Has anyone replaced their fuel lines with new OEM ones? (1 Viewer)

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Got a leak on one of the fuel lines just under my drivers foot. Ordered new factory fuel lines, but was wondering if anyone has ever replaced them. Couldn’t find anything relevant using search function.Seems to remove the clamps you must access screws from the inside under the carpet. Not really looking forward to this.
 
IIRC, all the fuel lines are clamped onto the frame, between the tank and the firewall.
 
Not off to a good start. Will replace the factory tank with the LRA I’ve been restoring the last couple of months at the same time I guess.

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Can’t believe how much rust is on the flange. Was just barely able to loosen the screws without stripping the heads. The metal tab supporting the connector was pretty much rusted away. Luckily, the used LRA tank I have had the complete flange and pump assembly on better condition. Will start the process of removing the tank and lines later this morning. Right now it is 0C outside.
 
IIRC, all the fuel lines are clamped onto the frame, between the tank and the firewall.

Fuel lines are clamped to the body and brake lines are clamped to the frame in that area.

Seems to remove the clamps you must access screws from the inside under the carpet.

The clamps can be removed from under the body and up the firewall. Remove the nuts from the captive studs. No need to do anything from the interior.
 
Ok. Good to know. Thanks. Just started pulling the tank. Rounded the head the head of one bolt with my impact, and another is too rusted to grab with a socket. The two inside bolts can come out. Have now drained the tank hoping that all the vapours clear out by tomorrow. Also got the rusty fill pipe out of the way by just twisting it in two and pulling it off the hose. Otherwise, there was no way to get it off the hose as there wasn’t enough too. To move it to get the hose off.
 
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Got photos of the carnage?
 
I’ll post tomorrow. Got all four strap bolts loose by hand initially. But they were very rusty as is the the entire underside of the truck. Used the impact with 6 point socket on the one bolt which was 75% out, but the excessive rust at the end of the thread caused it to bind, and the head got rounded off.
 
Will be back at it this morning.
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Just got the old tank out after cutting the rear strap with my sawzall. Cut on both sides of the support bracket/clip for the emergency brake cable. Still not sure how I will get that support bracket/clip free from what remains of the rear tank strap. The tank was held up with the hoses over the rear shock cross member. After a bit of twisting and pulling the tank came down. Had my floor Jack ready, but really no need to support the tank as it was empty. Tank looks pretty much finished. The right rear corner is rusted away.

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Some more pics.
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This is why I went to California and bought my cruiser, super tired of dealing with the rust😡

Kudos to you mister for going at it🍻
 
Agree10000000%. Looking at the underside of the body and frame it is clear I need to address all the surface rust (and likely more) before installing the LRA tank. So, at a bit of a cross roads now. Looking at the fuel lines, they all seem to be in great shape except where there is the leak. Looks like the leak started where the heat shrunk? rubber sleeve was located. Seems to remove all the fuel lines, I’ll need to remove the heat shield above the muffler and possibly the muffler. Not sure. Seems a waste to remove them all, but will likely move ahead with replacing them since I now own them.
I’ll start a separate thread for the LRA tank installation. Reading the instructions, there is a U-shaped bracket that is bolted to one of the U shaped body supports using thru bolts (you have the cross drill two holes through the U-shaped body support. I don’t have that bracket and wonder if it was added later as my tank is apparently one of the first ones built and J don’t recall reading about it when so looked at the instruction off the web many moons ago. I can gab up that bracket if needed. There is also a plate with a threaded stud that goes on the inside of the vehicle for the other side strap support. Don’t have that plate either. Can also make that I suppose, but any hopes I had of wrapping this up next weekend are a pipe dream now.
 
Hi, Replaced all our brake and gas lines and tank on one of our fj62s. Not fun, soaked everything in pb blaster for a week. Doing it on the ground was harder. Our lines and tank were in terrible shape. We did get better mpg after that and I didn’t worry about the cruiser burning to the ground.
 
Finally managed to wrestle the trio of fuel lines from out of the vehicle. Forgot one clip up along the firewall which was hard to see. Busted the threaded stud for the clip that was on the DS inner fender. Also the nut /threaded stud for the clip nearest the leak was so rusted that the 10 mm socket just spun. Luckily, the inner plastic/rubber portion had already separated from the steel clip body. Had to bend one of the fuel lines at the engine end to clear the coiled brake line under the booster. Also had to remove the heat shield for the muffler as two or three clips were hidden by it. Luckily all those nuts came off easily because of grease from the U-joint. If it wasn’t for my 1” body lift I highly doubt it would be possible to pass the trip of lines between the frame and the body. I’ll see if I can order new clips and nuts from the dealer as well as all new gaskets and hoses required at the tank end. Watch @GW Nugget YT vid where he listed all the parts when he replaced his tank with a used one after his cracked. Very helpful with the P/N’s.

Rusted sections. There was an area at the rear that was also rusted that was hidden by the heat shield so it was probably a good thing that I replaced all three.
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Clip in the engine compartment.
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Clip on the lower firewall. Hard to see, but it is towards the rubber mud guard towards the upper right.
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Rusted clip by the leak.
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