Car not moving - gears not engaging (4 Viewers)

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Joined
Aug 16, 2023
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26
Messages
217
Location
Kampala
All was pretty well before. Suddenly, the reverse gear failed. Then all gears failed. So i am unable to move the car.

But it appears that after parking for some hours, it can engage the gears just for a short while.

Gear box oil is ok. I had even drained and replaced it about 3000 miles ago.

Ironically, AHC and double (hazard) indicator also failed. Not sure how they are related.

I had to tow the car home.

As i wait for a mechanic to come, i would appreciate any insights into what could be the problem. Thank you.
 
My first thought would be the drive flange and CV axle splines being worn. That will make axle spin but tires going nowhere. Can remove axle dust cap to take a look. Not sure how that would relate to other issues failing, however.
 
I'm thinking tranny...

Is it super cold where you are? I ask only because I experienced difficulty in going forward in drive while reverse worked okay
AND it was really cold. Almost like fluid was having trouble circulating through the clutches or torque converter so soon after
firing her up.

But my occurrence was one and done.

EDIT: If you're in Kampala, Uganda then I've answered my own question.... :rofl:

Check ATF for scorching...
 
Engage CDL. If FDS (AKA CV) or hub flange, has failed. Engaging CDL, will allow you to drive/move.
 
If hub flanges are stripped, then it is a long term immobility compared to what he said about parked for a few hours and then it can move. The reverse gear is the first to fail in an automatic transmission. Did you use the correct fluid when you first did the flush?
 
"appears" that after parking for some hours, it can engage the gears just for a "short while."

Perhaps. But if snap ring popped off. The FDS will move in and out, engage and disengage hub flange. If OP happen to turn steering wheel even a little, or rolled a little or just came to stop from a roll. It may have engaged. Time may not have been a factor.

Pushing CDL on, will give a quick yes or no.
 
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Thanks all for the insightful responses.

As a non-mechanic, some of the suggestions made can only be tried when my mechanic comes over - in the next two or so hours. I will share with him the messages.

Meanwhile, I tried the car this morning. Starts normally, but not moving at all (even after about 8 hours of rest). G/box oil looks perfect. Normal temperature here is average 30 deg Celsius. Coldest is probably in the region of 20 deg.

AHC is back in operation without any intervention.

Hazard lights still not working. I guess maybe some blown fuse somewhere ...

Will be updating you. Many thanks.
 
Did you push the CDL button?
 
Center differential lock button. Press number (1) and the lights should be solid.... maybe not immediately but after a short time.

instrumentPanel.2.jpg
 
Center differential lock button. Press number (1) and the lights should be solid.... maybe not immediately but after a short time.

instrumentPanel.2.jpg
Yes, that was one of the first things i tried when the problem just happened. At one point, it helped me move slowly over some 100 meters yesterday before towing.

NOTE: Right now, pressing CDL button is of no help.
 
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Turns out the gearbox clutches were spoilt. Although oil looked good on dipstick, it was quite bad inside.

So we replaced the clutches and installed back gearbox. Put new oil, but gears are not changing properly. Mechanic says it okay as air may still be inside the system. That it will eventually disappear and things will normalize. Does this make sense?

Meanwhile we first added 11.4 liters of D2 transmission oil (as recommended), but dispstick level was low, so we added another 1 liter. Now total of 12.5 liters. Is this possibly dangerous?
 
Transmission fluid is checked engine running, after shifting through all gears while in N or P. In the 3spd w/OD 350 transmission, fluid temperature needs to be 158F min - 176F max. I like closer to 158F.

Since we must get temperature of fluid, up and shift through all gears. Which takes time with transmission running under load. I don't see how any air pockets would remain.

~12qts (11.36L) is capacity. But he would have not likely drain the torque convert. So 12.5 L is a lot.
 
Transmission fluid is checked engine running, after shifting through all gears while in N or P. In the 3spd w/OD 350 transmission, fluid temperature needs to be 158F min - 176F max. I like closer to 158F.

Since we must get temperature of fluid, up and shift through all gears. Which takes time with transmission running under load. I don't see how any air pockets would remain.

~12qts (11.36L) is capacity. But he would have not likely drain the torque convert. So 12.5 L is a lot.
Everything was completely drained, including torque converter.

Yes, fluid is checked while engine is running, and we follow that, except we were measuring while car was in sort of a slope.

I haven't driven much (maybe only about 10 miles and slowly) for fear of damaging gearbox.
 
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Everything was completely drained, including torque converter.

Yes, fluid is checked while engine is running, and we follow that, except we were measuring while car was in sort of a slope.

I haven't driven much (maybe only about 10 miles and slowly) for fear of damaging gearbox.
Must be level, also.
 
I am having a rather difficult argument with my mechanic.

As noted earlier, upon re-installing the gearbox, we first added 11.4 liters of D2 transmission oil (as recommended), but the dispstick level was low (measured from an uneven ground). Mechanic says the ground terrain does not matter. Nonetheless, the mechanic insisted that we add more. So, we added another 1 liter (though the mechanic recommended more 1.5 liters).

Because we had driven a bit after adding just the first 11.4 liters, the mechanic says that the clutches got burnt during this short ride because 11.4 liters was too little oil for the car. I respectfully disagreed, but my mechanic would not listen.

So, now we are opening the gearbox again amidst a lot of frustration and blame game.
 
Dry 11.7L (12 USA qts) is capacity, in USA 3spd w/OD. I assume you've the same automatic transmission A343F. 0.2L under fill, will not harm the transmission.
 
Since you have the diesel engine, there's a good chance you have the A442F transmission. It'll say on your data plate in the engine compartment. If so, capacity is 15 liters (15.9 qts)
 
This
Since you have the diesel engine, there's a good chance you have the A442F transmission. It'll say on your data plate in the engine compartment. If so, capacity is 15 liters (15.9 qts)
Thanks. This is complete news to me. I never thought of anything like that.

I would appreciate any additional information on this by you or anyone else. This might be the reason i am having issues because so far i have added only 12.5 liters.
 
Your Data plate. Check it or take a picture.
 

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