Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant

[TrickyT]

A 2v drop in the yellow IG wire, which according the EWD I have is fed by the 10A "Engine" fuse is a lot. If that's what drives the alternator to put "high 15s" to the battery I'd be concerned if that was going on for a prolonged period. But I need to digest all the data you provided while looking at the EWD. Will try to do that tomorrow.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Tom, you can have the night off. Your work is done

 

[FJ60Cam]

I ended up swapping the L & I connections on the old alt. plug, since their functions seemed to be reversed, and now everything is happy.

To summarize:

On the FJ60 factory alt. plug:

Yellow ---> L
Black/yellow ---> I

Battery+ ---> S

= Working Lamp & 14.4V output with everything running.

I even used three different color wires so you wouldn't yell at me

 

[FJ60Cam]

As soon as I get the cruise control figured out, we'll be ready to roll Andy's into the carport!

 

[TrickyT]

Glad you figured it out but not happy Toyota changed the wire colors like that. Makes it tough to depend on the EWD.

 

[Elbert]

Good work on the ALT... I hope to get my setup squared away in a couple of weeks (5.7 + CS 144)

 

[FJ60Cam]

Good work on the ALT... I hope to get my setup squared away in a couple of weeks (5.7 + CS 144)

:fistbump:

Check out the 'mud link a few posts back. It should give you the 'For Dummies' CS type install directions.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Operational update:

First few minutes of my drive to work, my scan gauge is showing 14.2 - 14.8V.

Pulling into work 15 mins later, it drops to the mid 13's.

Looks like it's working!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I would love to have a rapid charge system like that. Awesome work Cam!!

 

[Shes Mad]

Hmmm... I can't get the compressor to kick on.

I've got one can of 134 in the system, old coil (-) to tach output from ECU, old AC clutch wire to green wire of new AC compressor, black wire of new AC compressor to ground. No blown fuses.

Any ideas?

Ok Cam, think back a couple years

You ended up using the FJ62 AMP. So you did not need the old coil (-) to tach signal?
I'm wiring mine up now. My ECU has a wire for AC request idle up. Just senses 12v at the compressor wire. I already have a Dakota digital module running the factory tach.

Going to tackle this week. I took my 60 to Dealers Automotive here in MN. They made the hoses, installed them and vac'd system to check and fix any leaks for $290. A little more, and I did not get the house call, but pretty reasonable

 

[FJ60Cam]

Ok Cam, think back a couple years

You ended up using the FJ62 AMP. So you did not need the old coil (-) to tach signal?
I'm wiring mine up now. My ECU has a wire for AC request idle up. Just senses 12v at the compressor wire. I already have a Dakota digital module running the factory tach.

Going to tackle this week. I took my 60 to Dealers Automotive here in MN. They made the hoses, installed them and vac'd system to check and fix any leaks for $290. A little more, and I did not get the house call, but pretty reasonable

Correct, you do not need the old coil (-) to operate the FJ62 AC amp (or the modified FJ60 AC amp).

Sounds like you are wrapping things up!

 

[Shes Mad]

Funny things happen.

First, I upgraded to a 62 tach. Plug and play. Worked AWESOME!

But when I put the AC AMP from the 62 in, tach doesn't work! Neither did the original tach with the 62 AMP.

Unplug the AMP--Tach works! I remember you saying there were some wiring mods that you can/did do with the 62 AMP. Did not get to the AC yet. Tackling one gremlin at a time.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Small update:

I’ve got a cross country trip coming up, and noticed that the PS hose that the hydraulic shop made is starting to crack...

Not wanting to chance it, I called my man to come out and make a custom hose...

He put a new GM end on the pump, and an AN fitting on the box end, since the Toyota fittings are not super common. This will make it easy should it ever need to be reworked in the future...

The hardline line (which is stainless so it should remain pretty) is bent to get the hose well out of harms way from exhaust or the serpentine belt.

Now I’m kinda glad the old one cracked!

 

[FJ60Cam]

Funny things happen.

First, I upgraded to a 62 tach. Plug and play. Worked AWESOME!

View attachment 1469718

But when I put the AC AMP from the 62 in, tach doesn't work! Neither did the original tach with the 62 AMP.

Unplug the AMP--Tach works! I remember you saying there were some wiring mods that you can/did do with the 62 AMP. Did not get to the AC yet. Tackling one gremlin at a time.

Not sure how I missed this. Did you ever get it sorted out?

 

[Shes Mad]

Not sure how I missed this. Did you ever get it sorted out?

I did! I ended up adding a dakota digital SGI-8 E tach interface unit.

Here is how the 62 tach got wired in with the Dakota Digital Module

 

[Fireman]

Is that Carrot Top?

 

[concretejungle]

Is this for your transplant to CO? Or, do you have a trip up your sleeve?

 

[wngrog]

Is this for your transplant to CO? Or, do you have a trip up your sleeve?

The latter operation is underway.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Is this for your transplant to CO? Or, do you have a trip up your sleeve?

The latter operation is underway.

Off to do some top-secret hoodrat shat with some friends from the Internet.

 

[FJ60Cam]

More data:



Back from the top-secret rendezvous in NM with my friends from the chat room...

We covered 2500+ miles round-trip, including a marathon 18 hr/1000 mile blast home last night.

We covered terrain from sea level to 10,000 ft., covered lots of highway miles, hundreds of miles of high speed washboard roads, and many many miles of low-range shelf roads and technical terrain.

The motor never skipped a beat.

For the second long trip, though, my external inline fuel pump started whining after periods of extended use. I carry a spare pump & filter, and it never even hiccuped, but it is annoying. I’ll probably switch to an in-tank setup eventually (not in a hurry though).

I’m frequently asked about the fuel mileage, which is not something I normally track, since I’m usually more concerned with getting there as fast as possible.

Coming down from 9000’ to 5000’, mpg = infinite. I think the tank actually got fuller

Calculated from the scanguage, calibrated for actual speed:

Texas Highway travel, where we had stretches at 75-80, and then slowed down for small towns, with an average speed of 65, I got 15 mpg.

Interstate travel, with an average speed of 75, I got 13.7 mpg.

Offroad, where I can’t calculate mileage since the scanguage doesn’t recognize low range (thinks it’s traveling at hwy speeds), I typically use a few gallons less than the 80s & 100s per fillup, which is significant.

City driving mpg sucks. It’s not too much better than stock for me. I don’t even bother tracking it anymore.

I think the biggest issue with these trucks is the wind resistance. If you drove backroads & highways, and kept it under 55, you would probably approach 18-20 mpg. Any increase in speed comes at a price.