Car won't start- unless I pour gas or spray carb cleaner in the carb

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hangten

hangten

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Threads
28
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119
Location
NM
I recently purchased a 1976 40. This truck sat in a barn for an entire year prior to me purchasing it. It was only driven less than 100 miles in the whole year. So far, I swapped out all the fluids and gave it a tune up- which it runs better.

When I first had it, the 40 would start up just fine- pull out the choke about 25 to 75% and turn the ignition.

Now if not driven or the engine is completely cold, my 40 will not start unless I put fuel or spray a little carb cleaner in the carb. I tried pumping the gas a few times and pulling out choke- but that does not get it started. After I get it warm and running, it starts just fine.

Also, the fuel level on the glass display on the carb is a little above the 2 screws.

Do you guys know what the issue might be?
 
I would guess new fuel filter and clean out the carb. Maybe some gunk came loose in the carb and is clogging it. Mine was doing the same thing, I took the carb off, and the top off and blasted every port I could with carb cleaner, and cleaned out the float bowl not is starts right up. Got the carb rebuild kit a few days later, but it starts so well I am holding off on that for now.
 
I'm no expert but it would sound like a spark or fuel issue?? Many others on the forum are far more knowledgeable than I am.....however......Mine sat for 12 years when I picked it up and these were some of the things I did to get it to run. Given you say you did a tune up I'm assuming that you've done these:
1). check/clean or replace the plugs - make sure you have good spark on each plug
2). Points - cleaned and gaped correctly
3). Timing
4). Fuel filter or filters
5). Replace all vacuum lines

On mine, I finally had to go with the rebuild on my carburetor and replace my idle solenoid and it runs like a champ now. Once the rebuild was complete and the float level was set correctly the fuel level remains at the center mark of the
viewing glass. Starts in all kinds of weather with an instant response.

In my case my accelerator pump was shot (this might be your problem as well) and it had the wrong jets in it.

Hope that might help. Cheers!
 
It should start without pumping though and why would the pump work when the engine is warm only?
Probably dried gaskets causing a vac leak. When things warm up it tightens up and seals.
I'd pull it and rebuild it now.
 
Double check your choke linkage, and make sure it still engages.
 
As Jim says...accel pump.

(Tip: When Jim answers a carb question... He is right... do not wonder... He is right... file it away for future reference... he is right)


Your accelerator pump is the problem.

It is not that the pump worked when things were warm and does not when things are cold. It is that the fuel vaporizes easier when temps are warm and the rig is setup and tune to the point that it could (barely) start without the extra priming of the pump. When temps dropped it could not.

It is common for debris to clog the orifice. you may be able to simply clear it with a fine wire. But it will eventually find it's way back and clog again. You can also pull the top off the carb and clear the pull wells and passages in situ. You can replace the pump plunger this way too of course. Easy to drop springs and check balls into places you do not want them to go however.


Mark...
 
everyone else beat me to the punch

the acc pump has rubber plunger type thing that cracks and goes bad after so long.

get the carb rebuilt
 
My carb had a leather pump, I took it out and checked for cracks and ran my finger around it to shape it back out so it would work again (I was doing this because I was bored and the rebuild kit was being shipped to me). Now it starts without even pumping the gas, even after sitting for a week. Close the choke turn the key and it starts right up, before I cleaned out the carb it would not even sputter without poring gas down the carb, but once started ran and idled well. I still need to rebuild it, but 10 minutes to clean it and have it make a difference was well worth it.
 
This is good info.

I will keep a carb rebuild in mind. For now, I can not spend much more $$$ on the 40. I need to spread it out... just need a quick fix before dealing with a possible carb rebuild.
 
It cost me nothing to pull the carb and jet it out with a can of carb cleaner and the red straw, well the cost of the can. I took it off so I could push the straw over the jets and other small ports and blast the cleaner all the way through it. I did not touch the needles screws, but if you pull them out counting the turn blasting those holes would be good also. You would want to do that anyway before dipping in carb cleaner to rebuild it. I think I got my carb rebuild kit for about $20 but have not used it yet, but will before putting it on the road.
 
FJ40Jim said:
The problem is the Accelerator Pump in the carb is not shooting gas into the intake when the pedal is pumped.

A carb rebuild is in the truck's future.
Click to expand...

Jim


I just rebuilt my carb and I notice that it does not stay idling at start up until it warms up. I also notice that when I turn the truck off the fuel level in the carb reservoir drops or drains. There are no signs of fuel leaks anywhere. After driving it I park it in the garage and look at the site glass on carb right after I shut it down and the level is about half level. When I go back the following morning there is no fuel level in the sight glass. It takes a couple of cranks to fill the site glass back up after which the car will idle without stalling . Do you know what the cause is to lose fuel from reservoir without any sign of leak?
 
the little hole the fuel comes out of could also be plugged you can unplug it with a small piece of stiff wire and see if it works but unless you take the carb apart and clean it it will just plug up again
 
On rigs that have sat, we first try the "dollar two ninety eight carb rebuild" (TM):hillbilly:: First drain the bowl by removing one of the jet plugs, cleanup any spill. Using carb cleaner with the extension straw, fill the bowl through one of the vent tubes, overfill to the top of the window, operate the throttle/accelerator pump a few times to get fluid in there. Allow it to work, set for a bit, clean up any mess in the throats with the carb cleaner. Start the motor, rev it, using a gloved hand, (not necessary, but if it backfires you will be glad!) close/choke the carb intake until it almost dies, open it allow to stabilize, repeat.

Closing the intake causes a big suction in the carb, combined with the cleaner, can clear blockages. By this time, the bowl will be mainly gas, so now, evaluate how it runs. Sometimes this solves all of the problems, others not, but haven't lost much, worth a try?
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
Jim


I just rebuilt my carb and I notice that it does not stay idling at start up until it warms up. I also notice that when I turn the truck off the fuel level in the carb reservoir drops or drains. There are no signs of fuel leaks anywhere. After driving it I park it in the garage and look at the site glass on carb right after I shut it down and the level is about half level. When I go back the following morning there is no fuel level in the sight glass. It takes a couple of cranks to fill the site glass back up after which the car will idle without stalling . Do you know what the cause is to lose fuel from reservoir without any sign of leak?
Click to expand...

I have the same problem... did you ever figure out a fix?
 
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