- Thread starter
- #61
Added another small piece to make it look a little more like factory. I know - I’m crazy. Will media blast and apply a bit of body filler to smooth things out, and then paint.
Canman’s LX450 resurrection
- Thread starter canman
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- Thread starter
- #62
Media blasted. Added some filler.
- Thread starter
- #63
“Finished” bracket. Looking not too shabby for a hack job that no one will ever see or appreciate. Lol!
If I may offer a suggestion for your patch weld in repairs?
You are making them too tight, you need at least .030-.040 smaller. If they are too tight when you weld the metal will distort and be very difficult to work back down to minimize the amount of filler.
Also it may cause oil canning of the panel to the point that it will constantly flex and the filler will eventually fail its bond to the metal.
May I suggest the use of these Amazon product ASIN B09K7G5917
You are making them too tight, you need at least .030-.040 smaller. If they are too tight when you weld the metal will distort and be very difficult to work back down to minimize the amount of filler.
Also it may cause oil canning of the panel to the point that it will constantly flex and the filler will eventually fail its bond to the metal.
May I suggest the use of these Amazon product ASIN B09K7G5917
- Thread starter
- #65
Have a couple parallel threads going as it will be better for folks down the road looking for info.
One is my fuel lines install, and the other is my LRA fuel tank install. They are listed below:
Fuel Lines Install
forum.ih8mud.com
LRA Fuel Tank Install
forum.ih8mud.com
To sum things up so far, after removing the trio of fuel lines and fuel tank, I decided it was best to media blast the rust on the rear of the frame and underbody before reinstalling the fuel lines and LRA tank. I just started to blast this afternoon, and I am having multiple stoppages every few seconds, so I’ll stop and remove the media (glass bead) from the pressure pot and sift it to remove any large debris. Already found a golf ball size hole in the drivers floor board under the main wiring harness. I knew it was wet when working on the wiring for the HAM radio, but never saw a hole. Will continue to work on it tomorrow when my daughter can give me a hand as it is a major PITA to get up from underneath the truck to address the stoppages.
One is my fuel lines install, and the other is my LRA fuel tank install. They are listed below:
Fuel Lines Install
Has anyone replaced their fuel lines with new OEM ones?
Got a leak on one of the fuel lines just under my drivers foot. Ordered new factory fuel lines, but was wondering if anyone has ever replaced them. Couldn’t find anything relevant using search function.Seems to remove the clamps you must access screws from the inside under the carpet. Not really...
forum.ih8mud.com
LRA Fuel Tank Install
First Gen LRA tank (167L) install
Thought I would create a separate thread for the LRA tank install even though I covered a bit of the painting in my resurrection thread, and the orig tank removal in my fuel line thread. Those threads are listed below: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/canmans-lx450-resurrection.1291822/...
forum.ih8mud.com
To sum things up so far, after removing the trio of fuel lines and fuel tank, I decided it was best to media blast the rust on the rear of the frame and underbody before reinstalling the fuel lines and LRA tank. I just started to blast this afternoon, and I am having multiple stoppages every few seconds, so I’ll stop and remove the media (glass bead) from the pressure pot and sift it to remove any large debris. Already found a golf ball size hole in the drivers floor board under the main wiring harness. I knew it was wet when working on the wiring for the HAM radio, but never saw a hole. Will continue to work on it tomorrow when my daughter can give me a hand as it is a major PITA to get up from underneath the truck to address the stoppages.
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- Thread starter
- #66
The kind of rust I’m dealing with. Been dreading this moment for the last 5-6 yrs.
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- #67
The rearmost is the worst.
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- #68
Got this direct to metal coating g that is supposed to mimic the factory e-coat. Will spray whatever becomes bare metal with it followed by a 3M undercoating product.
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- #69
The 3M rubberized undercoating. I really don’t like these types of products, but I’ll try it out on a test piece. Also got this seam sealer to use around the body mount supports and body support channels.
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- #70
I’ll pull the axles and blast them separately down the road as both need to be rebuilt and I also need new shocks, springs, and control arm bushings. When I’m done, the underside should be new like. Still not sure on what spring/shock combo to go with.
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- #71
Had to take of some other stuff. Too bad because we’re having super warm weather (21C). Decided to empty the pressure pot and this is was what I found. Crazy! I need to make a proper lid for it to keep stuff from falling in. There was plenty of chunks of rust/debris that I freed up, but the inside of the walls look fine. There were bits of glass, a deck screw, a 7/16” socket, small machine screw, cardboard, and a piece of paper amongst other crap. No wonder it was blocking up every few seconds. Too late in the day to start blasting, so started working on the fender. I’m going to apply a grey primer coat to the inside surface.
- Thread starter
- #72
Couldn’t post the pic in the post above.
Is that a diff breather extension hose just ziptied to the LSPV arm hahah? What was the thought process behind mounting it like 2" higher than the factory has it (on the actual axle housing)?
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- #74
I can’t remember. Probably laziness. Had planned to extend them all up to the engine compartment back in the day. Now that you mention it, I will probably do that as part of the resurrection. Lol!
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- #75
Just got back at it. Still having stoppages, but can go for several minutes. Looking good. Used up about half of what was in the pressure pit. Using 20-30 grit glass bead purchased from Princess Auto at CAN$14.99 for a 50 lb bag. Found some more rust around a grommet towards the rear in the floor. Will have to either close the hole, or cut a patch with a hole in it for the grommet.
- Thread starter
- #76
Will continue blasting the rear today, and misc other areas. Will also clean up rust on LRA tank flanges, and try reassembling.
- Thread starter
- #77
Been slow going for some reason. Had a couple of stoppages, but it is taking way longer to clean up the frame on the other side. Almost gone through the 3 bags of glass bead, and hardly have anything to show for it. Recouped about half so far from the ground. The temps have really dropped from the record setting temps we had the last three days, and it will continue to get cooler until Thursday. it is also super windy which is making a really tough job even more challenging. Taking a break for now to have some lunch, and will try again later. Have a pretty big hole at the PS rear rocker/ wheel well interface. That will be challenging to repair as I believe there are three different metal surfaces coming together in that area. Have the same issue on the DS, but not nearly as bad.
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- #78
Picked up 8 more bags of glass braf. They didn’t have another media in courser grit, so I’ll just keep going with this. Wasn’t really planning to do everything now with respect to blasting “all” the rust, but figured I should try which will make it easier down the road. Plan was just to address areas impacted by the installation of the fuel tank and fuel lines which is basically done.
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- #79
Back at it today. Crazy warm weather for almost middle of Nov for these parts (16C). Tomorrow will likely be last warm day (14C with rain likely) before we drop to single digit highs and temps below 0C.
Upped the nozzle diameter to 3/16 from 1/8” and huge improvement in performance in terms of area blasted and stoppages. Going really well. At this rate I should be done blasting what I need/can blast today. Bad news I see rot in some of the floor sub channels. Will be difficult to repair without lifting the body up or off. Damn.
Upped the nozzle diameter to 3/16 from 1/8” and huge improvement in performance in terms of area blasted and stoppages. Going really well. At this rate I should be done blasting what I need/can blast today. Bad news I see rot in some of the floor sub channels. Will be difficult to repair without lifting the body up or off. Damn.
- Thread starter
- #80
Looks like I’ll have a few sections of floor sub channels that will need to be replaced. Good thing I have a small commercial grade metal bender which will come in handy to make some hat sections. Just managed to sorta finish before the rain started. Started on the diff, but that can wait for another time.
