california 60 smog, high CO% low NO no O2

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Ok, tried it once again after a fair amount of tune / checking. I changed the oil and filter, adjusted the valves - they were a touch tight. I pulled apart the ABV, cleaned and rebuilt. The only flaw I can find in the system is the check valve to the air rail but this should not matter as air should be flowing here during the test. The pump is pretty new and work well while manually manipulating the vacuum lines on the ABV.

I tested last Friday afternoon after a 20 min warm up on the freeway and premium gas, no longer a gross polluter but still failed due to high HC. There is still 0% o2 so it would seem to me that the "computer" is sending the air to the bypass. I think the next step is to take the computer out of the equation and "adjust" it to always send air to the exhaust manifold.

I will keep updating...
 
FWIW, I had all kinds of problems getting the AI to work during official testing (all the FSM tests were good), until I replaced the 'computer' with a NOS one.

Also, FWIW, the HAC leans the carb mix about 5% or so at 4500' and above. You can trick it into doing that at sea-level by leaving one of the hoses off (I forget - look at the emissions manual) or putting a hole on the bottom of that vac hose so the smog guy doesn't see it. It bleeds air into the Air Horn of the carb .... I *think* it's the top hose off the HAC valve, but it's been a while. My smog is due next month, so wish me luck, too, as I hate having to re-study this s*** every two years. F*&^%&^&%^^*(*&*&%*(&%(*%^(& - ING Kalifornia !!!
 
I have suspected something about the smell from the beginning of this. I am pretty sure the occasional exhaust smell started after removing all of the vacuum leaks and doing a full tune up for smog, including removing my EGR golf tee. I have read another cause of high CO is a lean miss. Due to little time to actually wrench and plenty of time to search the archives I came across this:

FJ40Jim said:

Edit: stinky exhaust was mentioned earlier. Unburned HC's result from a lean mixture. There's insufficient fuel to burn the whole charge. OTOH, A rich mixture has high CO, which is odorless.

With the combined H55 and 33's the engine is lugging right where the EGR wants to open up. Per the tech he is not allowed to change to teh next gear...

Just a theory.
 
If that's correct, then putting a set of 29" on would knock it out.

EDIT Still think timing can cure this, so long as air is metered right, which it apparently is.
 
I spent some time going through all of the EGR and air injection once again... Everything seems to be in order except for the air rail check valve. It flows air but in both directions but this should not explain the test results. I finally came back to searching threads on the air pump output pressure. It definitely flow air and the valves all switch it to the right locations but it is hard to tell if it enough. I found some info on the original SST and cobbled together one to check it.
20141213_152208.webp

Sure enough the pump would not even make the gauge move even when I covered the 5.5 mm orifice. The pump was replaced in 2000 with a napa rebuild so I guess that's not so bad. The lack of O2 pointed to this from the beginning but the fact that it pumps air had me looking at other things. Now looking at pump options...
 
In that picture, is the homemade gauge connected to hose #17345 (see AI schematic below)?

Just wondering if the hose you've got it connected to is expected to see air flow diverted down it under the operating conditions you are taking the measurements.

Why not hook up the homemade gauge directly to the output hose on the airpump itself?

Air Injection System FJ60.webp
 
That is correct, it is connected to hose 17345. I was manipulating the ABV to verify operation so I am sure this is where the air was being directed, I was also trying to check the lower check valve to the exhaust pipe before the cat. The gauge range is not really the correct range but per the toyota SST I should have seen it move at least 15 degrees and it did nothing (I did check the gauge with a bike pump and it works fine). This one is tough because on the surface it works, maybe it's worn out or maybe missing a vane and just not moving the volume and pressure needed to overcome the check valves. For the check valve I am looking for a new one but have not found one at $30 yet:).

Thanks for the support, I will keep posting until I pass. Having read hundreds of threads relating to "smog", "high CO", "air pump"... it is frustrating to not always see the resolution.
 
In your picture you're testing the pump output after the ABV. It's supposed to be tested directly out of the air pump, as shown in the EFSM. If the pump is putting out ~ 4 Hg, that's enough. I have the Toyota SST and that's what the low 'acceptable' range is (actually, I have 3 of those Toyota SSTs for test smog pumps and one has as low as 2 Hg as being 'good' range).

But I'll just say this again: I spent years - YEARS - doing this exact troubleshooting that you're doing, trying to figure out why the AI would not function during smog testing, though all of the FSM tests where within spec, UNTIL I replaced the emissions computer with a known good unit.

Edit : didn't see Slow Left's post until after posting, but he's right.
 
Spike Strip - I was actually planning on bypassing the computer to always run air to the manifold for the test as per the FSM this is where it should be at 15 and 25 mph. I am not trying to cheat but need to rule out the computer. What made me think to try this is there needs to be a lot of volume to register on the gauge with the 5.5mm hole open at the end of the SST. I will check it again at the pump outlet to verify.

I want so badly to find the smoking gun...

Slow left - the website says it is not a fit to an 85 landcruiser, have you tried them?
 
salvage60 said:
Slow left - the website says it is not a fit to an 85 landcruiser, have you tried them?
Click to expand...

Ohhhh....sorry man...good catch.

No, I've got an '82 and the ones that I bought (same PN on the link I provided above) fit correctly and work on both the Air Rail and the skinny exhaust pipe on my USA 1982 FJ60.

I can't speak for whether or not those exact PNs would fit and work on 1985 and later models...I'm not sure what the difference is or would likely be...

EDIT: I've got a 12/1981 USA FJ60...technically it's an '81 as far as production date goes, but I think it is considered an '82...
 
Last edited:
Thanks much for the link, I just ordered two to be safe.
 
Sorry, my mistake (been awhile since I've thought about this) -- 2 Hg is about 1 Lb / in-squared at some temp standard (I forget). So the above gauge is 2 PSI or 4 Hg for a min 'good' reading, the other gauges are not measured, but read about the same with pumps. As you can see other one is around the 4 psi mark. These SSTs were not made exclusively for Land Cruisers, but I *think* the 5.5 mm orifice adapter 'calibrates' them to the LC pumps ?

Honestly, I don't use them 'cuz as you can see, very little pressure is necessary from the pump. I just use my thumb over the pump output tube and rev to 1.5K-2K and if it's blowing reasonably well, you're gonna be ok and should look elsewhere for the problem, though it's certainly possible one or more of the carbon vanes have come apart and found their way into the ABV.




IMG_3565.webp
 
Ok, new gauge that has a 1 -15 psi range and the engine running at smog test rpm (about 1590 rpm). I am only getting 1.5 psi and not even 2 if I rev the engine higher. I think it is either worn or missing a vane. If I cover the orifice with my finger the gauge gets to just over 2 psi, most likely not enough to overcome the old check valves. I know I am not connected to the direct output of the pump but having just rebuilt the ABV it is pretty easy to direct the air where you want with the vac lines. The fact that it is close is is why I assumed it was ok in the beginning and have been chasing too many other things. Next step, new pump.
20141217_180121 (2).webp
 
I have not solved this yet but I am getting to know the smog tech quite well. I put a rebuilt pump in, new AI check valve and tested the pump. I was disappointed to see it was not much better than my old one but it was just within spec. FAIL AGAIN. Went through the emmisions manual again and double checked all the little parts, the biggest issue was some resistance in the charcoal canister. The biggest item I found was I could lean out the idle mix a fair amount after all of the other adjustments. The vac is steady at 21in at idle, timing per spec, the cat measured 430 degrees in and 750 out...

About throw in the towel on this.

2014-12-27 CRUISER SMOG LOG.webp
 
Emissions in California suck! I went thru this with mine, I got it on the 3rd try but spent way to much time and money! It's great when you get it but now I dread having to go thru it again in 6 months! My 2 yr mark is coming up. We need the 30yr rule back.
 
salvage60 said:
the biggest issue was some resistance in the charcoal canister
Click to expand...
Don't worry about the charcoal canister. There is some resistance to flow because of the internal check valve. Smog Test does not care about that and it does not affect the "sniffer". IIRC you passed the EVAP portion of the test anyway. Concentrate on previously mentioned possibilities.
 
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