Cam's FJ60 Gets Sprung

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This calculator site has lots already built into its formulas. Just use the 1st drop down box to select your transmission. Let's you do two drive trains side by side for comparo.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
 
Georg has a thread on the split case gears. (It sounds like) the Marlin gears are for the 80 case.
 
Marlin is 80 and 100 series TC compatible, if I recall correctly
Georg has a thread on the split case gears. (It sounds like) the Marlin gears are for the 80 case.
 
Now i feel like a dummy since i was talking about gears for the 80 case!! I forgot he just has 80 axles and suspension... my bad!
 
I wouldn't mind having the 80 case. I'd welcome the full-time 4wd in the rain with the V8. That would require a lot of rework though.
 
Low gears are way overrated with an auto tranny. Load that bitch up and crawl.

yeah I agree....the torque converter is an incredible multipler....
 
This calculator site has lots already built into its formulas. Just use the 1st drop down box to select your transmission. Let's you do two drive trains side by side for comparo.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

i essentialy was doing the same execpet just runing one series of numbers....making notes, then running the other set....I'll look here to. GM auto trans looks to be in my future at this point...since I"m changing the "soul" a little bit on my truck...
 
Wow! Just read thru this whole thread and super impressed Cam! I have always loved the way the 80's handle - congrats on grafting that suspension to your 60. Ingenious work. I'm sure it will be an amazing upgrade.

How about a vid with the new exhaust sound? I'm curious what it sounds like with the resonator added.


Cheers!
-Ed
 
Wow! Just read thru this whole thread and super impressed Cam! I have always loved the way the 80's handle - congrats on grafting that suspension to your 60. Ingenious work. I'm sure it will be an amazing upgrade.

How about a vid with the new exhaust sound? I'm curious what it sounds like with the resonator added.


Cheers!
-Ed

Thanks Ed! I'll get a video once it's running and driving (safely).
 
New stoppin' an steerin' parts arrived today. Maybe this will be the weekend we've all been waiting for!

image.webp
 
New stoppin' an steerin' parts arrived today. Maybe this will be the weekend we've all been waiting for!

View attachment 1211074
enlighten us on the details... what are the brackets for...bracing the steering gear? what version of the MC is this one in the pic?
 
enlighten us on the details... what are the brackets for...bracing the steering gear? what version of the MC is this one in the pic?

The brackets provide new mounting holes for the radius arms. It rotates the axle housing, which increases caster and points the pinion in a more desirable direction.

The MC is for a '94 disc/disc w/o ABS. It looks exactly like the '93 disc/drum that I have now.

Whose caster plates? Gotta rent a right angle drill for them?

These are Metal Tech's (and pretty much the same as Slee's and Ironman). No right angle drilling!!! These re-use the rear bolt hole and simply create a new forward bolt hole. You do trim the lower edge of the stock bracket with a cutoff wheel.

I'll post pics as I go. I watched Mark do his last weekend, so it is still fresh.
 
IIRC Landtank offers plates and his require drilling.

Also Cameron, if you get some grrrr feelings from the driveshafts don't be too afraid. Make sure you test it loaded down as well. On my truck, completely unloaded i will sometimes get a deceleration grrrr from the driveshafts, but when i load the truck up for a trip and it sits ½ inch lower the grrr is completely gone.
 
@concretejungle brings up a good point.

I think you get more lift out of 80 springs than 80's do, so IF you were to run in full time 4wd mode like an 80, you would likely get vibes. But, since you will presumably run lock out hubs (and I highly recommend that), your shaft won't be turning on the freeway and all will be quiet.

Running the drive plates, would mean your shaft is always turning and there is no reason for that.

If I remember right, @beno can even get you the proper hubs to match the 80 hubs.
 
The brackets provide new mounting holes for the radius arms. It rotates the axle housing, which increases caster and points the pinion in a more desirable direction.

The MC is for a '94 disc/disc w/o ABS. It looks exactly like the '93 disc/drum that I have now.



These are Metal Tech's (and pretty much the same as Slee's and Ironman). No right angle drilling!!! These re-use the rear bolt hole and simply create a new forward bolt hole. You do trim the lower edge of the stock bracket with a cutoff wheel.

I'll post pics as I go. I watched Mark do his last weekend, so it is still fresh.

Oh...I'm not up on some of the 80 stuff...I thought you already had a disk/disk non-abs MC on board already...but apparently not. Assume you removed the ABS and does that truck had the LPV valve too... Hopefully the new MC will help you out.
 
IIRC Landtank offers plates and his require drilling.

Also Cameron, if you get some grrrr feelings from the driveshafts don't be too afraid. Make sure you test it loaded down as well. On my truck, completely unloaded i will sometimes get a deceleration grrrr from the driveshafts, but when i load the truck up for a trip and it sits ½ inch lower the grrr is completely gone.

Do you get vibes from BOTH driveshafts? Do you have a DC front?

@concretejungle brings up a good point.

I think you get more lift out of 80 springs than 80's do, so IF you were to run in full time 4wd mode like an 80, you would likely get vibes. But, since you will presumably run lock out hubs (and I highly recommend that), your shaft won't be turning on the freeway and all will be quiet.

Running the drive plates, would mean your shaft is always turning and there is no reason for that.

If I remember right, @beno can even get you the proper hubs to match the 80 hubs.

The 3" 80 lift seems to be yielding about 4" for me. I didn't notice any growling from the rear diff when I drove it on the interstate the other day, but would need fresh street tires to really tell. Since the SF is just a practice rear housing, I could rotate the spring perches (have to cut them loose anyway) and the upper control arm brackets loose and rotate the housing. I'll post a pic of the pinion/ drive shaft angles for a group opinion.

I am using the locking hubs from my 60. They are a direct bolt-on with the non-abs birfs. Like @Bossman said, I could throw the later birfs on my milling machine Makita and make them work.
 
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