Builds Cape Town Troop Carrier CTTC (1 Viewer)

[goexplore]

Not the most elegant solution, but works well. Remember that solar panels need an air gap to stay cool to work efficiently. A regular grommet is mounted under the panels and through the roof and sealed off with sicaflex, had never leaked.
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A friend of mine glued flexible panels (sailing boat type) to his westfalia bus (slightly slanted forwards on his alcove top) and had to replace them twice. The third time a solar panel expert told him that the flexible panels can't cope with the pressure of driving wind... no idea if it's true, just putting it out there.

Do the cables go through the roof top?

I had planned on mounting the panels on some corrugated plastic sheet, but wondered about if it may degrade too fast in the hot Middle Eastern sun.

 

[Paulrotterdam]

Do the cables go through the roof top?

I had planned on mounting the panels on some corrugated plastic sheet, but wondered about if it may degrade too fast in the hot Middle Eastern sun.

View attachment 2035370

Do the cables go through the roof top?

I had planned on mounting the panels on some corrugated plastic sheet, but wondered about if it may degrade too fast in the hot Middle Eastern sun.

View attachment 2035370

Can't take a photo as the grommet is under the panel, but it's similar to this grommet which has been used for the outside spot light. The grommets are through the roof.

 

[svsisu]

Those types of grommets are more commonly (correctly) called cable glands and are waterproof if installed correctly. They are readily available through marine supply stores (maybe difficult in Dubai) or specialty electronic shops. Based on my experience with solar panels on boats you are much better off installing rigid panels. Power output per price and size is significantly better, and they last much longer. The frame (usually) gives enough of an air gap to provide the necessary heat dissipation. I have had success using 3M VHB tape for mounting on boats that are used in extreme ocean conditions.

PM me if want more specific info on the cable glands. I really like the idea of going through the snorkel vs through the roof.

 

[goexplore]

Without trying to hijack Troepadoer's thread, this is probably the preferred suggestion for cable routing without drilling holes.

I decided to go for the semi-flexible panels mainly for weight and height. The flexible panes are only 2kg per 100w, whereas the rigid panels were around 17kg each. I've been using one for a couple of years to charge a Goal Zero Yeti and it's worked very well. I've got plenty of space for 200w of panels in the front of the roof without adding additional height to the vehicle (they won't sit above the roof bar rails.

 

[Troepadoer]

I recently installed the AlucCab on a bj75. I'm interested to know how or if you split the access door into two pieces so you can go downstairs without having to wake your partner.

Hi Rodney!

We cut the old platform in half, welded in square tubing on the new edges, and covered them with carpet so that they will not squeek.

Each platform got a second hinge.

We added a small piece of aluminium angle in the middle of the bed platform for the two 'new' platforms to rest on.

I hope these are helping!
Alet

 

[wildphoto]

Definitely helping, Alet.

Makes me want to get the angle grinder out.

 

[umpqua]

Hey yes, Alet....thank you very much. I see how you did it now. Brilliant! This is going to make a difference for me. Thank you!

 

[umpqua]

Hi there. I was re-reading through the thread as I'm about to have an under the truck water tank installed. Somewhere along the way I thought I read more in your postings about water filters, etc. Didn't see it so I'll keep looking.

A couple of follow ups are that AluCab was quite responsive on the bed struts. You will recall that I wrote that they the bed platform fell down a couple of times. They sent heavier struts and so far it seems to have solved the problem. I'll know for sure when the weather gets colder.

Also, a local welder made the steps in the photo and then I had them rhino lined. The steps are a little narrower than I (and my dog) would like but after using them for the last several months I really like them. They are wide enough and easy to find with my feet when I back out now that I'm used to them. The stairs have no overhang when in the up position. Well constructed.

 

[RFB]

Without trying to hijack Troepadoer's thread, this is probably the preferred suggestion for cable routing without drilling holes.

View attachment 2035532


I decided to go for the semi-flexible panels mainly for weight and height. The flexible panes are only 2kg per 100w, whereas the rigid panels were around 17kg each. I've been using one for a couple of years to charge a Goal Zero Yeti and it's worked very well. I've got plenty of space for 200w of panels in the front of the roof without adding additional height to the vehicle (they won't sit above the roof bar rails.

Thats a great idea Ive come down the snorkel then into fender but running inside snorkel is a solid option too.

 

[umpqua]

Hi Theo,

They mounted the front bracket through the stub left from the rib running overhead just behind the passenger's head, and the other on the back corner of the tent. Both brackets are just attached to the outside skin of the bottom half of new roof.

View attachment 1279393
Front bracket

View attachment 1279394
Rear bracket

The awning originally opened too low over the small rear door, but they gave me an extra pole for the rightside corner to lift the last "arm" and now the door will not catch the arm when open.

I love the size of the awning. It will be very handy when cooking behind the car.

I'm having the exact same issue with the awing hitting the small door. Thanks to you I sent an email to the US dealer asking about another pole. The issue that I may experience with that though is that I put lights in the awning arms which I "really" like which may not allow for the pole to attach to the arm when not in use. View attachment 2130794View attachment 2130795View attachment 2130794View attachment 2130795

 

[Troepadoer]

Hi Umpqua! Please excuse the pic I am using to explain (because our campsite looks like the backyard of a pawnshop ) We just put up fairylights which we string through cuphooks my husband added to the ends of each swingarm. We travel on corrugated roads more than 50% of the time, and I was worried that the fabric of the awning might chafe on anything added to the arms while folded into the bag. We also find that the mozzies and bugs tend to stay on the outside of the awning with the lights on the perimeter.

Cheers for now!

 

[Troepadoer]

Hi there. I was re-reading through the thread as I'm about to have an under the truck water tank installed. Somewhere along the way I thought I read more in your postings about water filters, etc. Didn't see it so I'll keep looking.

A couple of follow ups are that AluCab was quite responsive on the bed struts. You will recall that I wrote that they the bed platform fell down a couple of times. They sent heavier struts and so far it seems to have solved the problem. I'll know for sure when the weather gets colder.

Also, a local welder made the steps in the photo and then I had them rhino lined. The steps are a little narrower than I (and my dog) would like but after using them for the last several months I really like them. They are wide enough and easy to find with my feet when I back out now that I'm used to them. The stairs have no overhang when in the up position. Well constructed. View attachment 2130711View attachment 2130712

I L O V E the steps!!! Think we will try to copy this idea on our side of the Atlantic!

 

[umpqua]

Hi Umpqua! Please excuse the pic I am using to explain (because our campsite looks like the backyard of a pawnshop ) We just put up fairylights which we string through cuphooks my husband added to the ends of each swingarm. We travel on corrugated roads more than 50% of the time, and I was worried that the fabric of the awning might chafe on anything added to the arms while folded into the bag. We also find that the mozzies and bugs tend to stay on the outside of the awning with the lights on the perimeter.

View attachment 2131150

Cheers for now!

Funny. Either that or a yard sale. I could give you a run for your money.

I like the lights in the awning as it's one less thing to keep up with. I have both red and white lights that operate independently. The white lights are good for cooking and the red lights don't seem to attract as many bugs. I haven't noticed anything chaffing the awning....yet. I did sent an email to the U.S. Alucab distributor about the pole. Hopefully they can/will send me one. Not keen on having to use it and it seems like a design flaw. I'll have to figure out a place to keep it if it can't be used with my lights. Another thing to carry.

Can't remember.....do you guys have any storage boxes on your roof? If so, do the struts hold the top up with the extra weight? I'm thinking about putting the spare on top (I have an extra fuel tank under) and having a box made for where the spare mounts on the rear. Having a hard time getting my hear wrapped around having the spare on top. Thoughts?

 

[Troepadoer]

At the moment we have nothing on the roof, and my husband is adamant that we will only! carry the solar panel, although I think storing a table up there is not a bad idea. We had a near fatal incident with a loaded roof rack on our Prado, bursting a tire @ 120 km/h. We were carrying a Howling Moon RTT, the spare and 2 jerry cans, and I only kept the car in the road by grace. We also found that it was a big hassle to get the spare down from the roof, and then having to put the blown tire back on the roof.

Pic taken in Western Zambia in September 2004

 

[Troepadoer]

I am sooooo almost done with the woodwork for the new setup, and can't wait to finally install it over the next few weeks. Here are a few pics of some of the finished boxes.

The fridge

A quick fit to judge heights

View attachment 2131469
Fitting puzzle pieces together

My first try at wood curving...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That bent ply is sexy!

 

[Troepadoer]

Hallo from a scorching hot Kalahari (today is 48 C and yesterday was 50 C - that's 122 F ). We have not made much progress since my last update because we became grand parents for the first time , and so the Troopy was severely upstaged. But at last we managed to fit all the boxes, and I am VERY relieved that they fit.

View attachment 2184469

We also finished the curved doors for the cubbies at the back, but we have hit a snag

Because we have used 12mm plywood, we are not having any joy finding hinges for this particular stock. The "wings" on any hinge that is strong enough, is too wide, and the ones that we found to fit the stock was so poorly made that I could bend the whole hinge with my fingers so they will not work AT ALL! Can anyone help us with suggestions for the right kind of hinge to use, please???

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

 

[Troepadoer]

 

[Don Lacer]

I think that is why I went with 18mm Birch plywood, even though it is really heavy. I'm using friction hinges from Southco. This is the one that I'm using, but Southco has so many to choose from. You might have a look at their catalog.

Hinges - Southco

www.southco.com

 

[wildphoto]

Looking good.

I think we need to arrange a "show and tell" gathering in the Cape, where we can all spy on what everyone else is doing!