Cam's FJ60 Gets Sprung

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FJ60Cam said:
The 60's never had them (just the 62), and I ditched the one from the 80.

The two brake circuits go directly to each axle.
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Interested to see how you set it up when you go discs. My 80 rear discs are weird, I don't get much rear braking unless I slam on it... and then they just lock.
 
cruisermatt said:
Interested to see how you set it up when you go discs. My 80 rear discs are weird, I don't get much rear braking unless I slam on it... and then they just lock.
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That's good info and might be the missing piece of the puzzle. Do you have any sort of proportioning valve in there? And they lock up before the fronts?

I recall Torfab using a residual valve (which keeps a constant 'background' pressure in the line) and a proportioning valve. Maybe they need a bit of preload to get them working and then the PV to prevent lock-up.
 
FJ60Cam said:
To do list:

- Bleed brakes (got started last night, but can tell it will be a pain)
- Weld steering damper mount on frame
- Extend rear swaybar links (didn't account for contact with the shocks when I put them in)
- Change bum spindle
- Take off sweet jump
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Waiting patiently for footage of the final item ^^
 
FJ60Cam said:
That's good info and might be the missing piece of the puzzle. Do you have any sort of proportioning valve in there? And they lock up before the fronts?

I recall Torfab using a residual valve (which keeps a constant 'background' pressure in the line) and a proportioning valve. Maybe they need a bit of preload to get them working and then the PV to prevent lock-up.
Click to expand...
]

I have the factory LSPV zip-tied all the way open, I've been meaning to just take it out completely and re-do all the lines but haven't had the chance to take my 62 off the road for more than a day lately (It's my current DD). I figure there's some air in the system somewhere, the LSPV adds about 15 feet of brake line with many flares, fittings and bends. We'll see how it preforms with the lines re-routed, but I'll probably need some kind of PV. I just don't like how complicated the factory one is, and especially how it is affect by suspension travel and lift. I plan on lots of suspension travel in the future...

:worms:

Most people with 80 series who delete their LSPVs run a Wilwood PV set to about 10% I think, which makes sense as you want about 70/30 front and rear, assuming that since the front of the truck is heavier with the engine and all that even if you have 50/50 or 60/40 proportioning it acts like 70/30, right?

By the way, I have an 80 series master cylinder with a 60 series booster just for reference.

And I plan on hydro-boost in the future.
 
cruisermatt said:
]

I have the factory LSPV zip-tied all the way open, I've been meaning to just take it out completely and re-do all the lines but haven't had the chance to take my 62 off the road for more than a day lately (It's my current DD). I figure there's some air in the system somewhere, the LSPV adds about 15 feet of brake line with many flares, fittings and bends. We'll see how it preforms with the lines re-routed, but I'll probably need some kind of PV. I just don't like how complicated the factory one is, and especially how it is affect by suspension travel and lift. I plan on lots of suspension travel in the future...

:worms:

Most people with 80 series who delete their LSPVs run a Wilwood PV set to about 10% I think, which makes sense as you want about 70/30 front and rear, assuming that since the front of the truck is heavier with the engine and all that even if you have 50/50 or 60/40 proportioning it acts like 70/30, right?

By the way, I have an 80 series master cylinder with a 60 series booster just for reference.

And I plan on hydro-boost in the future.
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Racer65 here on mud has a PV that accepts the metric fittings... Brake Proportioning Valve

The famous @Bomar did a write-up on an easy LSPV removal...The easy low cost....FJ62 LSPV removal

These brake unions from Autozone work really well and are only a few bucks. They probably have a bleeder or plug to plug the extra hole in the tee.

image-jpeg.1204076
 
I've returned my dad's truck back to him, so the 60 is my DD again. Any future work will have to be able to be finished over a weekend.
 
Matt-you ave a lot of the janky in your system, and I'm not sure it directly applies to Cam's situation. It's likely your LPSV is confusing things and making meaningful comparisons impossible. Braking systems generally bleed the air very, very easily, so I doubt air is your problem unless you forgot to bleed the brakes at all.

If you want to delete your LSPV, those brake unions that Cam discussed awhile back would make quick work of it. Like an hour and done.

Now regarding Cameron's situation, the really interesting thing will be the drum vs disc comparo. Drum brakes are partially self actuating, and thus potentially MORE prone to locking than discs. If/when the Mosley 80 FF actually happens will be the time to set up the brake proportioning. Cameron and I have the same master cylinder so a direct point of comparison.

In my case (also not directly applicable to Cam's since I have 60 series brakes up front and 80 disc in the back), I have been unable to lock up the rear brakes on pavement, but next week I hope to have some dirt road time to sort this out.
 
Btw, I have two, (2), repeat ¡TWO! 80 full floaters sitting at Cam's Carport Creations right now, so the momentum is certainly there :D (The second one is going to jrob)

This brings my grand total to FOUR rear axle housings scattered about. These things multiply faster than Coleman lanterns.

image-jpg.899342
 
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So you got the dirty one from Arkansas. Nice.

Which one is going on your truck?
 
Probably the dirty one from Arkansas. It has more of the stuff I need (nice backing plates, brake lines) that jrob won't. It is soaking in antiseptic right now.
 
You better tox screen it for meth.

How much Bud Lite did you need to give for it?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Matt-you ave a lot of the janky in your system
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That's for damn sure

The reason I didn't like Bomar's way of doing it was that I wanted I didn't like leaving that return line and because my axle side brake line is hack anyways so I just want to tear all of it out and start from scratch.

Who's thread is this again? :rolleyes:

How much better are the 80 front brakes over 60? Besides the thicker rotors?
 
Bomar said:
I will be by this week to get whatever I need to pick up....
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I guess I need to tear that axle down! I need to anyway, because it's got the 3rd with the locker in it. Thanks for the motivation!
 
cruisermatt said:
That's for damn sure

The reason I didn't like Bomar's way of doing it was that I wanted I didn't like leaving that return line and because my axle side brake line is hack anyways so I just want to tear all of it out and start from scratch.

Who's thread is this again? :rolleyes:

How much better are the 80 front brakes over 60? Besides the thicker rotors?
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I think Bomar's way loses one of the lines and ends up with a single continuous path to the rear axle.

Ignore any of my braking performance until I get the FF in. It is raining here, so I just did several brake checks. My front is locking up first, but I don't think the drums are adjusted properly.

80 front discs with non-adjusted drums seem more powerful than 60 front discs with non-adjusted drums, if that's a helpful comparison. It's not life-changing, but slightly better.
 
I was just in the garage holding the 60 front caliper and the 80 front caliper in hand. The 80 caliper is about 25% bigger and heavier. Likely 25% more powerful. They are surprisingly the same though. Almost like Toyota took the 60 caliper made everything 25% bigger and called it done. If you didn't have them side by side, they would be difficult to tell apart. Even the casting marks are the same and in the same places.
 
wngrog said:
When you getting tarz?
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I'm submitting that request for approval at the next board meeting.

Anybody need some 285/75/16 Trxxus's? They're famous... they've been to the Rubicon and made it to Jarbidge.
 
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