Camshaft

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Iskenderian makes a nice cam for the F and 2F, they will need yours and reprofile it to your specs.......Ron iskenderian has been doing this with his Dad since the 50s and they have a lot of different profiles for the F and 2Fs....,,,they also case harden the lobes.....a great big + IMO..........price is very reasonable and if you get a chance talk to Ron; he has a treasure of info in his noggin; never steered me wrong in the years have been dealing with him and his Dad:steer:

Lou
 
Iskenderian makes a nice cam for the F and 2F, they will need yours and reprofile it to your specs.......Ron iskenderian has been doing this with his Dad since the 50s and they have a lot of different profiles for the F and 2Fs....,,,they also case harden the lobes.....a great big + IMO..........price is very reasonable and if you get a chance talk to Ron; he has a treasure of info in his noggin; never steered me wrong in the years have been dealing with him and his Dad:steer:

Lou

These the ones?

ISKY Racing cams

Nice to know there is some support for these engines. More than I thought. I'll keep tabs on these in the first post.
 
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The price may include the customer providing a core cam to be reground.

I don't know which one I like because they don't have any other info on the profiles available.

Contact Isky and find out if a core is required, and which grind they recommend for you. They are very well respected for cam info.
 
The price may include the customer providing a core cam to be reground.

I don't know which one I like because they don't have any other info on the profiles available.

Contact Isky and find out if a core is required, and which grind they recommend for you. They are very well respected for cam info.

Isky regrinds the customers cam. So it isnt new billet, its your old cam. He said he doesnt have enough demand to grind from a new billet. He does maybe one 2F/3FE cam a month.

When I spoke with the owners on the phone he also gave me the number for Rocker Arm Specialists 530-378-1075
 
did he have a recomendation for the better one?
 
A cautionary camshaft tale of woe

I have run the folowing cams in a 2F; stock, Clay Smith (I remember the specs to be about 220 duration at .050 and .420 lift), Downey torque cam, and a new-from-Toyota 3F cam. In the end I stuck with the 3F for the good torque curve and mileage which had suffered with the Clay Smith and the Downey cams. I had some painful issues along the way. First, it became obvious that the stock springs would bind with the Clay Smith or the Downey cam. They were also of insufficient pressure to avoid valve float on a bigger cam. So I found some Chevy springs that were dimensionaly compatible and stiffer. I got a complete set of lifters from Man A Fre. It wasn't too long after that things had obvious problems. The lifters mushroomed out so badly that I had to remove the cam (while holding the lifters up with all twelve of my hands) and push the lifters out the bottom of the bores. I thought is was the springs so I swapped out the cam for the stocker and the springs as well. I had nine lifters reground and bought three new ones from Toyota. The lifters mushroomed again, except this time, three did not. They were the Toyota lifters. Now I looked for professional help. I found a local cam/lifter grinder and we determined that the MAF lifters were absolute trash. Not only were they too soft, they are also smaller that the stock lifters and they ruined two of my camshafts. A very poor product to say the least. The stock Toyota lifters have some issues too, but they are correctable. They are not truley square and they have no crown to create rotation as any other solid lifter would have. This is all fixed with a resurfaceing of the bottom of the lifter to true it and to create a very slight crown. This causes rotation in the lifter bore as the cam actuates it and will greatly increase their lifespan. So in the end, this was my personal assesment; the "performance" cams cost me mileage, weren't compatible with the stock springs and offered small performance gains. (Let's face it, the motor has very limited potential with the reverse flow head and a two-ton, four-bearing crankshaft) So this what I ended up with. A new 3F cam (it's all that you can get from Toyota), a milled head, a Weber 38/38, a header and a recurved ignition advance. This was the best the 2F ever ran, and I have never driven one that ran better. So my advice to any performance seekers, based on my exerience, would be to exercise extreme caution with regards to the valve springs and DO NOT USE MAF LIFTERS!!!! About a year after all this I finally got the performance I wanted in the form of a 350 that got better mileage and made at least twice the power as the 2F. Too bad I had wasted so much money along the way.
 
I don't agree :hillbilly:

Why not? It's a fact that it has less than ideal crankshaft support, a good inline six should have seven main bearings, these have only four and the crank weighs an absurd amount, it will never be able to spin very fast. A reverse flow head will never match a cross flow head. Even the reciprocating mass is ridiculous! Look at the rods, they weigh twice what a SBC rod weighs. You can't expect to defy the laws of physics and push 300 HP out of a 2F and think that it will last very long. Remember the origins of this beast? It is derived from the old "Stovebolt Six", an inline six found in Chevy trucks starting in 1929! It reached 235 CI in 1954. From that, the original F was a virtual carbon copy. The 2F has some potential, it can run SOOO much beter than it does in stock trim, but it is in fact, very limited by today's standards because of it's physical properties. Love it for what it is, but don't expect V8 like performance, there is a reason for which Toyota stoped building it.
 
i dont think he is looking at pushing 300hp.... more like 400ish... CLICK ME

what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.
 
I always love people that claim a 350 hp V8 :)

BTW,
Isky did a custom grind on a cam for my turbo 2F (different intake and exhaust profiles) and The Rocker arm dudes regound my stock lifters for like $30 or so.


Can't wait to try it out :)
 
i dont think he is looking at pushing 300hp.... more like 400ish... CLICK ME

what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.

Reliability is a huge thing to consider. I checked your link there, somebody has more money than sense. And how long will that hold together? Not very long would be my bet. I'm also guilty, I have crossed the line of diminishing returns so often that it's become habit. The most fun I had with my Cruiser was when it was still spring under with OMEs, a healthy 2F and a five speed. I love my 350 and I'm never going back, but those were the most effective mods giving me the best return for my money and effort.
 
what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.
Might as well bore 1.5mm O/S. Pistons, rings and bore costs the same regardless.

The 1.5mm will increase displacement to 4.4L, but it will also increase CR to 8.7 with no milling on the head.

Be careful not to overmill and end up w/ 9.5:1. The price of premium gas makes that a spendy proposition.
 
Ive got a bit of a budget to work with and only two months to get everything done and work out any bugs. We are moving back to Washington State this summer and I would really like to drive my 62 back.

So I guess for me right now the best price is going to be either the Isky or Delta for a regrind and have the lifters reconditioned by either Delta or Rockerarm.

Aren't they both going to do the same job, using the same technology and tools, no matter what which one I send the cam to?

I know Delta wants 10 bucks extra per cam lobe that needs to be repaired. Not sure if Isky is a flat price or if they are going to charge per lobe repair?


I just want to get the best bang for my dollar. On a budget I can only afford so much at this time. I can always upgrade parts later.

So who has the best advice for someone in my shoes?
 
isky and rocker arm..
 
isky and rocker arm..

Now to figure our which grind to get. I am looking more for fuel economy. And since I drive all my Land Cruisers as if they are farm tractors the power doesn't really matter. I figure the 2-FE is going to put out enough on its own.

I dont expect to lift it any higher then 2.5 inches and 31's or 32's. I don't tow anything, and if I do it will be a small trailer.
 
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