Not sure how to test them onboard, perhaps someone else can chime in.
Car keep stalling. No codes. Ideas? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jczajka
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Back at it.
Went to ch check sensors and wires. Cleaned up some ground points while I was at it.
There is an unused connector in a wire loom under the battery by the drivers for light. It is super corroded. No idea if that has anything to do with this, butt seems like water and/or battery acid caused this.
Still testing stuff.
Went to ch check sensors and wires. Cleaned up some ground points while I was at it.
There is an unused connector in a wire loom under the battery by the drivers for light. It is super corroded. No idea if that has anything to do with this, butt seems like water and/or battery acid caused this.
Still testing stuff.
- Thread starter
- #23
The seals on top are all a little crusty. Somehow I don't think it's that. There is a major thing going on I believe.
- Thread starter
- #24
What is this crusty unused connector for? Can I remove/replace?
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Maybe the unused connector is for a headlight washer?
- Thread starter
- #27
Maybe?
My fogs are plugged in and work. They use a smaller connector.
No similar wire bundle or connector on the passenger side, only the crusty ones on the driver side.
Are these the wires / connectors everyone is talking about by the belts? Mine seem fine and nowhere near the belts. Not sure how to pull them all the way out to check.
- Thread starter
- #29
just checked the crankshaft position senor and measured 1074 ohm. So I dont think thats bad.
Not sure what else to test or how at this point.
Not sure what else to test or how at this point.
If I am not wrong this black connector could be the one which plugs into AC condenser relay. I believe 98-99 had condenser fans. Bottom picture is what mine looks like, I just bought a relay and will try to plug that in to fix my condenser fan problem. It stays on even if I turn off the engine.
- Thread starter
- #31
Hmmm, ok. I'll check that out.
- Thread starter
- #32
So I think that its probably TPS / APPS related at this point.
All my testing and research is leading me to that.
New MAF, clean throttle body, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new Denso plugs, new Denso coils, yet still dropping RPM, lack of pedal response, and stalling.
I've dug around for a while but cant seem to find anything on how to test the TPS or test the APPS to see if they are bad.
Any way to test those individual parts before I just go buy them to see if its what I need?
All my testing and research is leading me to that.
New MAF, clean throttle body, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new Denso plugs, new Denso coils, yet still dropping RPM, lack of pedal response, and stalling.
I've dug around for a while but cant seem to find anything on how to test the TPS or test the APPS to see if they are bad.
Any way to test those individual parts before I just go buy them to see if its what I need?
That's the one, and that looks fine.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Download the FSM, there are testing procedures in there for the TPS and APPS.
- Thread starter
- #35
Not sure where the test is, and have to run for a bit. But the whole thing is here: 2004 TLC FSM
It's for a 2004, though. Some will apply to yours, some not (not sure about TPS/APPS)
Edit: more to be found here: Factory Service Manual ( FSM)
It's for a 2004, though. Some will apply to yours, some not (not sure about TPS/APPS)
Edit: more to be found here: Factory Service Manual ( FSM)
- Thread starter
- #37
yeah, actually just found that.
Looking at the test for the Throttle Body and the valves on the Vapor Canister now.
Of course I think to test this stuff now that I have my car all torn apart, no air intake in, fuses and battery pulled, etc.
- Thread starter
- #38
The APPS test for the 2004 is a sensor at the pedal.
I need to test in engine. hmmm
I need to test in engine. hmmm
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
The 98-02's have throttle cables, the 03-07 are drive by wire.
- Thread starter
- #40
Couple interesting things:
-New re-man MAF measures 2.51kohm (range 2.19-2.67)
-Old MAF 2.21kohm, so close to the end of acceptable level
-EFI relay checks out and works fine.
-Fuel pump resistor is good.. MAYBE. Mine measures 00.8ohms, but my multimeter could be rounding up since it doesn't do any lower.
2004 FSM states 0.70-0.76ohms as acceptible range. So maybe mine is bad. need a 2000 FSM to be certain
-APPS resistance 1.66 ohm. No idea if thats good or bad since the FSM is for 2004, but that states good is 0.3-100ohm. so???
-Coolant temp sensor measures 2.92kohm, with it being 68 degrees out, so that fall right in the middle of the curve for acceptable.
-Check my vapor canister valves on top of the engine and on top of the canister and the both work when energized and are not faulting to ground.
-Didn't check my Vapor Pressure Sensor on the top of my canister since power isnt hooked up.
Just need to figure out how to test the TPS for a 2000 LX now.
Need to test fuel pump, so going to pull carpet and check that out now.
Next step is TPS from Autozone (they have one and Toyota/Lexus dont but would have had it at 9am tomorrow if I ordered before 4pm [and paid the Dealer premium price]), and to but some more vacuum line.
IF its not TPS, then its canister/fuel as my next thought. I always get a big his from the gas cap when I remove it and I know these years have vapor canister issues. Other than that I'm out of guesses
-New re-man MAF measures 2.51kohm (range 2.19-2.67)
-Old MAF 2.21kohm, so close to the end of acceptable level
-EFI relay checks out and works fine.
-Fuel pump resistor is good.. MAYBE. Mine measures 00.8ohms, but my multimeter could be rounding up since it doesn't do any lower.
2004 FSM states 0.70-0.76ohms as acceptible range. So maybe mine is bad. need a 2000 FSM to be certain
-APPS resistance 1.66 ohm. No idea if thats good or bad since the FSM is for 2004, but that states good is 0.3-100ohm. so???
-Coolant temp sensor measures 2.92kohm, with it being 68 degrees out, so that fall right in the middle of the curve for acceptable.
-Check my vapor canister valves on top of the engine and on top of the canister and the both work when energized and are not faulting to ground.
-Didn't check my Vapor Pressure Sensor on the top of my canister since power isnt hooked up.
Just need to figure out how to test the TPS for a 2000 LX now.
Need to test fuel pump, so going to pull carpet and check that out now.
Next step is TPS from Autozone (they have one and Toyota/Lexus dont but would have had it at 9am tomorrow if I ordered before 4pm [and paid the Dealer premium price]), and to but some more vacuum line.
IF its not TPS, then its canister/fuel as my next thought. I always get a big his from the gas cap when I remove it and I know these years have vapor canister issues. Other than that I'm out of guesses
