I cann't remove the fill plug in the transfer case by using a 24mm socket. The 24mm socket works out pretty good on removing the fill&drain plugs on the rear differential case. I am not sure whether the dealer overtighted the fill plug when it did the last oil change. But I just cann't remove it even though I hammer the wrench. It's not the way I worked on the rear differential-case on which the plugs being removed easily. Any suggestions?
Cann't remove transfer case filler plug (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter STEVEN XU
- Start date
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Breaker bar.
Breaker bar and cheater pipe.
If something breaks or the bolt rounds off. Take it to a shop, have them weld on a nut, then try the above again.
Breaker bar and cheater pipe.
If something breaks or the bolt rounds off. Take it to a shop, have them weld on a nut, then try the above again.
jonharis
Adventure Imports
Breaker bar and make damn sure you are using a 6pt socket.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the reply. Actually the plug head is a little bit rounded off. A 24mm open-end wrench cann't even grap it. I think about to chisel the plug unlocked , but that would damage it. Can I use a after-market to replace the OEM plug? Is there any specificial for the OEM fill plug?
WHy not just get an OEM plug to replace it?
I don't think they are too expensive.
If it has started to round off, i would just take it to a shop and have a nut welded on, and have them break the fill plug loose, then tighten it back. Then take it home and do the change.
Hopefully you found this out before you drained it...?
You might give a standard wrench a try.
Do not remember what a 24mm = inch wise, but it's worth a shot.
Try the next size down and you may have to gently tap it on to get a grip.
Also, I believe you can go buy a special wrench head that bites down specifically for rounded heads. Here in TX we have tractor supply stores or something like it for this work.
Do not remember what a 24mm = inch wise, but it's worth a shot.
Try the next size down and you may have to gently tap it on to get a grip.
Also, I believe you can go buy a special wrench head that bites down specifically for rounded heads. Here in TX we have tractor supply stores or something like it for this work.
a rounded bolt head is the perfect opportunity to hammer an old socket on there, then apply impact wrench (i have an electric, works good). i've used this methods a couple times, you will surprise you how fast it will come off.
more info: chisle the sides a bit so the socket can get a good seat onto the bolt. and you'll obviously want a new plug
more info: chisle the sides a bit so the socket can get a good seat onto the bolt. and you'll obviously want a new plug
Last edited by a moderator:
- Thread starter
- #9
The head of OEM fill plug is too thin to be properly gripped by a socket. That is the reason I think about a after-market fill plug.
In a conservative way, I prefer to let a workshop removing the plug since I don't want to damage the T-case.
- Thread starter
- #10
Have you ever try a 7/8' socket before? A post in this forum once mentioned this size of socket. I don't have a 7/8' socket , but it won't bother me to give it a shot before I bring the rig to the workshop.
jonharis
Adventure Imports
hence a 6pt socket.STEVEN XU said:
Slightly off topic, but the one you really don't want to get screwed up is the front. Because they're 10mm hex sockets and the 'bolt' is flush with the case you don't have many options.
A bit of heat can help, if you have an oxy close by.
- Thread starter
- #15
Got the fill plug removed by myself eventually. All the tips got from this forum were helpful. I figured out the issue was that the dealer's mechanic overtighted the plug and had not put new gasket on in the past every oil change. The gasket is edge up, acting as an anti-rotation washer. I flated the gasket edge, tapped the plug, warmed up the T-case by driving the vehicle for a while, then loosened it by using 24mm 6-point-contact socket. The drain plug was removed without any difficulty. 
