Can We Get Real About Aussie Locker for a Minute? (1 Viewer)

[retrofive]

So each to their own. My '94 started out un-locked not even like soccer mom status, like gram mama never drove status.

Amazing vehicle unlocked/open. Wheeled that way for sometime.

Added rear aussie locker (used, low mileage, for like $170 here on 'mud classifieds). Pretty rad and worked really well.

Swapped the front for e-locked front down the road.

In-between those phases added a CDL switch and pin7mod.

The truck works very well period. I had a rear e-locked axel and all to complete the 3x swap, but honeslty was happy enough I left my buddy with the lock rear and kept the aussie setup I have.

Again, everyone def. of wheeling varies, but this setup works well for me.

 

[Aussie_Locker]

We have a line of custom thickness thrust washers to dial in the locker install specs. Some Toyota differentials have multiple thickness thrust washers from the factory and I believe you can purchase a Toyota set of washers that includes multiple thicknesses.

We created the line of custom washers because we found some differentials were machined with wide tolerances, specifically the Dana 35, Ford 8.8 and AMC 20 are problematic.

Here are the washers:
Products | Locking Differential | Aussie Locker By Torq Masters

 

[FranceJohnson]

What else (Thrust washers) do I need to do an install in my driveway?

Really you just need a few hand tools. The 80 is nice since it has an inspection cover on the back of the diff; though I think you need to move the rear sway bar out of the way. I believe I replaced this gasket during the install, but you will certainly need some RTV or Toyota Form-in-Place-Gasket (FIPG). No need to pull the whole third member. Just open the cover, remove the C-clips (if you have a semi-float rear), remove the spider gears, then install the locker pieces. There are 4 springs that need to stay in place when installing, I just used grease to keep them in their holes. The most technical thing is setting up the gap. Too small and the locker can't slip and it will always be engaged, and too wide and it won't lock. You will need a feeler gauge and the thrush washers. Its possible you will have to remove/install the locker in the housing a couple times to get the gaps correct; but that only takes a couple minutes. Once it looks good, you just slip the c-clips back on, and button everything back up.

This really isn't that technical of a process, I had no idea what I was doing, and didn't have any issues. This is the best time to replace your rear axle seals and bearings since 99% of the work to get there is done. I would estimate it look 2-3 slow paced hours to do everything, including the bearings.

Pro-Tip, I would probably get one of those flexible hose claw grabber things. Good possibility you will either drop a c-clip or one of the springs inside the diff housing during installation, makes it a little easier to grab it with out having to remove what you have already installed. Be mindful of the little springs too, if they aren't seated properly you can easily booger them up.

 

[pjess50]

I'm pretty sure you do indeed have to pull the 3rd member...there is no inspection cover.
I have the Lokka variety and have had it in for over 4 years and over 40K miles without a single issue. I didn't have a reason for choosing that one over another but I will say it has been the best $250-300 i have ever spent on the truck, no question.
I do make it to the snow several times a winter (yes, it snows here in AZ) and never had an issue with the behavior of the truck.
I have been accused of driving like a grandpa though.

 

[Tools R Us]

... The 80 is nice since it has an inspection cover on the back of the diff; ...

True on the early non-ABS/semi floater rigs.

I'm pretty sure you do indeed have to pull the 3rd member...there is no inspection cover. ...

True on the later ABS/full floater rigs.

 

[Aussie_Locker]

Here's a funny video from one of our dealers in Canada showing how he drives in winter conditions and what to expect. Granted, it's a Jeep Cherokee, but similar wheelbase.

 

[Bludozer]

Here's a funny video from one of our dealers in Canada showing how he drives in winter conditions and what to expect. Granted, it's a Jeep Cherokee, but similar wheelbase.

That was the most Canadian thing I have ever witnessed.

"All right I'm hittin...well I dont have a speedometer"

 

[Pin_Head]

The video illustrates drive side switching that happens on all auto lockers when you go from drive to coast and visa versa. Many people attribute it to locking and unlocking but what they miss is that different wheels are unlocking and locking.

 

[shocktower]

I think I want to go this route, I have driven with a LS in the rear of my truck and snow and other things just make you pay attention, like you should anyway

 

[baldilocks]

I think I want to go this route, I have driven with a LS in the rear of my truck and snow and other things just make you pay attention, like you should anyway

I had Lock-Rights in an fj40 many years ago. They do unlock and lock during cornering on dry pavement pretty smoothly if you are off the gas but if you are on the gas even a little bit, they WILL lock up as designed. I would not use a lunch box locker except in the front of a part time 4x4 unless my rig was only driven on the road to get to the trail.

I understand the appeal of being able to lock up an axle for cheap and easy and that, IMO, is the best thing about this type traction device. You could by an entire 80 of $1k but it would come with a lot of compromises.

Even on trails like Rubicon my lockers are OFF most of the time. They get locked only to get me through a specific spot and unlocked for much better maneuverability and reduce tire wear and driveline stress.

 

[Pin_Head]

With autolockers, if you are decelerating or engine braking in a turn, then the outside wheel is locked and the inside wheel is ratcheting. If you switch to acceleration in the turn, the inside wheel locks and the outside wheel ratchets. If you stop accelerating and switch to engine braking in a turn, then the outside wheel locks and the inside wheel ratchets. Different wheels lock and unlock in turns when you go from accelerate to decelerate and visa versa. All autolockers work the same way, Detroit, lockrite, Aussie, Lokka, etc.

 

[Bludozer]

Have loved the Spartan in the rear of my truck. In my experience 80s take really well to autolockers. Can count on one hand how many times I've even noticed it in there in the 2 years so I've had one. Always locks up when needed and operates incredibly well on the street, I think much of the on-road driving "concern" about these is overblown.

 

[sunrk]

I first saw this thread and though 'what the heck is an Aussie locker'. So it's another type of auto-locker similar to a Detroit etc.... My 80 is factory part-time 4wd with no lockers anywhere yet I've had thoughts of a rear one for yonkers as normally it's only in 2wd mode. Here is Oz everyone raves on about air lockers vs e-lockers and auto-lockers don't get talked about much. I've never seen an 80 with a Toyota factory locker.

Don't get snow/ice here but there are times when there's excessive rain and off-road driving anywhere is tricky simply due to flash flooding, and soils that are waterlogged so soft, slippery, and not good for traction.

 

[decoco]

The video illustrates drive side switching that happens on all auto lockers when you go from drive to coast and visa versa. Many people attribute it to locking and unlocking but what they miss is that different wheels are unlocking and locking.

can you please explain this a bit more in depth. I have an auto locker and still don't understand the drive side switching

 

[decoco]

Have loved the Spartan in the rear of my truck. In my experience 80s take really well to autolockers. Can count on one hand how many times I've even noticed it in there in the 2 years so I've had one. Always locks up when needed and operates incredibly well on the street, I think much of the on-road driving "concern" about these is overblown.

I echo the same sentiment. Is your 80 AWD all the time?
It does seem that in icy, snowy conditions the AWD system does help a bit with the possible faults of an auto rear locker.

Once installed the vehicle cornered a differently, first understeer, then oversteer. you have to be ready at the wheel with sudden braking, but yes, the concerns of people that "*gasp* auto locker, you're gonna die!!!" are exaggerated.

My setup is a spartan in the rear 2.5 inch ironman suspension lift with 33 A/Ts NO rear sway bar.

 

[Pin_Head]

can you please explain this a bit more in depth. I have an auto locker and still don't understand the drive side switching

Unlike the ARB, Eaton and Toyota electric lockers that physically lock the two sides together, autolockers independently lock the sides. Whether a particular wheel is locked or not depends on its rotational speed with respect to the ring gear. Only 1 wheel or the other can be “unlocked” or ratcheting. Which side is locked depends on whether your are turning left or right and whether you are going forward (acceleration) or reverse (engine braking). When you are accelerating, the wheel rotating faster than the ring gear ratchets. When you are engine braking, the wheel going slower than the ring gear ratchets. So when you go from engine braking to acceleration in a turn, the drive side wheel switches from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. Depending on the state of the locker driver/coupler teeth, the switch can happen smoothly or it can pop and bang.

 

[baldilocks]

Unlike the ARB, Eaton and Toyota electric lockers that physically lock the two sides together, autolockers independently lock the sides. Whether a particular wheel is locked or not depends on its rotational speed with respect to the ring gear. Only 1 wheel or the other can be “unlocked” or ratcheting. Which side is locked depends on whether your are turning left or right and whether you are going forward (acceleration) or reverse (engine braking). When you are accelerating, the wheel rotating faster than the ring gear ratchets. When you are engine braking, the wheel going slower than the ring gear ratchets. So when you go from engine braking to acceleration in a turn, the drive side wheel switches from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. Depending on the state of the locker driver/coupler teeth, the switch can happen smoothly or it can pop and bang.

I’m pretty sure this explaination holds true only on the street at higher than trail speeds, otherwise, the auto locker would be useless off road.

 

[Pin_Head]

That is correct. It only applies to high traction conditions when neither wheel is slipping.

When one wheel slips, then that side automatically locks too and both wheels are driving because neither wheel can go slower than the ring gear.

 

[baldilocks]

I’ve run auto lockersin the past and there is a whole lot of tire screech and scrub on granite slabs any time my foot was applying even a little bit of throttle. This points to the number one unfavorable feature of the auto locker; it wants to push through sharp turns.

 

[Pin_Head]

I had lockrites front and rear on my 40 for many years and it was a good combo. If you focus on what is actually happening, the tire chirping and popping actually happens when you transition from coast to drive and visa versa. That is where the idea that they “lock” when you hit the gas and “unlock” when you let off came from. The reality is that it is drive side switching.