tree line at >10k ft? Must be awesome up there! Most our trails here are usually between 7k to 10k foot.
Tree-line here is between 11k and 12k. Lots of neat trees int he marginal zones with crazy winds.

These are from 2 different trails.

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Kinda jealous maybe a smidge. Makes our 5-7k seem pedestrian. 😂
Just remember the really high trails are the first to close and last to open.
 
Just remember the really high trails are the first to close and last to open.
Seriously. Some years, trails with shaded areas or deep drifts open for only 2-3 months.

Take that with a grain of salt. Although I’ve lived in CO for 27 years, I’ve only been wheeling for a couple years.

But it’s like late July to Sep, Oct or Nov (depending on first snow) for some of the high trails.
 
Seriously. Some years, trails with shaded areas or deep drifts open for only 2-3 months.

Take that with a grain of salt. Although I’ve lived in CO for 27 years, I’ve only been wheeling for a couple years.

But it’s like late July to Sep, Oct or Nov (depending on first snow) for some of the high trails.
There was fresh snow up by T33 on Sunday by Bunce School Road.
 
New CSF HD radiator was installed by TRU in Denver. Came in under quote for a total of 1180ish.

They pressure checked the overflow and it was good.

I'll get it up into the mountains next weekend, to functional check it.
 
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got the radiator valance re-installed. Temps are a bit lower. Coolant wasnt low and didnt need to be added. Installed all push clips today along with the foam strip on the radiator to help create a seal. I need to make some adjustments to one of the diverters. To get maximum airflow through the radiator.
 
No. And I just got it sucking coolant out of the reservoir.

Really hoping that the water wetter i put in is gunking and I am not looking at a new engine.

In case I am looking at a new enginer we are going to by beater car.
water wetter is not a good product to use in these engines, that's almost certainly what you're seeing here.

WW is designed to be used with straight distilled water in racing applications. It improves heat transfer and provides some corrosion resistance. It's not a good thing to add to formulated coolant.

I learned the hard way when I was younger and more naive. My 1997 Maxima got WW in the radiator and I got the same gunk. It's not well compatiable with some coolant formulations, though I couldn't tell you if it was OAT or HOAT that give it problems.


If you need more cooling capacity, the solution is a radiator upgrade, not fiddling with coolant chemistry which is VERY careful balanced.
 
That was already determined. Its fine with traditional glycol.
 
Update:
-Coolant is clean after 500 miles since radiator was installed
-side air dams have been secured
-top radiator cover is back on
-engine cover is back on

Drove 15 minutes to run errands from a cold start. Had heat going full blast in all 3 zones with windows open and truck didnt open thermostat until I pulled in walgreens. Over half the driving was 55mph or higher. Outside temps are mid 50s.
 
I've found cooling to be drastically improved with the CSF radiator. We pulled Homestake Pass in MT with out camper this summer. I had the trans in 3rd and the UZ spinning about 4,400 rpm (driving 55 mph) for several miles. The engine temps barley got over 200F and the trans temp never crossed 200F (though the TCC was locked). I was in the fast lane passing semis. That radiator is worth every penny.

When off-road I find the engine runs much cooler if I put it in a lower gear. If you are crawling in low-range 2nd or 3rd and lugging the motor, it will get a lot hotter than putting it in a lower gear and spinning the engine at 2,000 rpm or higher. I think it's due to having a mechanical fan that doesn't move a lot of air at idle speeds, as well as the water pump also moving less water.
 
I've found cooling to be drastically improved with the CSF radiator. We pulled Homestake Pass in MT with out camper this summer. I had the trans in 3rd and the UZ spinning about 4,400 rpm (driving 55 mph) for several miles. The engine temps barley got over 200F and the trans temp never crossed 200F (though the TCC was locked). I was in the fast lane passing semis. That radiator is worth every penny.

When off-road I find the engine runs much cooler if I put it in a lower gear. If you are crawling in low-range 2nd or 3rd and lugging the motor, it will get a lot hotter than putting it in a lower gear and spinning the engine at 2,000 rpm or higher. I think it's due to having a mechanical fan that doesn't move a lot of air at idle speeds, as well as the water pump also moving less water.
I also have the Aux cooling package since I have 3 zone heat even though its a base.

Between the fan, the extra heat exchanger, and all of the plumbing, the truck can pull quite a bit of heat from the engine.
 
Update

Truck is at dealer having headgaskets and a new starter installed. Truck has been mostly parked since September.

I will try to remember to update as I know more.

Truck has 148,500 miles give or take.
 
Heads are off.

Warp-age is within spec.

Should have it back next week or week after.
 
Just got it back from the Dealer. With a new Starter it was just under 7k with tax.
 
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