Cannot remove Tough Dog Rear Shock 45mm (Passenger side) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 9, 2018
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Location
Los Angeles, CA
So I was able to get the driver side off no problem. But I cannot remove the passenger side. I'm able to reach the top nut, I grip the black dust shield to hold onto the shock and turn the nut, the dust shield is spinning freely from the shock. Any idea of how I can grip the shock beside the dust shield?
Updated Pic. What is a good tool to hold the stud while I turn the nut? (11/12mm wrench is either too big or too small.)
jehu2PN.jpg
 
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Look at the top of the shock - isn't there a way to put a box end wrench on the stud to stop it from turning? I may be wrong but I thought I saw that on my 45mm TD's...
 
Ratcheting spanner on the big nut & a small open ended spanner (maybe 10mm) on the stud above the nut to hold it in place. It's the funnest job on an LC:)
 
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I agree on ratchet spanner and I took out the spare and reached up over the axle. Some folks have drilled a socket sized hole from the top and then put in a cap. I have a full storage platform so that’s not for me.
 
Look at the top of the shock - isn't there a way to put a box end wrench on the stud to stop it from turning? I may be wrong but I thought I saw that on my 45mm TD's...

You're right, I just noticed it. What tool should I use to hold the top? I tried using a box wrench, 11MM was too small, 12mm was too big.

jehu2PN.jpg
 
You're right, I just noticed it. What tool should I use to hold the top? I tried using a box wrench, 11MM was too small, 12mm was too big.

jehu2PN.jpg
Use imperial, try 7/16" or a pair of large vise grips locked closed and pushed up against a frame rail or something to keep it from spinning
 
You're right, I just noticed it. What tool should I use to hold the top? I tried using a box wrench, 11MM was too small, 12mm was too big.

jehu2PN.jpg

11.5mm obviously! :rofl:

I've used a beefy vice grip with success before. That, or a friend with giant hands to help hold the shock body still. Or what was just suggested, break out the 'American' sizes and give that a shot.
 
plan Z I have seen how the dealer deals with it , that if you no longer need the old shock , dealer use a saw to cut off the entire head pin , but first remove ABS harness as it goes very close to the cutting area on the passenger site
 
6" Crescent (adjustable) wrench if vice or open end doesnt work
 
I cut through my shock shaft, midway between the top mount and the shock body somewhere. Then welded a nut onto the newly exposed end of shaft, and used an impact wrench to spin it off easily. :) (with a wrench on the top nut as usual)
 
I used the saws-all/optometrist method to remove my rear shocks and then get the shaft frag out of my eye. Fun indeed, more fun with goggles!
 
So I removed the spare as some of you suggested. This freed up ALOT of space. I was able to get a better angle of the shock. I bought a large pair of vise grip. I was able to break the nut loose without damaging the shock or cutting a hole in the body.
Thanks for everyone input.
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