Carburetor help needed (1 Viewer)

[KenaiFJ40]

So I need a lot of help. I have a 1975 fj40. It does have a 2f engine. It hasn’t been running for about 4 years and before that I had it running for about two years, but not very well. Previous to me owning it, I believe that it was sitting for a long time. When I parked it several years ago, it was leaking gas out the bottom of the tank and the carb was leaking in multiple places and running choppy. I knew it needed a new or repaired gas tank and a carb or carb work. Someone local suggested I purchase one on eBay. I did (didn’t now anything about them at the time.) and never did anything with it for a couple years. I finally got the bug to work on it. I removed the leaking tank and put new gas lines on it and installed my cheep carb. I still don’t have a permanent gas tank, but I have a plastic boat tank hooked to it to see if I could get it running. I got it running and it actually idles quite nicely. When I depress the gas pedal slowly, it revs up pretty well. If I depress the gas pedal quickly, it either just dies out or backfires and dies no matter where the fuel screw is set. I am starting to think it is just this cheap carb. I have attached pictures of my old carb. I am fairly certain that it is not the carb that this 2f came with. I think I want to try to rebuild it, and I would like to know were I could get the right kit from. I has a tag stamped H2661. Maybe a 69-71 carb? Another thing that I believe might not be right is that the bottom of both my cheap carb and the old carb have a third small hole in the bottom. Visible in the picture of the bottom of my carb. The carb is mounted to the intake with an insulator between them. The insulator blocks that third hole and I believe that needs to be open to the vacuum below??

Any advice would be appreciated. Junk the $90 carb? Rebuild my old carb (even though I think it is the wrong one)? Get something different? Have someone else rebuild it? Any help is appreciated.

 

[Pighead]

Could easily be a timing problem...

 

[KenaiFJ40]

Could easily be a timing problem...

That is one thing I don’t know much about. Unfortunately I don’t know much about a Toyota carburetor either, but I do know my way around a Mikuni snowmobile carb quite well and trying to transfer the knowledge to this carb project. I have a friend with a timing light coming over in the morning. Anything specific to this he will need to know? He said something about needing to know where the mechanical timing is supposed to be at idle. ???

 

[Pighead]

At idle, timing should be on the "BB", 7 degrees BTDC, on the flywheel. by the book.

 

[thebigredrocker]

If you look into the third hole you will see a screw with the center drilled out. It allows vacuum to pass thru and It receives a vacuum signal from a small side hole below the #1 butterfly valve. Not the big hole in throttle body base.

Do you still have the parts that are missing on the Aisan carb pictured? The brass tube in the aluminum carb body indicates a 1971ish carb. Should be a date code stamped on the flat surface near the fuel inlet.

After points and timing check.
I would:
hook up a vacuum gauge(note reading cold)
run engine until warmed up
after warmed, if vacuum is still below 17
pull valve cover and adjust valves

First valve adjustment on my 78 FJ40 ...

What a weird trip, finally found the BB (7 ½ degrees before TDC) in the flywheel window (bolt/cover long gone) and painted it so it would show up with the timing light. Still wasn’t sure where the TDC mark/line was. Warmed the engine up and pulled valve cover, etc. At this point I ran at low...

forum.ih8mud.com

You should see a good squirt of fuel in the carb primary when you braap the throttle.

Do you have a cable from gas pedal to carb or the 75 mechanical linkage.

If it is a carb issue and you have a fishing boat on the Kenai I could bring you a few rebuilt carbs to test out

 

[KenaiFJ40]

The only other parts I have from the old carb that are not in the pictures are some of the linkage parts I had to fit to the new carb to hook up my throttle cable. I was thinking that the 75 was supposed to have linkage. I think they must have swapped the linkage out with the cable when they put the carb on.

I’ll hook you up with a place to stay and a fishing trip on the Kenai. As a matter of fact I am heading out on the saltwater tomorrow morning to troll for Kings. Pack up a few parts and get on your way!

 

[Dizzy]

When cold, mine does a bit of the intake hiccup. I attribute it to leanness that relates to low vacuum (high altitude, tired engine, and that the Aisan carb doesn't deliver gas well thru the pump plunger, and it makes all the surfaces wet on the primary throttle barrel including the abyss of the EGR inlet tube.

My suggestion is to pull the spark plugs, after the motor is warmed up, and look for signs of leanness/ vacuum leak. Post pics of your plugs. Also, a vacuum gauge reading, for a baseline vac number, will help as you troubleshoot.

Your old carb might be the ticket, but might be tricky to swap with the air cleaner etc. Is your intake manifold original? Pics of it might help. Pics of your current carb will help too.

 

[KenaiFJ40]

Not sure if the intake is original or put on when the carb was changed. This is how I have it set up now.

 

[thebigredrocker]

I think that intake is older than a 75. Looks like you have an aftermarket header. Something to consider later on would be a fluid heat riser. It bolts under the intake to help fuel atomization when a stock exhaust manifold is removed.
Here's a quote from an Alaska Cruiser Guru

The exhaust manifold does attach to the intake of course. Not to secure it, but to heat the intake. Unless you always operate the vehicle in very hot conditions, an intake heater like the one referenced above is a very good idea. In colder climates it is a requirement INMHO.


Mark...

Is the PCV hose hooked up?

Looks like you have a vacuum advance hose hooked up to the distributor. If the distributor is a vacuum retard, you might try capping that vacuum line. So you'd just be running just on mechanical advance. I've seen the Guru's recommend that for retarding dissy's.

You can determine what dissy you have by applying vacuum with the dissy cap off. Hand held vac pump works best or just suck on the line really hard. Points plate rotating clockwise = retarding dissy. CCW= advancing dissy.

On timing. There is a 0° TDC line milled into the flywheel. And as Pighead mentioned if you zero the timing light while it flashes on the bb peened into the flywheel, you'll be at 7°

Was just looking at old Chinook fishing video's last night. Pre kiddos, I was fortunate to take a few trips via float plane into remote parts of Canada. Made it as far up as the northern tip of Queen Charlotte island. Hope you catch a hog tomorrow

 

[KenaiFJ40]

What is the pvc hose?

I does have a header and I am familiar with the stock exhaust and how it heats the intake. I will take more pictures of the hoses and where they go tonight and check the dizzy and points.

 

[thebigredrocker]

PCV hose should hook into the engine side cover. There is a picture and good discussion in this thread—>Someone please school me on pcv valves

 

[KenaiFJ40]

Yes I have a hose from my intake to the other side of the engine like that.

 

[Dizzy]

Do you have a wire running to the carb solenoid? It should have voltage at the on and start key position.

 

[KenaiFJ40]

Yes that wire is connected.

 

[KenaiFJ40]

Thank you for all of the suggestions. I was able to get it running so much better. The timing was quite off. When we got that adjusted, it ran much better, but still had a little stumble. We checked the gap on the points and it was too tight. We adjusted that gap and adjusted the timing again and the stumble was gone. The only thing right now that I am not 100% satisfied with is that I can’t quite get the idle down as low as I want. I believe that is because of the fine workmanship on the carb. When I manually push the linkage when it is at idle, it does slow down to were I would like it. It isn’t much off, but just a little higher than I would like it.

In this picture below, is this what the PCV is supposed to look like? There are two vacuum lines off of my intake. One to this, that I assume is my PCV and the second goes to my brake booster. Does that sound right?

The second picture shows how my distributor is in relationship to my oil filter. It was up against the filter and couldn’t turn anymore. We needed to “customize” the filter to advance the timing more to get it set properly. I will have to address that some time in the future. We also checked the distributor and it is vacuum advance and that seems to be working properly with the vacuum line from the carb. It is actually pretty cool, it has a little adjusting dial that sticks out that allows you to really dial the timing right on.

Next project is to put a new manifold gasket on. It looks like I really need to get the header shaved to the same thickness as my intake manifold. Will most engine machine shops be able to do that for me?


Thanks for all the help.

 

[Pighead]

When I manually push the linkage when it is at idle, it does slow down to were I would like it. It isn’t much off, but just a little higher than I would like it.



supposed to look like? Does that sound right?



I will have to address that some time in the future.

.

Will most engine machine shops be able to do that for me?

View attachment 2348487View attachment 2348488

1) Do you have all your return springs for the carb and linkage? Maybe get stronger springs...

B )Looks right, sounds right.

III) it's actually a pretty easy fix, I ran into the same problem putting that dizzy into my Late F many years ago,'way back before 'Mud...
Pull your dizzy out far enough to clear the cam gear, move the rotor one tooth one way or the other, whichever way you want the body to be, and slide the dizzy back in (some call this "clocking" the dizzy). Do be sure to seat the dizzy fully so that the oil pump is engaged. Re-time the dizzy in it's new position

Four) Dunno, never tried that. Probably. That is the correct way to do it of course, I just used 2 of the good Fel-Pro gaskets and a bottle of the Copper-Coat (NOT the spray on, the brush on)

 

[KenaiFJ40]

Thanks for the reply. I just got the new gasket in. I looked at another intake I had and the thickness of it matched my header much better. It worked out pretty good. Much quieter now and running nice. Thanks for all of the help. On to the 79 axles...

 

[Dizzy]

Thank you for all of the suggestions. I was able to get it running so much better. The timing was quite off. When we got that adjusted, it ran much better, but still had a little stumble. We checked the gap on the points and it was too tight. We adjusted that gap and adjusted the timing again and the stumble was gone. The only thing right now that I am not 100% satisfied with is that I can’t quite get the idle down as low as I want. I believe that is because of the fine workmanship on the carb. When I manually push the linkage when it is at idle, it does slow down to were I would like it. It isn’t much off, but just a little higher than I would like it.

In this picture below, is this what the PCV is supposed to look like? There are two vacuum lines off of my intake. One to this, that I assume is my PCV and the second goes to my brake booster. Does that sound right?

The second picture shows how my distributor is in relationship to my oil filter. It was up against the filter and couldn’t turn anymore. We needed to “customize” the filter to advance the timing more to get it set properly. I will have to address that some time in the future. We also checked the distributor and it is vacuum advance and that seems to be working properly with the vacuum line from the carb. It is actually pretty cool, it has a little adjusting dial that sticks out that allows you to really dial the timing right on.

Next project is to put a new manifold gasket on. It looks like I really need to get the header shaved to the same thickness as my intake manifold. Will most engine machine shops be able to do that for me?


Thanks for all the help.

View attachment 2348487View attachment 2348488

You can also get a different advance diaphragm? @4Cruisers

Also, Toyota oil filters are smaller in diameter.