- Thread starter
- #61
Car keep stalling. No codes. Ideas? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jczajka
- Start date
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If the throttle motor and/or clutch are not operational, you should still have normal throttle control as a backup. The ECTS-i system is not needed to run the engine. Here is a wealth of information: http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota...raining/01 - Engine and Engine Control/08.pdf
Is the engine only stalling at idle? If so, does it get better if you give it a little gas? That may indicate that the ECTS-i system is having a hard time controlling the idle speed.
Since you have Techstream up and running, are you able to read out the 'accelerator POS' and 'throttle POS' signals and do they make sense? What about the 'throttle motor' and 'magnetic clutch' currents? If you look at the 'Fuel Trims' that will be very helpful as well.
Is the engine only stalling at idle? If so, does it get better if you give it a little gas? That may indicate that the ECTS-i system is having a hard time controlling the idle speed.
Since you have Techstream up and running, are you able to read out the 'accelerator POS' and 'throttle POS' signals and do they make sense? What about the 'throttle motor' and 'magnetic clutch' currents? If you look at the 'Fuel Trims' that will be very helpful as well.
- Thread starter
- #63
Tha
That's great info. I'll hook up Techstream once I get it all buttoned up.
Engine def stalls at idle or when idle gets lower, but also happens when driving. The idle will just dip and then I stomp on the pedal a few times and no response before it finally kicks in.
That's great info. I'll hook up Techstream once I get it all buttoned up.
Engine def stalls at idle or when idle gets lower, but also happens when driving. The idle will just dip and then I stomp on the pedal a few times and no response before it finally kicks in.
- Thread starter
- #64
Got it all back together, with new MAF, some new/tightened down vacuum hoses and some new fusible links.
Tried twice to start it and nothing. Third time started up strong.
Ran for 3 minutes or so parked and then just died while idling in Park.
Going to get Techstream hooked up and see what's going on
Tried twice to start it and nothing. Third time started up strong.
Ran for 3 minutes or so parked and then just died while idling in Park.
Going to get Techstream hooked up and see what's going on
- Thread starter
- #65
Just drove around the neighborhood and same symptoms. Step hard on the has and idle jumps all around or the car stalls. Died 5 time just driving around for a few minutes. High RPM with a WOT pedal stomp almost instantly kills it.
- Thread starter
- #66
Throttle Motor was making some louder buzzing noises that didn't sound great. Going to throw my Advance Auto motor in and see how it goes.
Having read the pdf whitelx posted in #62, shouldn’t the truck go into limp mode if the motor or magnetic clutch are defective?
- Thread starter
- #69
New Throttle Control Motor fixed it!
Maybe...
Pulled the motor housing to install the Advanced Auto TCM. Got that installed, but couldn't get the housing in and get the TPS engaged and clocked correctly, so I removed the TPS. Dropped on of the TPS screws and spent 45 mins looking for it on the ground and in my skid plate, before giving up. Grabbed some 4mm hex head bolts from my bike parts bins and back in business!
Took a couple tries and the truck started, but was reving up and down on its own. A rhythmic, Vroom, Vroom, Vroom, Vroom... The truck was also running super rich, I could tell just by the smell. Pulled the throttle cable to manually open the throttle and no change. Pull the connectors to the APPS, TPS, and TCM and no change. Of course it threw codes for all those sensors.
I cleared the codes (love my new Scangauge) and adjusted the TPS again. This time it was still a little off, but a pull of the throttle cable settled everything in.
Went for a test drive and everything worked just as it should. No fluctuation in idle, no lag in pedal response, floored it WOT and the truck just went. No stalling or weird idling at all. All symptoms gone.
So the Throttle Control Motor fixed it, OR adjusting the TPS fixed it, but I think it was the motor since it was testing outside of the acceptable range. I tested my original motor and there is continuity on both sets of contacts and the motor and clutch work. The motor doesn't sound great, but I tested it with a 9v battery because that's what I had available. Could my idle have just been set wrong the entire time from the TPS? I never had the truck go into limp mode @white_lx @Ninja Cruiser100
Now I need to adjust my TPS to get my idle set correctly I think. It looks like it's supposed to be adjusted in neutral. In park, my idle and TP are a hair low. Super late now, so I'll mess with that in the morning.
Still leaking coolant like crazy and was going to fix when my parts show up Monday, but now it looks like it might be coming from the A/C condenser and not the radiator... glad I put away a bunch of money for base lining and repairs!
Maybe...
Pulled the motor housing to install the Advanced Auto TCM. Got that installed, but couldn't get the housing in and get the TPS engaged and clocked correctly, so I removed the TPS. Dropped on of the TPS screws and spent 45 mins looking for it on the ground and in my skid plate, before giving up. Grabbed some 4mm hex head bolts from my bike parts bins and back in business!
Took a couple tries and the truck started, but was reving up and down on its own. A rhythmic, Vroom, Vroom, Vroom, Vroom... The truck was also running super rich, I could tell just by the smell. Pulled the throttle cable to manually open the throttle and no change. Pull the connectors to the APPS, TPS, and TCM and no change. Of course it threw codes for all those sensors.
I cleared the codes (love my new Scangauge) and adjusted the TPS again. This time it was still a little off, but a pull of the throttle cable settled everything in.
Went for a test drive and everything worked just as it should. No fluctuation in idle, no lag in pedal response, floored it WOT and the truck just went. No stalling or weird idling at all. All symptoms gone.
So the Throttle Control Motor fixed it, OR adjusting the TPS fixed it, but I think it was the motor since it was testing outside of the acceptable range. I tested my original motor and there is continuity on both sets of contacts and the motor and clutch work. The motor doesn't sound great, but I tested it with a 9v battery because that's what I had available. Could my idle have just been set wrong the entire time from the TPS? I never had the truck go into limp mode @white_lx @Ninja Cruiser100
Now I need to adjust my TPS to get my idle set correctly I think. It looks like it's supposed to be adjusted in neutral. In park, my idle and TP are a hair low. Super late now, so I'll mess with that in the morning.
Still leaking coolant like crazy and was going to fix when my parts show up Monday, but now it looks like it might be coming from the A/C condenser and not the radiator... glad I put away a bunch of money for base lining and repairs!
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Nice. I applaud your focus and determination.
- Thread starter
- #71
@Ninja Cruiser100 Thanks. It was time consuming, but glad I got to the bottom of it. This forum is the best. I appreciate the wealth of knowledge and support here.
I have a much more intimate understanding of my truck now.
Found plenty while I was digging around. There is a coolant leak that I now believe is coming from the A/C condenser instead of the radiator. Wasn't planning for that, so I'll need to research that now. I also definitely need new suspension bushings everywhere. My fiber reinforced skid plate has two thumbs broken off and missing can vers from the front skid plate. Add that to the list broken third brake light, power steering that needs new hoses, cleaning, & flushing, and fixing my AHC that is totally out of wack.
So I have my hands full for a while.
I have a much more intimate understanding of my truck now.
Found plenty while I was digging around. There is a coolant leak that I now believe is coming from the A/C condenser instead of the radiator. Wasn't planning for that, so I'll need to research that now. I also definitely need new suspension bushings everywhere. My fiber reinforced skid plate has two thumbs broken off and missing can vers from the front skid plate. Add that to the list broken third brake light, power steering that needs new hoses, cleaning, & flushing, and fixing my AHC that is totally out of wack.
So I have my hands full for a while.
Look on ebay for a new rear splash guard. It comes from china. $160 shipped. I waited on here for months for a used one to pop up.
The condenser cant leak coolant, only refrigerant. The rad is probably cracked and spraying on the condenser but you already have a new one on the way right?
Having fun yet?!?!
Hit up all the parting out threads for a good used third brake light
The condenser cant leak coolant, only refrigerant. The rad is probably cracked and spraying on the condenser but you already have a new one on the way right?
Having fun yet?!?!
Hit up all the parting out threads for a good used third brake light
- Thread starter
- #73
Look on ebay for a new rear splash guard. It comes from china. $160 shipped. I waited on here for months for a used one to pop up.
The condenser cant leak coolant, only refrigerant. The rad is probably cracked and spraying on the condenser but you already have a new one on the way right?
Having fun yet?!?!
Hit up all the parting out threads for a good used third brake light
Yeah! Way into it.
You're right, leaky rad must just be blowing on the condenser. Now that I read your sentence, I realize my mistake. New rad arriving tomorrow.
I already got my used brake light from Cruiser parts.net and started removing the old gasket. The heater from my solder rework station and a plastic scraper made quick work of the job. Butyl tape already on hand, just waiting for it to stop pouring rain!
I'm going to save some eBay searches for the splash guard. I did a quick eBay/Craigslist check and nothing right now.
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The one i bought. Came pretty quick. About a week. Didnt see if this one is still active
- Thread starter
- #75
I'm seeing $180.40 shipped. Is it the same material as OE?
I made an offer of 160. Looks like it went up a bit. Still an amazing price shipped. No i think its pure ABS where OEM has the fiber mixed into it or some other material. Good enough for me though
- Thread starter
- #77
Word!
