Catalytic Conv. stolen. Stuck 2000 miles from home in “Limp Mode”! (1 Viewer)

[highfructose]

This is amazing. What size hardware did you use? I’m going to a hardware store tomorrow for bolts/washers then to a trusted fab shop to see if I can get something like this cut and attached before a cross country trip starts Tuesday night.

The majority of the fasteners are the oem ones that held on the engine guard. Plus some extra washers to sort of pinion the front of the skid down (for a little extra security in a skidding scenario).

I needed an extra pair of 2” bolts in lieu of the oem ones towards the middle front (short bolt from pic 1, shiny middle front ones from pic 3) with the matching thread as oem since on the oem engine splash guard that section is recessed and on mine it is not (pic 2).

The two forward most left and right fasteners I used the “bolt/nut clips” from the oem splash guard to fasten the new skid to the front skid that is retained on the vehicle…hard to explain but you’ll get the idea when you’re there, they’re little clips that have a sort of nut on the back of them that your oem bolts tighten into on the oem splash guard.

The rear bolts holding the skid on are 2 random 4.25” bolts (pic 1) that go all the way through the crossmember thing and have a bolt on top (pic 4). It’s similar to how the budbuilt skid attached about 35 minutes into the attached video. I used big burley washers from a winch hardware kit on that part.

If you make one like mine, perhaps consider going wider at the rear as it’ll cover more of the cats. Mine ended up around 36” wide back there. If you make the skid follow the contour of the frame rails more, it’ll cover the cats a little further (pic 4).

Sorry to post the same photos again…but if someone does what I did, they’re explanatory along with the blurb.

P.s. if you just want cat coverage for your front set of cats, you don’t have to make as long of a skid as I did. You can just go from the middle set of bolts (the hold the rear of the engine splash guard) back to the crossmember. And then you can leave the stock/oem splash guard in place. You’d be making a mock-up of the budbuilt transmission skid rather than what I did which was a poor man’s engine and transmission skid in one piece. Keep in mind, if you just want the transmission skid which covers your front set of cats, it’s only $250 from buds. So you don’t have to use a janky construction sign like I did (which is thinner than buds)…I just happened to have the sign, which was aluminum, and the time (it took like 3 hours) so I figured I’d give a go at the engine plus transmission skid.

Total length for engine and transmission skid was 48”. It’s about 36” wide at the widest towards the rear. I plan to add little access ports add access the oil filter and fumoto oil drain valve…should be easy enough with a dremel…and, like with the fancy skids, I should be able to use slightly larger bits of material and some “bolt/nut clips” to make the access ports have little removeable covers.

 

[highfructose]

Those are cats. The 200 series has 4 cats. Two after the headers and two after the O2 sensors. The resonator is the one next to the spare tire

It appears you may be right. No wonder it’s an ultra low emissions vehicle.

Those secondary cats will likely require one more skid than I already have. The budbuilt transfer case skid will probably be what I get…Because it’ll require a custom crossmember to bolt to, don’t think a homemade/diy skid will work there

 

[yOHda]

What a thread! Glad OP is close to getting everything sorted.

The welds. From a "reputable" muffler shop. I mean come on. How are you in business.

I got to thinking as I read a few comments. If I was stealing cats, I would think my weapon of choice would be battery powered Sawzall. Less noise, less sparks, more access.

 

[highfructose]

What a thread! Glad OP is close to getting everything sorted.

The welds. From a "reputable" muffler shop. I mean come on. How are you in business.

I got to thinking as I read a few comments. If I was stealing cats, I would think my weapon of choice would be battery powered Sawzall. Less noise, less sparks, more access.

A sawzall would def be more effective/versatile…Larger though. A little handheld angle grinder is more concealable.

 

[yOHda]

A sawzall would def be more effective/versatile…Larger though. A little handheld angle grinder is more concealable.

I get that, but sawzalls have gotten pretty small. And a blade will make quick work of the pipe versus fiddling with a grinder wheel. You would have to have a fresh disc and cleanish cuts to cut through to the other side quickly. Twice. Or 4-8 times with our trucks.

 

[CharlieS]

I removed my own resonator in seconds with a cordless sawzall. I can see how thieves could use one for quick cat remooval.

 

[bloc]

perhaps consider going wider at the rear as it’ll cover more of the cats.

I would be very reluctant to trap even more heat under the vehicle.

 

[04UZJ100]

I would be very reluctant to trap even more heat under the vehicle.

Agreed.

Something like this may work for folks. Seems pretty reasonable and something that could be installed easily.

 

[LTSR]

I would be very reluctant to trap even more heat under the vehicle.

@highfructose time to start drilling holes

 

[highfructose]

@highfructose time to start drilling holes

I may drill some speed holes.

 

[highfructose]

Agreed.

Something like this may work for folks. Seems pretty reasonable and something that could be installed easily.

View attachment 3043437

This would be nice because all you’d have to do is trim it…no drilling for mounting points.

 

[CharlieS]

It appears you may be right. No wonder it’s an ultra low emissions vehicle.

Those secondary cats will likely require one more skid than I already have. The budbuilt transfer case skid will probably be what I get…Because it’ll require a custom crossmember to bolt to, don’t think a homemade/diy skid will work there

You may already be saying this, but for others - the Budbuilt transfer skids come with a new beefy steel crossmember.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

The 7ft long cat strap is long enough to go on the bottom, then make a 180 and a run over the top. They glue to the exhaust and cats when the exhaust gets hot. Even a battery operated angle grinder will have a hard time cutting through all of it. My expectation is that the thief will move on to an easier target. Total for 2 x catstraps, 6 x stainless exhaust clamps and paint around $400.

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An interesting solution. My only concern with that is that the purpose is not so obvious, and a thief may very well try cutting through (and damaging all kinds of things) before realizing they can't get what they want. A more blatant piece of protection (ex. skid plate) has the benefit of being an obvious headache/show-stopper.

 

[grinchy]

I like the idea of the exhaust shop welding on 1/2” solid stainless rod on two sides of the cat pipes.
Pretty light. Would likely punt the sawzalls and angle grinders out of the picture, too much time and trouble.
Only problem is the cost.
I think I saw a custom alloy or build of bar stock somewhere that was designed to shatter cutoff wheels.

 

[chris777]

That black residue is soot from exhaust leaks, likely from incomplete welds. And I get it, it's really hard to weld around the top. But could explain the cat efficiency suggestion Teckis made.

Also I back up the shop saying you need to get rid of the smaller pipe. If that's only on one bank that side will see less air mass and need less fuel than the other side. The truck should be able to pick up on this and adjust fuel per cylinder bank but there's a limit to how far it can adjust, and it's still far from ideal.

And the shop WELDED the O2 sensors in?!@?!!

Thank you for your informative reply. We are in the middle of Wisconin, planning our return home, and your post gives me some concern. Should we try and find a shop to replace the narrow pipe? It will cost time. Seems like most shops are too busy, because people cant buy new cars. We are ready to go home where we can drive my FJ60 and our Prius while we wait for parts to fix everything permanently. But i dont want to hurt my engine in my haste. I plan on keeping this truck til i die. How important is it to replace that narrow pipe now, before i put on another 1100 miles on it. The Toyota dealer said i should be good now that my fuse is replaced and no longer in limp mode, but they highly recommended that i replace the narrow pipe as soon as possible. Its no longer in limp mode. I want to get home. But ive been putting my schedule ahead of the health of my Land Cruiser‘s wells being for 12 days.

 

[grinchy]

End of trip should be fine. You’re good to go in the short term.

 

[bloc]

Thank you for your informative reply. We are in the middle of Wisconin, planning our return home, and your post gives me some concern. Should we try and find a shop to replace the narrow pipe? It will cost time. Seems like most shops are too busy, because people cant buy new cars. We are ready to go home where we can drive my FJ60 and our Prius while we wait for parts to fix everything permanently. But i dont want to hurt my engine in my haste. I plan on keeping this truck til i die. How important is it to replace that narrow pipe now, before i put on another 1100 miles on it. The Toyota dealer said i should be good now that my fuse is replaced and no longer in limp mode, but they highly recommended that i replace the narrow pipe as soon as possible. Its no longer in limp mode. I want to get home. But ive been putting my schedule ahead of the health of my Land Cruiser‘s wells being for 12 days.

If your vehicle runs out of room to adjust fueling it’ll trigger a light and code for rich or lean condition. So I wouldn’t ignore any CELs.. a code reader could be important here.

The bank with the narrow pipe would run rich, which isn’t as harmful. Thing is the MAF will read total airflow so that means the other side would trend lean.. but again the engine can see this and adjust things, to a point.

Any CELs currently?

 

[CharlieS]

Firstly, I want to thank everyone for replying to my plea for ideas. Secondly, I apologize for taking so long to get back with you, but there is very little Verizon coverage in the Upper Penninsula, and none in the campground at Porcupine Mountains. Yesterday was a very busy day, so when I did have coverage, I didn’t have time. Keep reading, I have a lot of answers.

We made it do Rhinelander Toyota in Northern Wisconsin yesterday morning. Very nice, very knowledgeable people there. After an hour or so of diagnostics this is what they told me.

1. clearing codes yourself wouldn’t help my situation because they would keep coming back if they still senses something wrong. There was something still wrong.
2. The 9 codes causing me to stay in “limp mode”, or reduced engine power, were doing their job, because a 7.5 am mini fuse, the EFI#2 fuse, under the hood, had blown, so multiple oxygen, heat, and air injection sensors could not function at all. They think the fuse was quite possibly blown when the muffler shop welded in the Bosch oxygen or O2 sensors.
3. they said the muffler shop, Cliff’s Automotive Repair & Exhaust in Traverse city did three things wrong. They damaged the sensors when they welded them in, leaving them only partially effective, they replaced my Land Cruiser exhaust pipe between the two cats on the drivers side, with pipe that looked to be 1/2 maybe 3/5 the diameter of the stock exhaust tube, but most importantly, they were not able to diagnose and find the blown fuse.
4. the vehicle was no longer in reduced engines power mode and the check engine light was out. They said I should be able to get home without any damage to the engine before solving the problem permanently, but suggested I try to get the small diameter pipe replaced. They also said i have not hurt my engine. The upstream sensors were untouched.
5. The vehicle performs normally again! What a relief. But, after a couple of hours of driving, the check engine light has reappeared. So fingers crossed.
6. The most surprising thing they told me was that they could get both cats, both sensors, pigtails, and pipe in 3 to 5 days!!!! I was floored! They found them at Toyota parts warehouse in Chicago! The Toyota dealership I took it to within an hour of discovering my cat stolen, which is IN Chicago, told me 4 to 6 weeks. Toyota Dallas Parts dept, told me the very same thing. Backordered!!!! What is up with that? I have print out of the parts I need and will attempt to order them, but our USAA insurance has seen an estimate from an adjuster and has approved coverage. So can I order the parts myself or do I have to get Toyota to order them with our claim number as promise of payment. Its $4200 in parts plus 6 hours labor. But maybe I have to order them form Rhinelander? and pay for them to ship it to me??? Crazy.

I forgot to mention that because of state laws, most shops don’t want to deal with people in our situation, because unless they can get parts, they can not let our vehicle leave the shop or they face a $20k fine. So that complicated things, as well as trying to keep on schedule. We had family to visit, events to attend, and prized camping reservations made a month in advance we didn’t want to lose.

Anyway, thanks again for your interest and your help.

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That repair is an abomination. I'm glad they were able to get you back on the road in a pinch, but the pipe diameter is way undersized and the weldor should be embarrassed about that workmanship.

 

[greynolds]

IMHO driving it is safe as long as you pay attention to any codes that get thrown. Just keep the speed down and don't push it any harder than you need to until a proper repair has been made.

 

[highfructose]

Thank you for your informative reply. We are in the middle of Wisconin, planning our return home, and your post gives me some concern. Should we try and find a shop to replace the narrow pipe? It will cost time. Seems like most shops are too busy, because people cant buy new cars. We are ready to go home where we can drive my FJ60 and our Prius while we wait for parts to fix everything permanently. But i dont want to hurt my engine in my haste. I plan on keeping this truck til i die. How important is it to replace that narrow pipe now, before i put on another 1100 miles on it. The Toyota dealer said i should be good now that my fuse is replaced and no longer in limp mode, but they highly recommended that i replace the narrow pipe as soon as possible. Its no longer in limp mode. I want to get home. But ive been putting my schedule ahead of the health of my Land Cruiser‘s wells being for 12 days.

I had a set of poorly welded Midpipes at one point and about 5 minutes with a skilled muffler guy had them squared away. It was at a midas I think and it was just a random worker that fixed it for free.

He didn’t speak good English but he described the symptom of a poorly welded pipe as “pspspspspsp” like you’ll hear it while the vehicle is running every time a piston pushes exhaust out. Might also sound like a “clack clack clack” (had this issue with a pin hole in an exhaust manifold).

If you get under the car and don’t hear that, it’s probably a tight weld.

Either way, a muffler shop guy under your car could def tell you whether it’s leaky.