Carburetor disassembly - mainly removal / install Q’s

[thebigredrocker]

You certainly could start cleaning/inspecting without a kit. Not sure if you can salvage the gaskets. If the accelerator pump is leather and isn't too worn, you can rehab them by soaking in oil. Jets can usually be reused. Run an ultra thin wire in the tip of the slow jets. Check that the Idle mix screw tip is good.

 

[TCEd]

Do I need to purchase a rebuild kit? Or do I just go after it

Reading your previous posts asking how to remove the carb. from the manifold implies you're new to this kind of stuff. Yes you need a kit. I used a HYGRADE kit for mine p/n 791B, but check before buying for your vehicle.
Ask yourself :
Why am I disassembling and rebuilding this carb. ?
What will I do once it's disassembled ?
How will I evaluate the parts and their condition ?
How will I reassemble it ?
How do I get it running afterwards ?
You need some knowledge, time, a clean quiet place, the kit and the youtube videos. ( the video isn't perfect, I recently used them for my rebuild.)
The kit contains more parts then you need since the carb. crosses a few models and each has some different parts.
It's easy to misplace/damage parts not in the rebuild kit. I damage a delicate spring that is not available anywhere but luckily someone told me how to modify and use one from a Bic pen.
There are individuals that will do this correctly for a fee and do it correctly the first time.
Sorry if this sounds harsh. Ed

 

[Kschep]

Not at all
No, I have never taken apart a carburetor but I have done basically everything else besides that and taking apart an engine. So I feel I’m ready to take the next step. Asking if I need to buy a rebuild kit was just a question because I’m preparing literally everything before I dive in. Seems very systematic and I want to have everything ready pre taking it out.
This forum allows me to use people like yourself for help and feedback. Which I am grateful for. I’d love to send it to someone but I’d also like to do it myself. I have a helper as well so I’m not alone. I’m just the one finding out all information possible before I begin.

Why am I disassembling and rebuilding this carb.?
- because my engine won’t stay on without choke pulled out flooding everything causing other issues. Root issue needs to be solved. Already fixed other possible issues and carb is the last in the line of things I’ve done to fix issue and mechanic and mud peeps all point to carb. So, I’m taking it out and apart to clean and put back together so it works correctly thereby hopefully solving my issue.
What will I do once it's disassembled ?
- inspect - find possible issues like dirt, gummed up stuff, anything causing and “issue”
How will I evaluate the parts and their condition ?
Replace possible old corroded rubber anything, gaskets, pictures and questions to community and helper and mechanic etc.
How will I reassemble it ?
Organization. Video.
How do I get it running afterwards ?
Reattach as was before and buy necessary fluids

 

[Kschep]

So I took it apart some of the way and wow is one side baked.

Waiting for my rebuild kit in mail before I go deeper.

Thinking I’m going to buy some chem carb dip as well.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Note the double ring booster primary side, single ring secondary. I see you have the stopper free, was there flat O-ring on top of it?

I think you said your carb is a 75. FJ40Jim has quite a few posts about those. If you want to read through them, Put his name in the posted by and use keywords "75-76" or "largest cfm" or "best year carb" or "75 AAP"

 

[Kschep]

Negative - if I’m looking at what your referring to

 

[Kschep]

76 carb and will consult his post for sure - thx!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Take pics of everything, where everything came from, which screw went where, everything, everything, everything.

Remove a screw, take a pic, take pics that show your work.

Take pics.

 

[Kschep]

I’m just basically filming it and pictures so that off .. I have basically geared up for brain surgery finding out it’s just documentation

 

[TCEd]

I’m just basically filming it and pictures so ✏✔ that off .. I have basically geared up for brain surgery finding out it’s just documentation

Most neurosurgeons do document their surgeries.

 

[Kschep]

Most neurosurgeons do document their surgeries.

Thank you for that

 

[thebigredrocker]

The US spec 75-76 carbs are the best raw material for a 2F build. Biggest flow area, and 75 has the added plus of AAP, a load sensitive enrichment system.

Negative - if I’m looking at what your referring to

Oops, I see now those carbs don't have the o-ring above the stopper.

Here's an exploded view from the microfiche coolerman hosts on his site.

 

[TCEd]

Thinking I’m going to buy some chem carb dip as well.

One gallon can is enough. I soaked three batches of parts each overnight. Make sure the carb. body is completely disassembled prior to soaking.

 

[Kschep]

Ok cool ya I was going to wait to go further until I had the kid get here in the mail but now I’m actually going to so I can dip while I wait

 

[Kschep]

Oops, I see now those carbs don't have the o-ring above the stopper.

Here's an exploded view from the microfiche coolerman hosts on his site.
View attachment 2065603

Me likey

 

[Kschep]

Okay I’m having issues - after talking the larger spring out and attempting to get the check valve ball bearing out - I took my needle nose pliers and tried to take out the round bracket that holds the ball bearing in. I CANT GET IT OUT (the bracket) and I don’t wanna ruin it because the rebuild kit does not come with one. How hard to do you have to handle it?

Also - and possible more important the ball bearing dropped right out after playing with the bracket for a little trying to take it out. Thinking I broke something or maybe it was already broken and that was my carbs issue. If so is that something I can even replace??
Thanks for hints at how to get that sucker out and if I should grab around the whole circle to grasp it or just grab one side and pull up...pictures attached

 

[thebigredrocker]

I've only taken earlier carbs apart. The ball retainer on those is a spring-like doohicky. I've seen FJ40Jim call it an "e-ring" I looks like the letter e. I'm not seeing it in your picture. Here's a good checkball retainer pic I found.

If you click on the quote below it will take you to a thread where someone found a replacement retainer

The e-ring for the pump check ball is available from the dealer.
21538-31010 RETAINER, BALL CHECK $1.63

 

[Bear]

Using small needle-nose pliers, you can grab the e-ring at the part of the "e" that crosses over the BB, and rotate it to further close the "e" on itself. Then pull it out; and then the BB. Note the size of the BB and carefully put both into a baggie with a note as to where it goes.

 

[Kschep]

Unfortunately the link: Toyotapartszone.com that the person referred to getting the e-clip from doesn’t seem to exist anymore.

I’ll have to find another source. Thanks for the link to the thread though!

 

[Kschep]

Oh and also the straight line through the middle portion of the eclip fell out with the ball. Doh
So that’s probably where my issue is derived