Catalytic Conv. stolen. Stuck 2000 miles from home in “Limp Mode”! (1 Viewer)

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Due to this thread, I decided to try making a cat cover/skid plate out of a road/construction sign.

If anyone is able to source a 48”x36” piece of aluminum or steel, it’s not terribly difficult to make one to cover them…I would have made the flare towards the rear slightly wider if I did it again…and I made.

An aluminum roadwork sign is about 1/10” thick aluminum…

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Seems like your 2 x cats aft (furthest from the engine) are still out in the open.
 
How well do the Bud Built skids play with the OEM skids? In other words could I keep the OEM engine skids and just get the Bud Built transmission & transfer case skids? Yeah, I'm a cheapskate.
As I understand it, you can buy just the skid that covers the cats, and with some longer bolts, "should" bolt up to the existing OEM. But I will be honest, I have not tested that install, but when I installed mine it looked like it would work.

I absolutely agree, it's a lot of $$ to spend.
 
That black residue is soot from exhaust leaks, likely from incomplete welds. And I get it, it's really hard to weld around the top. But could explain the cat efficiency suggestion Teckis made.

Also I back up the shop saying you need to get rid of the smaller pipe. If that's only on one bank that side will see less air mass and need less fuel than the other side. The truck should be able to pick up on this and adjust fuel per cylinder bank but there's a limit to how far it can adjust, and it's still far from ideal.

And the shop WELDED the O2 sensors in?!@?!!
Probably welded the bungs that the o2 sensors screw into…usually, I think, they blow torch a hole in the pipe, and then weld the bung in…then you screw the sensor in.

That’s what they did, I think anyway, when I had a wide band 02 sensor added to a vehicle I have.
 
Probably welded the bungs that the o2 sensors screw into…usually, I think, they blow torch a hole in the pipe, and then weld the bung in…then you screw the sensor in.

That’s what they did, I think anyway, when I had a wide band 02 sensor added to a vehicle I have.
I did that for the wide band on my LS swap. The second picture though.. can’t see any flats on the sensor. Looks like they welded the body of it to the exhaust pipe.
 
Seems like your 2 x cats aft (furthest from the engine) are still out in the open.
I believe those are resonators. The cats are the ones just downstream of the headers/exhaust manifolds…then generally come the resonators…then come the mufflers.
 
I did that for the wide band on my LS swap. The second picture though.. can’t see any flats on the sensor. Looks like they welded the body of it to the exhaust pipe.
Yeah looking at that photo it does appear they may have welded an 02 sensor directly into the pipe. That seems shoddy.
 
I believe those are resonators. The cats are the ones just downstream of the headers/exhaust manifolds…then generally come the resonators…then come the mufflers.

Those are cats. The 200 series has 4 cats. Two after the headers and two after the O2 sensors. The resonator is the one next to the spare tire
 
Firstly, I want to thank everyone for replying to my plea for ideas. Secondly, I apologize for taking so long to get back with you, but there is very little Verizon coverage in the Upper Penninsula, and none in the campground at Porcupine Mountains. Yesterday was a very busy day, so when I did have coverage, I didn’t have time. Keep reading, I have a lot of answers.

We made it do Rhinelander Toyota in Northern Wisconsin yesterday morning. Very nice, very knowledgeable people there. After an hour or so of diagnostics this is what they told me.

  1. clearing codes yourself wouldn’t help my situation because they would keep coming back if they still senses something wrong. There was something still wrong.
  2. The 9 codes causing me to stay in “limp mode”, or reduced engine power, were doing their job, because a 7.5 am mini fuse, the EFI#2 fuse, under the hood, had blown, so multiple oxygen, heat, and air injection sensors could not function at all. They think the fuse was quite possibly blown when the muffler shop welded in the Bosch oxygen or O2 sensors.
  3. they said the muffler shop, Cliff’s Automotive Repair & Exhaust in Traverse city did three things wrong. They damaged the sensors when they welded them in, leaving them only partially effective, they replaced my Land Cruiser exhaust pipe between the two cats on the drivers side, with pipe that looked to be 1/2 maybe 3/5 the diameter of the stock exhaust tube, but most importantly, they were not able to diagnose and find the blown fuse.
  4. the vehicle was no longer in reduced engines power mode and the check engine light was out. They said I should be able to get home without any damage to the engine before solving the problem permanently, but suggested I try to get the small diameter pipe replaced. They also said i have not hurt my engine. The upstream sensors were untouched.
  5. The vehicle performs normally again! What a relief. But, after a couple of hours of driving, the check engine light has reappeared. So fingers crossed.
  6. The most surprising thing they told me was that they could get both cats, both sensors, pigtails, and pipe in 3 to 5 days!!!! I was floored! They found them at Toyota parts warehouse in Chicago! The Toyota dealership I took it to within an hour of discovering my cat stolen, which is IN Chicago, told me 4 to 6 weeks. Toyota Dallas Parts dept, told me the very same thing. Backordered!!!! What is up with that? I have print out of the parts I need and will attempt to order them, but our USAA insurance has seen an estimate from an adjuster and has approved coverage. So can I order the parts myself or do I have to get Toyota to order them with our claim number as promise of payment. Its $4200 in parts plus 6 hours labor. But maybe I have to order them form Rhinelander? and pay for them to ship it to me??? Crazy.

I forgot to mention that because of state laws, most shops don’t want to deal with people in our situation, because unless they can get parts, they can not let our vehicle leave the shop or they face a $20k fine. So that complicated things, as well as trying to keep on schedule. We had family to visit, events to attend, and prized camping reservations made a month in advance we didn’t want to lose.

Anyway, thanks again for your interest and your help.

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I appreciate the detailed report back. So after the cats were stolen somewhere near a Chicago dealer, you made it to Traverse City, MI with a LOUD exhaust where a muffler shop band-aided the system and then you made it to Ontonogon, MI in limp mode, then continued to Rhinelander, WI in limp mode to the dealer that helped? What a trip that was! And it’s still in progress! (I sure like the Porkies. My fireplace hearth is made of sandstone from that beach.).
 
Yes, the whole story is they were stolen In Skokie, Illinois. I was trying to shorten the story. A shop welded in straight pipe, illegally, and I made it to Traverse City for a supposedly much better “bandaid”. But when I got on the highway it was no better. I pulled over and called Cliff’s automotive and they said they did what I asked, and they couldnt take a look at it again till the following week. I will write them a complaint t when I get home.

My two BIG mistakes. I didnt test drive it before I paid them. And I didn’t take it to Toyota in Traverse City without an appointment and deal with waiting for service. I thought they were not the solution because they won’t use aftermarket parts, and they won’t weld. But they WOULD have discovered the blow fuse a LOT sooner. I was assured I wasn’t hurting my truck and chose to stay on schedule. Hope they are right. I have owned my other Land Cruiser for 37 years. I plan on keeping this one for as long as I am alive.

I will try to find a shop that will replace the small diameter pipe.
 
Firstly, I want to thank everyone for replying to my plea for ideas. Secondly, I apologize for taking so long to get back with you, but there is very little Verizon coverage in the Upper Penninsula, and none in the campground at Porcupine Mountains. Yesterday was a very busy day, so when I did have coverage, I didn’t have time. Keep reading, I have a lot of answers.

We made it do Rhinelander Toyota in Northern Wisconsin yesterday morning. Very nice, very knowledgeable people there. After an hour or so of diagnostics this is what they told me.

  1. clearing codes yourself wouldn’t help my situation because they would keep coming back if they still senses something wrong. There was something still wrong.
  2. The 9 codes causing me to stay in “limp mode”, or reduced engine power, were doing their job, because a 7.5 am mini fuse, the EFI#2 fuse, under the hood, had blown, so multiple oxygen, heat, and air injection sensors could not function at all. They think the fuse was quite possibly blown when the muffler shop welded in the Bosch oxygen or O2 sensors.
  3. they said the muffler shop, Cliff’s Automotive Repair & Exhaust in Traverse city did three things wrong. They damaged the sensors when they welded them in, leaving them only partially effective, they replaced my Land Cruiser exhaust pipe between the two cats on the drivers side, with pipe that looked to be 1/2 maybe 3/5 the diameter of the stock exhaust tube, but most importantly, they were not able to diagnose and find the blown fuse.
  4. the vehicle was no longer in reduced engines power mode and the check engine light was out. They said I should be able to get home without any damage to the engine before solving the problem permanently, but suggested I try to get the small diameter pipe replaced. They also said i have not hurt my engine. The upstream sensors were untouched.
  5. The vehicle performs normally again! What a relief. But, after a couple of hours of driving, the check engine light has reappeared. So fingers crossed.
  6. The most surprising thing they told me was that they could get both cats, both sensors, pigtails, and pipe in 3 to 5 days!!!! I was floored! They found them at Toyota parts warehouse in Chicago! The Toyota dealership I took it to within an hour of discovering my cat stolen, which is IN Chicago, told me 4 to 6 weeks. Toyota Dallas Parts dept, told me the very same thing. Backordered!!!! What is up with that? I have print out of the parts I need and will attempt to order them, but our USAA insurance has seen an estimate from an adjuster and has approved coverage. So can I order the parts myself or do I have to get Toyota to order them with our claim number as promise of payment. Its $4200 in parts plus 6 hours labor. But maybe I have to order them form Rhinelander? and pay for them to ship it to me??? Crazy.

I forgot to mention that because of state laws, most shops don’t want to deal with people in our situation, because unless they can get parts, they can not let our vehicle leave the shop or they face a $20k fine. So that complicated things, as well as trying to keep on schedule. We had family to visit, events to attend, and prized camping reservations made a month in advance we didn’t want to lose.

Anyway, thanks again for your interest and your help.

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Sounds like you found a good dealer with a sharp parts guy, I'd have had them order the parts since your guy at home in Dallas can't find Toyota parts with his Toyota computer. Cliff's probably didn't have bungs and you needed a fix now. Sloppy work and no excuse for not finding a blown fuse but it's a muffler shop And you drove away same day. All in all the vacation happened and you will have a crazy memory. I seriously doubt the engine has any damage, cars ran for decades with s***ty mixtures, insufficient exhaust flow, etc. I'd not put another dime into it until you have replacement OEM parts. Then fix it right! Maybe you can sell those aftermarket cats for a profit!
 
Due to this thread, I decided to try making a cat cover/skid plate out of a road/construction sign.

If anyone is able to source a 48”x36” piece of aluminum or steel, it’s not terribly difficult to make one to cover them…I would have made the flare towards the rear slightly wider if I did it again…and I may…if I come across another free piece of material.

An aluminum roadwork sign is about 1/10” thick aluminum…so about as thick as the thinnest steel bud built…not super robust, but, lightweight and better than the plastic splash guard that was on the engine previously…and obviously stronger than the total lack of splash/skid guard over the cats/transmission.

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This is amazing. What size hardware did you use? I’m going to a hardware store tomorrow for bolts/washers then to a trusted fab shop to see if I can get something like this cut and attached before a cross country trip starts Tuesday night.
 
The 7ft long cat strap is long enough to go on the bottom, then make a 180 and a run over the top. They glue to the exhaust and cats when the exhaust gets hot. Even a battery operated angle grinder will have a hard time cutting through all of it. My expectation is that the thief will move on to an easier target. Total for 2 x catstraps, 6 x stainless exhaust clamps and paint around $400.

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The 7ft long cat strap is long enough to go on the bottom, then make a 180 and a run over the top. They glue to the exhaust and cats when the exhaust gets hot. Even a battery operated angle grinder will have a hard time cutting through all of it. My expectation is that the thief will move on to an easier target. Total for 2 x catstraps, 6 x stainless exhaust clamps and paint around $400.

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My issue is.. I'm not sure what kind of glue they use, but I worked in a metal shop for years and I'm 99% confident I can get that strap off the bottom of that (all that I need access to) in about 15 seconds with a battery angle grinder.

But maybe this is all me not understanding how well it "glues" itself to the pipe.

Would love to see video of someone with some skills attacking this as a test.
 
My issue is.. I'm not sure what kind of glue they use, but I worked in a metal shop for years and I'm 99% confident I can get that strap off the bottom of that (all that I need access to) in about 15 seconds with a battery angle grinder.

But maybe this is all me not understanding how well it "glues" itself to the pipe.

Would love to see video of someone with some skills attacking this as a test.
I know, such a test would be nice.

It is worth to know the catstrap, with multiple braided wires therein, is 7ft long, enough to run up and down both cats. I positioned them bottom and top, with the 180 turn at the front cat where the exhaust runs up to the engine. You would have to have a pretty big disc to cut through one catstrap, then the 2-1/2" diameter exhaust and reach the top strap. There is no side access with a grinder. Together with all the orange paint and the 3 x each side exhaust clamps with bolts up, I would be surprised a thief would spend time on my vehicle.

A second reason I went for this is that I do not yet need skid plates, so I cannot be bothered carrying that weight around and spend well over $1000 for say the full set from Budbuilt in aluminum.

Dawns on me that skid plates from Budbuild or similar could be detached with an angle grinder pretty quick (just cut the bolt end which is fixed in place, making it easy to grind on them) and then they would do their regular trick.

Skid plates or not, cat thiefs know the cats are there. Out of sight is not out of mind in this case.
 
A skid plate is less than $400. The street sign is a great idea, but those red straps don’t seem like they would work well and are more expensive than a skid plate anyway.
 
A skid plate is less than $400. The street sign is a great idea, but those red straps don’t seem like they would work well and are more expensive than a skid plate anyway.
I am interested for offroad protection. Can you send me a link of a skid plate which is less than $400 and covers the entire area, transmission and transfer case?
 
I am interested for offroad protection. Can you send me a link of a skid plate which is less than $400 and covers the entire area, transmission and transfer case?
I just checked and you’re right, the bud transfer skid is more than I remember at $390 just for that one and $257 for the transmission. Touché. The strap thing offers no side benefit other than possibly deterring a thief, but I still don’t see how simply cutting the brackets off doesn’t defeat the entire setup. Heat activated glue doesn’t inspire much confidence, but I’m a skeptic by nature. For a difference of $200-$300 put me down for the multipurpose skid plates.
 
The strap thing offers no side benefit other than possibly deterring a thief, but I still don’t see how simply cutting the brackets off doesn’t defeat the entire setup.

My point exactly. Those mild steel exhaust clamps would take a few seconds to cut through, and in all my experience I haven't seen anything that would bond that strap to the exhaust and cats in a way that couldn't easily be pulled off, short of welding.. which clearly isn't happening here.

I'm no cat thief, but as mentioned I've fabricated/welded/ground/cut/shaped/bent steel for years and realistically bright paint or VIN etching would seem to be more of a deterrent than this product. Yes, it is better than nothing, and maybe enough to get the thief to move on.. but it also seems trivial to bypass. Maybe being one quarter the price of a good skid system is worth the savings.. but a skid system is still cheaper than a set of cats and O2 sensors plus can help off-road depending on what you do with the vehicle.

Also yes a skid system can be cut off as well, but most of them are very heavy for a single person under the vehicle as well as have recessed mounting hardware. A set of tools that most cat thieves don't usually carry could remove them. And now we are back to coaxing them into moving on to the next vehicle.

How about an electric fence?
 

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