gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #21
Are you guys talking about this one @NeverGiveUpYota & @NookShneer??
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrOr somewhere back here??
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Carb tuning and frustration...
- Thread starter gregnash
- Start date
-
- Tags
- carburetor
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Are you guys talking about this one @NeverGiveUpYota & @NookShneer??
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrOr somewhere back here??
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok here is a bit better pic with more light. Storm is coming in so pretty overcast right now and windy..
I think you are referring to the spring that is almost dead center of the pic..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
I think you are referring to the spring that is almost dead center of the pic..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Ok yes you have it.
Just a thought, have you checked the adjustment on your choke cable? Maybe it is tugging slightly on the linkage.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
That too. My bracket was bend to s*** and thankfully I was able to pull my old bracket and swap it.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
It's just a hunch, far fetched at best. Idk really. Have you discussed it more at length w/ Jim?
Ok here is a bit better pic with more light. Storm is coming in so pretty overcast right now and windy..
I think you are referring to the spring that is almost dead center of the pic..
The one bottom right.
In the photo below you can see my helper spring I added.
I had the truck idling and was pushing on linkages to see if the idle would lower the rpms. You could detach the choke to see if that is holding the carb from returning to a complete idle.
Hope that helps. That would be a pretty simple fix vs tearing into the carb.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Helper spring. Interesting. Why not just replace the spring?
It's what I had in the garage. It's going on the parts list.
The choke cable pulls on the linkage and causes the RPM to raise. If there isn't enough slack in the cable, maybe it is causing it to raise the idle just a little as you described. There is a clamp on the valve cover side of the carb that holds the cable housing in place and it is adjustable.
Last edited:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Loosen the Phillips screw pinch section on the bracket and pull the knob out all the way to adjust where it's being pinched, then tighten. Definetly can take some fiddling.
Your choke opener should override any tightness in the choke cable once it's to temp.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
If it's hooked up, right?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #36
Choke opener is hooked up, operating properly is a different question.
Seems like everything is pointing me to the fact that I need to take the carb off and take a look at it. Also should see if there is something going on with the manifold as a vacuum leak somewhere would cause the idle to stay high correct?
Seems like everything is pointing me to the fact that I need to take the carb off and take a look at it. Also should see if there is something going on with the manifold as a vacuum leak somewhere would cause the idle to stay high correct?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I don't believe high necessarily. Does your gauge fluctuate when it's off choke? Does it bog when you give it throttle? Those are some of the key signs....
Last edited:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
No a separate vac gauge on the port near the finned piece next to the brake booster.
That's the reason I asked if you pulled the canister purge line off and capped the inlet. This is a simple check that takes all of 5 seconds. With your vacuum at 17 at your altitude, I wouldn't suspect a manifold leak at the head, of course that reading is at 1k right? Did you set timing at 1k or 650? You're not recurved so your mechanical advance is a little too quick for a desmog. At 1k it may be advancing a hair. Recurve is just a matter of swapping in different springs in the dizzy and making sure the advance limiter bushing is there( mine was long gone). I also widened my air gap just a slight hair while tuning the distributor. That plate that the vacuum advance hooks to that swivels(can never remember the name) gets pretty gummed up and sticks in certain positions. If you're pulling the carb, check the power piston slides easily, float level, both balls are there and in their right spots, blow some compressed air through the passages, if you broke it all the way down on the rebuild, check the gaskets that go in between the linkage part of the carb, the spacer, and the body of the carb. It's confusing to get them right and make sure the holes in the gaskets line up with the ports. Those are the thoughts that I came up with.
