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Caster Plates for a 3” Lift are they all the same ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sharky1528
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I took the cash I was going to spend on a new front driveshaft and bought a part time kit...I live in SoCal, all wheel drive isn’t needed. I had the casror bushings and they weren’t enough, but too much with the Slee plates, so went back to stock..still some vibration, but not for long
What kit did you go with?
So I am bringing this thread back cause I have a few questions. My rig is a 91 (so from what I understand about 1.9 degrees castor is the factory spec) with 97 locker axles swapped on it; the axles include the 97 sway bars. I have OME J springs and L shocks all the way around. I have the equivalent of metal tech 1.5 inch spacers in the front to level it out, Slee plates for castor correction, and a front adjustable Panhard added.
It drives alright , no vibrations that I notice but there is dartiness, I have to have two hands on the wheels like I am driving a bus on a movie or tv show. I am going to buy the Delta rear Panhard bracket.
I got an alignment after swapping the axles and here is the before and after.
According to the paper I am no where close to 92 and after castor specs, and kind of in spec for 91.
What am I missing here? I thought the plates were supposed to correct the castor.
Do I need bushings as well as plates?
Should I be using the radius arms?
Are there plates that adjust for more castor?
Should I be going by 91 or 97 castor correction?
Or just leave it if it drives alright?
I would love to have the “perfect two finger driving at highway speeds” I keep herering about.
It drives alright , no vibrations that I notice but there is dartiness, I have to have two hands on the wheels like I am driving a bus on a movie or tv show. I am going to buy the Delta rear Panhard bracket.
I got an alignment after swapping the axles and here is the before and after.
According to the paper I am no where close to 92 and after castor specs, and kind of in spec for 91.
What am I missing here? I thought the plates were supposed to correct the castor.
Do I need bushings as well as plates?
Should I be using the radius arms?
Are there plates that adjust for more castor?
Should I be going by 91 or 97 castor correction?
Or just leave it if it drives alright?
I would love to have the “perfect two finger driving at highway speeds” I keep herering about.
Updating this post since someone has bumped the thread. I went with the 4" Landtank plates (just installed a week ago) and they're awesome. Haven't gotten an alignment yet to check numbers, but obviously WAY better than the yellow bushings I removed. Plenty of tie rod clearance, no vibes (although I do have a DC shaft--I also have a spare stocker I could throw back on for testing purposes). I have 50mm TJM progressive springs, BTW, about 23" hub to fender flare.
Delta radius arms will fix your problem. Give them your lift height measurements and they will make sure you get the right product. Expensive, but best solution IMO. Their arms will err towards the higher end of caster spec, which will translate to better road manners.
@yellowgeko , I can't say for sure but I think my 4" caster plates offer more correction than the Slee plates. This is based on what I have read on here which could be subject, I don't know. But if you provide me with the measurement from the center of the hub to the underside of the flare I can better determine what the outcome might be should you install them.
It has been theorized that the caster specs changing from year to year was not due to axle re-designs. I think you have just proved that point here.
It has been theorized that the caster specs changing from year to year was not due to axle re-designs. I think you have just proved that point here.
Slee & Metal Tech offer the exact amount of correction. Using the same amount of correction with a center of hub to fender underside of 23" I get 4° of caster and zero vibs at any speed with a Part time.
I am currently on the road for the next few days and will get the measurements shortly.
The rig came with a body spacer kit on it so I gotta figure out how tall the kit is to give you correct number.
Your plates are the ones that require drilling, correct?
the 4" ones require drilling.
does anyone know much about what axles had what caster? i put a 91 axle in the front of my LX and it wanders bad, even with plates. i havent had it on a machine because i dont care but nothing changed other than an axle swap. i heard the early ones had less but wasnt sure.
the caster spec xhanged bur from dhat i've been able to find the housings haven't except for the addition of ABS.
Fwiw, pointing out another difference between Slee and LandTank plates (I got LandTank plates). Look at Steps 5A and 5B from the Slee install guide:
And then look at the install thread of LandTank plates:
forum.ih8mud.com
The Slee plates have a bolt that goes through top of the caster plates, in the front, that holds the plates and bracket together - in addition to the welding. Just thought I'd point it out.
And, as the Slee manual says - don't forget the sway bar drop brackets And, if you are planning on running a sway bar, get a LCP quick disconnect - for maximum on-road and off-road good behavior.
Edit: few more notes - adjustable panhard bar because stock is too short after a lift. And, stock DS works fine with my 4" lift (OME 850J/860X)
And then look at the install thread of LandTank plates:
Landtank Caster plates
Look one post before yours. I'm installing mine next week How many of each do I need? Many thanks.
forum.ih8mud.com
The Slee plates have a bolt that goes through top of the caster plates, in the front, that holds the plates and bracket together - in addition to the welding. Just thought I'd point it out.
And, as the Slee manual says - don't forget the sway bar drop brackets
And, if you are planning on running a sway bar, get a LCP quick disconnect - for maximum on-road and off-road good behavior.Edit: few more notes - adjustable panhard bar because stock is too short after a lift. And, stock DS works fine with my 4" lift (OME 850J/860X)
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Fwiw, pointing out another difference between Slee and LandTank plates (I got LandTank plates). Look at Steps 5A and 5B from the Slee install guide:
And then look at the install thread of LandTank plates:
Landtank Caster plates
Look one post before yours. I'm installing mine next week How many of each do I need? Many thanks.
The Slee plates have a bolt that goes through top of the caster plates, in the front, that holds the plates and bracket together - in addition to the welding. Just thought I'd point it out.
Not sure whst your point is but, both of my bolts go through the plates and the bracket to hold everything together. So no need for an aditional bolt at the top.
No point really, just noting a difference
That is why I said "Fwiw, pointing out another difference ....."
Im out 2.9 negative caster with the OME 3" lift, I do already have the arb caster correction bushings do I need to replace those also? or can i keep them? How much are your plates and how do we order them?
you have to install stock bushings. You can get them throught Wit's End
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Just saw this and want to make a quick note about the differences between 91/92 and the rest:
the 1.67* IS ONLY IF YOU HAVE THE STOCK TIRE SIZE, all others (tire sizes) follow the same specs as the later models. Above is taken from the FSM. So pretty much anybody on this forum should be shooting for the 3 +- 1 spec if they are looking for factory spec.
fj80rodngun
GOLD Star
I have plates in the wits end cart, is there a discount code available?
I’m not aware of any. You would have to contact wits end.
fj80rodngun
GOLD Star
Thanks for the reply, I went ahead and purchased the plates
