Carb Insulator and Carb install question (1 Viewer)

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sleepycruiser

I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
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I bought a new carb insulator (and gasket) and a new carb Weber 32/36 from Redline Cruisers to replace my broken carb insulator and current Weber 32/36. Going on my ‘64. I’ll need the gasket for the carb to the plate, but looks easily available.

My question is…do I need to use any type of sealant on any of the gaskets? From what I have found I have seen some that do and some taht don’t.

If so, what should I use? The spray on copper sealant?

None of this can be done until I replace the manifold gasket (which I have)…but just trying to prep everything.
 
I bought a new carb insulator (and gasket) and a new carb Weber 32/36 from Redline Cruisers to replace my broken carb insulator and current Weber 32/36. Going on my ‘64. I’ll need the gasket for the carb to the plate, but looks easily available.

My question is…do I need to use any type of sealant on any of the gaskets? From what I have found I have seen some that do and some taht don’t.

If so, what should I use? The spray on copper sealant?

None of this can be done until I replace the manifold gasket (which I have)…but just trying to prep everything.
A) you shouldn’t need any goop for the insulator, it has built in gaskets (or should).

B) make sure everything is flat flat before assembly. The new Webers are known to be problematic in their quality.
 
A) you shouldn’t need any goop for the insulator, it has built in gaskets (or should).

B) make sure everything is flat flat before assembly. The new Webers are known to be problematic in their quality.
And I still have that 32/36 kit up for grabs…
 
If a gasket has any sort of fiber I soak it in warm water for like 1/2 hour - that softens it up some so the high spots can dig in easier. I try and make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat. Sometimes metal pulls up around bolt holes - stone or flat file the ridge. I like the non-drying Aviation Permatex as a sealer - very helpful to hold a gasket in place during assembly. I torque by sequence and start with 1/3 value, then 2/3 finally 100%. After a heat cycle then again in sequence at 100% Sever heat cycles R/R
 
No sealant, period. Why? because carburetors use small diameter vacuum circuits and if the RTV isn't set or it becomes dislodged, the debris can land in a vac port and cause headaches later. Dry gaskets only, nothing else.

Universal note: Can it be done in a pinch, temp, or if you really know what you're doing? Sure anything can be done in a pinch. But for 99% of folks, don't do it because it could lead to an unforeseen issue later.
 

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