Carburetor disassembly - mainly removal / install Q’s (1 Viewer)

[Kschep]

Have an owners manual - yet it doesn’t say how to remove the carb out of my ‘76 40 series.

I need a little assistance from someone who has removed theirs from their truck.

I have a pic of the (what i think are the four main bolts - I placed yellow tape directly close to the front 2 bolts (no pick of the other 2 in behind.

Are these the main four (besides of course unattacing levers etc.

HELP IN REMOVING SO I CAN CLEAN IT - thanks to all!

Couldnt find a video of someone removing it

 

[GA Architect]

Should just be remove the main four bolts, throttle linkage, choke linkage, vacuum lines and fuel solenoid wiring. Be sure to take good photos of all four sides before removal.

 

[planomateo]

Check this thread for rebuilding, Aisan Carb Rebuilding Videos

 

[Kschep]

Picture

 

[Kschep]

Right on looks like I got the right idea - just my first time .. didn’t want to mess anything up

 

[Kschep]

Check this thread for rebuilding, Aisan Carb Rebuilding Videos

Funny because I had just saved all those YouTube videos about 2 days ago...but now it’s the weekend and the rough gets going.

 

[Kschep]

Funny because I had just saved all those YouTube videos about 2 days ago...but now it’s the weekend and the rough gets going.

ALSO - this only shows it completely out of engine compartment - I needed something to help me get the same thing out (as a newbie to working on cars but Abe to learn fairly quickly because I’ve had the rig for 6m

 

[planomateo]

I've recently acquired a project myself Introduction to "Rocki" - 76 FJ40 - Eventual Build Thread

 

[Kschep]

I've recently acquired a project myself Introduction to "Rocki" - 76 FJ40 - Eventual Build Thread

Nice - mines definitely Not that much of a project - I need need to figure out my carb and I think my orig 2F in literally the America’s color is ready to go - mine was garaged - got it for 13$ ))) a steal considering everything matches
I am jealous of that manual though hehe

 

[hooter]

INTAKE MANIFOLD CRACK.......?

In the picture you posted, there appears to be a significant crack in the aluminum intake manifold on the engine/front side of the carb. Your carb will never work properly with a large vac leak. You might want to address that before you go nuts on the carb.



hOOter

 

[Kschep]

YIKES !!!!!!!

Wow —— Nooooooo! Haha s***

UPDATE - just a cobweb

 

[Kschep]

INTAKE MANIFOLD CRACK.......?

View attachment 2060494

In the picture you posted, there appears to be a significant crack in the aluminum intake manifold on the engine/front side of the carb. Your carb will never work properly with a large vac leak. You might want to address that before you go nuts on the carb.



You scared me man - it’s actually just a cobweb LOL

 

[hooter]

Ahhhh.......

Glad to hear it. sorry to panic.....go become a carb rebuilder!

 

[brian]

i gotta ask, what do you plan on doing to the carb, if you can't even figure out how to remove it?

 

[Kschep]

i gotta ask, what do you plan on doing to the carb, if you can't even figure out how to remove it?

Well I’m removing to rebuild/clean - I have help and an extremely easy to follow tutorial from Pin Head on YouTube which videos the entire process from start to finish

Rather do it myself because I bought the darn thing to learn to work on. Outsourcing defeats the concept

 

[Billsboat]

I saw more than one crack. And I would not get too worried about making mistakes. No one wants to but is gonna happen. It’s how u learn! Good luck!

 

[thebigredrocker]

When you unhook the fuel line, leave the male union attached to the carb "air horn". When you go to reattach the fuel line, hold the union steady with a wrench while tightening the female fuel line nut. Reason is, if the union gets over tightened the threads can break off the air horn fuel inlet.

Take pictures as you tear into the carb.

You'll find two ball bearings in the middle section of the carb. The smaller ball should be in the big accelerator pump hole. Biggest ball should be in the smaller discharge chamber. So, in the words of FJ40Jim "small ball big hole, big ball small hole"

If possible, leave the choke butterfly attached. Those tiny screws are peened and will snap if removed. Pretty sure the primary and secondary butterfly's can be safely removed if the shafts are gummed up. Also I think the "high speed valve", the weighted butterfly found in the secondary barrel can be safely removed if you want to use fine grit to clean the shaft. Use something like REM oil the lube the shaft upon reassembly.

If you remove the jets, use a properly sized screwdriver so as to not strip them. You may need to wrap the screwdriver butt with a hammer before removing the main jets. The jets are all stamped with a size. Write down what went where.

 

[TCEd]

Take your time and take pictures and follow the pinhead videos. He even made a mistake which he later corrects. Save every internal carb part you remove.

 

[Kschep]

So yes ugh I will have to handle the carb. I replaced the throttle/idle solenoid and replaced wiring connection and fuse and still the same fricken problem. Engine won’t stay on without choke pulled all the way out even after warming up. Just rumbles to a halt. Now on to the whole carb

 

[Kschep]

Do I need to purchase a rebuild kit? Or do I just go after it