Caster correction brackets/plates (2 Viewers)

[calstyl2]

Thanks, Nay. My 80 is my DD, so it needs to be freeway friendly. I live in SoCal. Mountains, rocks, sand, and snow are all within at least a few hours drive. Not much mud. I'd like to do "challenging" trails (Rubicon and maybe Dusy-Ersheim someday), but I don't want to beat it up (no Hammers for me!). My local club is mostly built 40's - though wagons are increasing - and I'd like to do most of the runs they do. I'm willing to go slow, choose my lines carefully, and take good spotting advice. With all that said, I've accepted that about 3" is the maximum lift I should prudently do.

Do you (or anyone else) know how much clearance the drop brackets will actually cost me? Do they become the lowest point on the truck? Maybe a dumb question, but do the brackets raise as the tires climb over obstacles? Or, is it likely that the brackets will hang up on the obstacle after the tires clear it?

Also, if anyone actually using the drop brackets can answer these questions, I appreciate that.

Thanks!

I would stay away from the drop brackets if Dusy or the Rubicon are on your trail list. I had/have then and have hung them up on lots of stuff and pulled out the crossmember mounts for the transmission/transfer......You wanna buy them?

 

[HntWhtTail]

For what it is worth my rig came with the maf drop brackets installed, truck rides like it is stock. They do hang down kinda low and I think I would change them with bushings for looks and clearance only. I have yet to hang them up on anything. So clearance not an issue yet. I think the bottom of the control arm at the axle is acutally the lowest point on mine. I am going out there in a minute and will check.

 

[Pathfinder]

I just installed the MAF drop brackes and they are great! Truck drives like new. I have OME 851 and 1 inch spacer. no drive line vibes.

 

[jlbuk]

These MAF drop brackets sound like exactly what I need, except they will probably be too much for my moderate lift - what size / degrees do they come in ? Assume they just drop the rear mount of the control arm down ?

(no rock crawling on my agenga, diffs and plenty of other bits will be lower anyways)

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Your only option for what your trying to achieve, is use offset king pin bearings to achieve the castor corection you require, [should be able to on a 3-3.5" lift] or pull the housing and rotate the balls on the housing to point the pinion closer to the t/case. This creates its own set of issues, ans the angle changes end to end when you do this. It is also more expensive than doing the double cardin shaft.

3-3.5" of lift here generally see's 1 in 10 vibrate that wont go away when it has a good front shaft that isnt already worn, and doesnt have cheaper slip joint or uni's installed. A double cardin joint fixes those.

Spacing down the gearbox x member can also work, but not if its a truck that shouldnt have drop brackets either for the use it will get. The crossmember can be spaced up to 3/4" before the fan gets to close to the shroud.

I converted my truck to 2wd/4wd while lowering the transfer case gears, so as not to wear the front shaft driving around, so it stays good, for longer [and doesnt try and smoke the front tyre when it bangs into 2nd gear anymore]