Calling All 2F Guru's and Engine Experts (4 Viewers)

[4Cruisers]

I've been using Castrol 10W-30 conventional oil in my Land Cruisers for decades.

 

[SteveH]

If you want a synthetic, many here run Rotella T6 (5w-40 diesel oil), but as of right now, you cannot find it for sale anywhere.

 

[Gretsch]

If you want a synthetic, many here run Rotella T6 (5w-40 diesel oil), but as of right now, you cannot find it for sale anywhere.

This is what I run typically but in the 15W-40 variety. I went to look for it this past weekend and couldn't find it either. Went to 3 stores and none of them had it. Not the sure the reasoning however. Anyone know what the deal is?

 

[Dekeman]

Also run Rotella T6, and by some miracle the 2 x 5 litres that were supposedly backordered on Amazon arrived the next day last week.

 

[cps432]

This is what I run typically but in the 15W-40 variety. I went to look for it this past weekend and couldn't find it either. Went to 3 stores and none of them had it. Not the sure the reasoning however. Anyone know what the deal is?

Tons of supplies backed up in the ports and harbors. Texas manufactures a lot of chemicals for the country and the deep freeze last year shut down production and caused even more backups in the chemicals market. Gotta be related to all that madness I would assume. I haven’t been able to find Red N Tacky grease in an aerosol can since 2019… if you shut down and don’t make things then there aren’t things to buy.

But I didn’t like rotella when I tried it years ago. My engine got really noisy and clattered a lot more than usual. Going back to conventional with a zinc additive made it happier and it leaked less as a bonus.

 

[Gretsch]

But I didn’t like rotella when I tried it years ago. My engine got really noisy and clattered a lot more than usual. Going back to conventional with a zinc additive made it happier and it leaked less as a bonus.

The T6 works well for me. I am thinking about switching though and try the Mobil version of the diesel oil. Think it has additional zinc in it over the Rotella. Not really ready for an oil change and was just looking for some top off oil. But can't find T6 anywhere which may force my hand and change it out.

 

[Dekeman]

The oil in my 2F was blacker than texas tea when I got it. Drained, filled with T6, ran a few hundred miles and drained again when I changed oil pan gasket. Looking up at the pistons and cylinders, rods and crank (so wish I took a photo) they were all super clean. Spectacular sight. Rightly or wrongly, I credit the detergents in the oil for making things so sparkly, rinsing away the crud of neglect from the PO. After adding new T6 again, the oil is so clean I can hardly see it on the dipstick.

Not wanting to derail this into another oil thread, just my observations with the T6. I'm sure a lot of oils would have done the same.

 

[Rgill]

Thank you! I have 20w-50 in it currently, on the recommendation from the builder that I should use High zinc stuff. Hopefully running it this long hasn't caused the issue. Would you recommend 5w-30 with a zinc additive?

There are high zinc oils on the market for classic motors. Classic Car Motor Oil is a brand I have used. Just a note high zinc oil is hard on the catalytic convertor so once the rings seat you may not want to use it.

 

[F226continental]

All the oil recommendations are great, but I don’t think it will solve the OP problems.

Its a tricky thing to ask, but if you can find out how many cylinders your machinist usually hones before he cleans his stones, it might help identify the cylinder glazing issue as a real problem or a non issue.

Cylinder glazing occurs most often when a machinist does not clean the honing stones between cylinders. You should be able to feel the cylinder hone loading up when the stones stop cutting because of buildup on them. Of course Im anal bout these things.

 

[Beehanger]

Checking in here, i'm having similar issues. What did this end up being?
Is it possible to MIGRATE the greatest minds in 2f engineering present in this thread to MY thread here?
Ive been getting low compression on my engine post rebuild, some smoking, and backfiring (likely due to an intake leak I have)

Another mystery, to be sure.... this is my only rig would appreciate everyones take: rocker assembly questions - 2F - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rocker-assembly-questions-2f.1230646/page-2#post-15978677

Thanks,
Dan

 

[rlocke49]

Checking in here, i'm having similar issues. What did this end up being?
Is it possible to MIGRATE the greatest minds in 2f engineering present in this thread to MY thread here?
Ive been getting low compression on my engine post rebuild, some smoking, and backfiring (likely due to an intake leak I have)

Another mystery, to be sure.... this is my only rig would appreciate everyones take: rocker assembly questions - 2F - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rocker-assembly-questions-2f.1230646/page-2#post-15978677

Thanks,
Dan

Hey Dan,
I’ve put about 30k miles on my rebuild since these posts. Still uses a little oil, but nothing that keeps me up at night. I add a quart of oil every 3k miles or so. I suspect mine was (is) a combination of loose tolerances at the machine shop, non-oem parts, and the fact I had modern expectations on a 2F engine. I would imagine an in-line 6 based of a mid 1900’s design is a little rough around the edges. Compression is strong though and it has been nothing but reliable.

 

[Beehanger]

Hey Dan,
I’ve put about 30k miles on my rebuild since these posts. Still uses a little oil, but nothing that keeps me up at night. I add a quart of oil every 3k miles or so. I suspect mine was (is) a combination of loose tolerances at the machine shop, non-oem parts, and the fact I had modern expectations on a 2F engine. I would imagine an in-line 6 based of a mid 1900’s design is a little rough around the edges. Compression is strong though and it has been nothing but reliable.

Thanks for the update.

So You think it’s your rings causing the oil burning eh?

And Were you taking your compression hot or cold?

Thanks
Dan