Glad you got it cranked! Sounds good on just headers. I think you could make the next meeting in it for the first test drive if you get the driveshaft in time. You will have a full put crew if you were to have any problems too.
Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant
- Thread starter FJ60Cam
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- Thread starter
- #382
It sounds like MF'n
I feel like a proud new parent!
If I had warm(er) weather, I think I could have it completely buttoned up in two weekends. Its hard to get anything accomplished when you can't feel your fingers!
I feel like a proud new parent!
If I had warm(er) weather, I think I could have it completely buttoned up in two weekends. Its hard to get anything accomplished when you can't feel your fingers!
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Tell me about the weather!! Working 14 plus hours is getting old! Doesn't look like it is going to let up for a while either. Good luck getting a warmer day!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
This is so great. You headed west this spring?
- Thread starter
- #385
I'd sure love to. I'm in a holding pattern, waiting to see if the planets line up.
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- Thread starter
- #388
I wasted a bunch of time yesterday fooling with the exhaust. I've come to the conclusion that doing it myself was a bad idea, so I'll farm that out.
I also can't route it like I had planned, so I may end up having to reroute or insulate the fuel line and some wiring. Does anyone have an insulation they recommend? I've seen sleeves and tape. Either one preferable?
I did finally get the shifters 100% done. That Lokar was a pain. I would probably give the cable floor mount a shot if I were to do it again. I had to modify my modification to the t-case shifter, but it's sitting perfect in the boot now.
At first glance, it looks stock.
The rear driveshaft has been cut down and balanced and is in. The guy even turned my U-joints around. ULC's DS shop had them installed with the grease zerk pointed the wrong way. You had to pull the shaft off to grease it
Georg is sending me a front shaft from a 62 that he had cut down and balanced.
Im filling up fluids and bleeding the lines, trying to get it as far as I can besides the exhaust. I still have a little more wiring to do, and put the finishing touches on my rear crossmember.
It's getting close!
This last 5% is the slowest part.
I also can't route it like I had planned, so I may end up having to reroute or insulate the fuel line and some wiring. Does anyone have an insulation they recommend? I've seen sleeves and tape. Either one preferable?
I did finally get the shifters 100% done. That Lokar was a pain. I would probably give the cable floor mount a shot if I were to do it again. I had to modify my modification to the t-case shifter, but it's sitting perfect in the boot now.
At first glance, it looks stock.
The rear driveshaft has been cut down and balanced and is in. The guy even turned my U-joints around. ULC's DS shop had them installed with the grease zerk pointed the wrong way. You had to pull the shaft off to grease it
Georg is sending me a front shaft from a 62 that he had cut down and balanced.
Im filling up fluids and bleeding the lines, trying to get it as far as I can besides the exhaust. I still have a little more wiring to do, and put the finishing touches on my rear crossmember.
It's getting close!
This last 5% is the slowest part.
I went through a ton on heat problems with my last buggy.
I found that the tape works fine. Just wrap it real good before the exhaust goes in.
If you can make the section that goes my the lines removable (like a cat or muffler) if you have later problems you can pull that section and install a heat shield and or ceramic coat that section of the exhaust.
The ceramic inside and out on my exhaust lowered temps a lot.
Make sure your PS return and fuel are insulated too. That exhaust heat can send both up
I found that the tape works fine. Just wrap it real good before the exhaust goes in.
If you can make the section that goes my the lines removable (like a cat or muffler) if you have later problems you can pull that section and install a heat shield and or ceramic coat that section of the exhaust.
The ceramic inside and out on my exhaust lowered temps a lot.
Make sure your PS return and fuel are insulated too. That exhaust heat can send both up
- Thread starter
- #392
It's only a problem for the fuel line and the big starter positive wire.
I bought some flanges to add on later to make the front part removable.
I at least got the initial downpipe made for each side. Getting the passenger side where it needs to go is the tricky part.
I bought some flanges to add on later to make the front part removable.
I at least got the initial downpipe made for each side. Getting the passenger side where it needs to go is the tricky part.
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- Thread starter
- #393
This is all I need anyway, right?
No one needs mufflers! They only take away horse power anyways! 
- Thread starter
- #396
No one needs mufflers! They only take away horse power anyways!
It sounds awesome with the piece of pipe added!
^^^ Truth.
This is my situation now. One year's worth of work and I am no closer to starting her up than I was one year ago when I started taking her a part.
The electrical--done right--takes hours and hours.
Correct plumbing--when done right--takes hours and hours.
That said, I'll never touch this stuff again once it's done.
Good work Cameron. Can't wait to see it in person and hear that V8 rumble.
- Thread starter
- #398
The brake switch is wired up, so it is now almost drivable. The switch is needed to unlock the torque converter when you apply the brakes.
It's as easy as taking out the old, and putting in the new. Except the hole isn't big enough for the GM switch and there is no room to fit a drill up in there.
I ended up having to buy a right angle die grinder and a grinding bit to open up the hole.
Once the hole is enlarged, put some female connectors on your old brake switch wires and attach to the proper terminals.
Then attach the TC wire and +12V to the other switch (which works opposite the one for the lights), and bolt it in.
The interior is 100% wired for now (tach and cruise control later), and has all been put back together.
I have a full day of tedious details left today, but ***HOPE*** to drive this over to the exhaust shop tonight and drop it off.
It's as easy as taking out the old, and putting in the new. Except the hole isn't big enough for the GM switch and there is no room to fit a drill up in there.
I ended up having to buy a right angle die grinder and a grinding bit to open up the hole.
Once the hole is enlarged, put some female connectors on your old brake switch wires and attach to the proper terminals.
Then attach the TC wire and +12V to the other switch (which works opposite the one for the lights), and bolt it in.
The interior is 100% wired for now (tach and cruise control later), and has all been put back together.
I have a full day of tedious details left today, but ***HOPE*** to drive this over to the exhaust shop tonight and drop it off.
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- Thread starter
- #399
We also put a code reader on it yesterday, and it was showing no codes
There better be one hell of a burn out video first!