- Thread starter
- #21
Yes, i have just checked. It Is A442F. So i need 15 liters?
Car not moving - gears not engaging
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- Thread starter
- #22
Now, just to avoid overfilling rhe transmission, i added 13 liters, but it was too full going by the dipstick reading. So we had to remove 1 liter. Now i have 12 liters in.
If i could get confirmation that i have to use 15 liters, i would simply add more 3 liters to make 15 liters. I would simply ignore dipstick reading. I know this is a very risky plan.
I confirm again that i have transmission A442F.
If i could get confirmation that i have to use 15 liters, i would simply add more 3 liters to make 15 liters. I would simply ignore dipstick reading. I know this is a very risky plan.
I confirm again that i have transmission A442F.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
I don't know at what A/T fluid temperature, the A442F level set. But I suggest you find-out, and not ignore the dip stick.
hoser
SILVER Star
x2 Don't ignore the dipstick.
- Thread starter
- #25
Is it possible that the dipstick filler tube could have been installed back onto the gearbox in a wrong way such that the dipstick is giving wrong readings? Could it have been installed "too deep inside the gearbox" such that it shows higher oil level? Is that a possibility, even theoretically?
Or, is it possible that the oil has not yet settled in the system (i.e. not yet entered every part of the system) - in which case the dipstick level will reduce once oil has entered properly?
Or, is it possible that the oil has not yet settled in the system (i.e. not yet entered every part of the system) - in which case the dipstick level will reduce once oil has entered properly?
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hoser
SILVER Star
I could only guess the dipstick tube is quite specific in its install. But I can imagine the wrong dipstick in there. I can also imagine the transmission cooler (if you have one) getting eliminated from the mix and that would change capacity. And I can also imagine the transmission is NOT fully drained and perhaps why you think it needs more fluid.
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- #27
Thank you very much.
The transmission was actually fully drained - even torque converter.
I have use the car with the current dipstick for the past 6 years - and I always maintained oil at the right dipstick level without any issues.
Transmission cooler? Not quite sure how to answer that, but will ask my mechanic.
hoser
SILVER Star
How are you checking the level of the transmission fluid? Please be detailed.
- Thread starter
- #29
Okay, I am trying to follow the procedure according to guidelines.
This morning I started the car on level ground and carried out the following procedure:
With engine running, I shifted gear from P through to L and back to P. I removed, cleaned and inserted dipstick. Then I removed dipstick and read the level.
At this point, the dipstick level was about one inch above cold range. I know this could have been unnecessary, but I did it all the same.
Then I drove for about 10 miles. Engine was already at optimal temperature. I returned home and then I parked on level ground and repeated the procedure in blue above. Dipstick level was at maximum of the hot range.
hoser
SILVER Star
Your procedure sounds fine to me, granted you are checking the fluid level while the engine is running and the drivetrain is at operating temperature. I would not change the fluid level.
- Thread starter
- #31
Yes, I know the procedure very well since I started using automatic cars many years ago. It is true many people whom I know do not know the simple procedure.
2001LC
SILVER Star
If obstruction in oil cooler system. Your A/T fluid would get very hot. But, if wanting to check fluid flow. I do it after oil cooler anyway.
I suppose you could splice in a clear plastic tube, and watch flow. It would be best, splice in at last point on return line on way back to transmission.
You'll have to get know your oil cooler routing. In the USA 100 series 4.7L. The transmission "oil cooler" radiator (12"x12"), is in front of engine and condenser radiators. The top hose coming off hard pipe form oil cooler, passing through radiator support RH side of engine radiator. Is the return line, to transmission, on the same as 100 series. Provided, someone has not switched hoses, which I've seen done.
The routing is from transmission, first into left bottom of engine coolant radiator, then out RH bottom. Hose from RH bottom of radiator, attaches to hard pipe right side of engine radiator support. Hard pipe goes to oil cooler. The return hard pipe come from oil cooler, out RH top side radiator support. Hose attaches to hard pipe from oil cooler (top), that's at side of radiator passing radiator support. This hose goes back to transmission, via a hard line to attaches to.
Top hard pipe with clear plastic hose attached. Is from oil cooler returning to transmission. It's return hose is just lying unattached, during a flush.
I suppose you could splice in a clear plastic tube, and watch flow. It would be best, splice in at last point on return line on way back to transmission.
You'll have to get know your oil cooler routing. In the USA 100 series 4.7L. The transmission "oil cooler" radiator (12"x12"), is in front of engine and condenser radiators. The top hose coming off hard pipe form oil cooler, passing through radiator support RH side of engine radiator. Is the return line, to transmission, on the same as 100 series. Provided, someone has not switched hoses, which I've seen done.
The routing is from transmission, first into left bottom of engine coolant radiator, then out RH bottom. Hose from RH bottom of radiator, attaches to hard pipe right side of engine radiator support. Hard pipe goes to oil cooler. The return hard pipe come from oil cooler, out RH top side radiator support. Hose attaches to hard pipe from oil cooler (top), that's at side of radiator passing radiator support. This hose goes back to transmission, via a hard line to attaches to.
Top hard pipe with clear plastic hose attached. Is from oil cooler returning to transmission. It's return hose is just lying unattached, during a flush.
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- Thread starter
- #35
Indeed, yesterday they found the oil too hot when draining the "excess" 1 liter after driving about 8 miles. It is possible the oil is not cooling. I think we need to follow this argument and check for possible blockage in oil cooler.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Best way to check A/T #1 fluid temp, is with/through Tech Stream (TS). But one can shoot pan with IR temp gun. Holding gun within 3" of center of pan. In shop with concert floor at about 70F. We see pan temperature read about 2-3f degrees lower, than actual A/T #1 fluid temp.
In the USA newer transmission, we get A/T temp #1 and A/T temp #2 in TS. We use #1 to set level.
In the USA newer transmission, we get A/T temp #1 and A/T temp #2 in TS. We use #1 to set level.
- Thread starter
- #37
I did not know that Techstream can read At fluid temp. I will borrow Techstream tomorrow and give a try.
- Thread starter
- #38
I am quite dependant on my mechanic to do any kind of checks. Still waiting to check for transmission oil cooler blockage and oil temperature.
Meanwhile, i notice that the air intake is not sucking air as it should. Usually, i test by putting the car in Park and revving engine high. At the same time i put my hand about an inch away from the air intake (snorkel). Under normal conditions, my hand would be pulled to the snorkel by a lot of force as i rev engine. Right now, there is no force generated.
Could this point to another problem other than transmission? A similar problem with air intake happened long time ago and we found the mechanics had not clamped the air intake. It was then sorted by clamping. Just now, I have checked and all clamps are ok.
Meanwhile, i notice that the air intake is not sucking air as it should. Usually, i test by putting the car in Park and revving engine high. At the same time i put my hand about an inch away from the air intake (snorkel). Under normal conditions, my hand would be pulled to the snorkel by a lot of force as i rev engine. Right now, there is no force generated.
Could this point to another problem other than transmission? A similar problem with air intake happened long time ago and we found the mechanics had not clamped the air intake. It was then sorted by clamping. Just now, I have checked and all clamps are ok.
- Thread starter
- #39
I think the air intake issue is not related to the transmission issue. It appears one of the mechanics (while working on the transmission) tried to remove the air cleaner box by loosening the clamps on both sides. Both ends were open, hence affecting air suction. I fixed that and power improved tremendously, but erratic gear changes is still much and affecting performance.
I have not tested oil temperature since I have not yet got Techstream.
Also, mechanic says oil is flowing to the cooler (though he just made a visual inspection). He says that in any case, the cooler carries very little oil. I had thought the cooler could account for about 3 liters of our mysterious oil balance that we would have to add to make a total of 15 liters for transmission type A442F.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You've twice mentioned "TO". Need to make sure following "from" also. Which I likely is, but needs checking.
Your mechanic should be able to read A/T temp.
I find it interesting your A/T temp range, as posted above, so wide (50-80C ((122f-176F)). The difference in level from 122f to 176F, would be a lot. IIDK, but perhaps a ~1L.
Your mechanic should be able to read A/T temp.
I find it interesting your A/T temp range, as posted above, so wide (50-80C ((122f-176F)). The difference in level from 122f to 176F, would be a lot. IIDK, but perhaps a ~1L.
