Cabin air filter conversion - LC100 to LX470 (5 Viewers)

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No filter door (access) on my '03, but honestly, the quality of the air has always been very good - so I'm not worried about it...
 
I finally got around to this mod today. I ordered the 2 covers and filters from a Lexus dealership - the part numbers were the same as Sc4Hundred noted above. It was a very straight forward mod with the exception being one bolt of the original cover being slightly difficult to remove. And the original cover itself was very difficult to removes as there isn't much room there. A buddy that is very good at this type of thing was able to remove it pretty quickly after my frustration got the better of me. The top left clip of the original cover broke during the removal process just like Feddomw's.
The new covers went on easily and it sealed up with no leaks or drips - knock wood. As for my evaporator it was very clean as there was no mold and only a tiny amount of debris in there, I expected a lot more leaves and piles of dirt.
Thanks to RobRed and Feddomw for the instructions. Happy with the results.
Ive got a 2004 Landcruiser with an evaporator water leak on the bottom of the evaporator cover, can I remove and replace the cover without removing the dash?
Dirkcork@gmail.com
 
Yes you can. It's when you have to remove the Evap core you have to either remove the IP or cut the glove box lower mounting rail.
 
Yes you can. It's when you have to remove the Evap core you have to either remove the IP or cut the glove box lower mounting rail.
Thanks I just left Kings Toyota in Mason Ohio and I did my best to explain that the front cover of the evaporator should come off without removal of the dash, previous threads explain that if you loosen up a dash support bolt there is enough room the remove the cover plate. I am having an evaporator cabin leak at the bottom of the cover plate and explained that my model has no cabin air filter and its possible its full of debris or that the gasket is bad. Can you think of any other thing which might create a water drip from the evaporator cover plate? The drain is open and flowing just fine.
 
No. It's not unusual for this to happen. It's condensate. It's an easy fix. Should be less than a 1 hour job.
 
Supra88 is right. Just be sure and have a new cover handy as there is a better than even chance the top left clip breaks upon removal. Sorry I didn't respond sooner.
 
I just removed my evap door couple weeks back to install replacement door that accepts filters. Not too difficult and was certainly very dirty inside. I had no leaks though. You could have some dirt piled in the middle and some water makes it to the drain while the other sits against evap door and leaks?

Anyway, couple thoughts. If your gonna pull that door I'd go ahead and buy replacement door with filter access panel. About a $60 upgrade, including filters.

Also I'm south of Dayton so if you get really frustrated let me know, maybe I could help ya out.
 
I just removed my evap door couple weeks back to install replacement door that accepts filters. Not too difficult and was certainly very dirty inside. I had no leaks though. You could have some dirt piled in the middle and some water makes it to the drain while the other sits against evap door and leaks?

Anyway, couple thoughts. If your gonna pull that door I'd go ahead and buy replacement door with filter access panel. About a $60 upgrade, including filters.

Also I'm south of Dayton so if you get really frustrated let me know, maybe I could help ya out.
What year is you
I just removed my evap door couple weeks back to install replacement door that accepts filters. Not too difficult and was certainly very dirty inside. I had no leaks though. You could have some dirt piled in the middle and some water makes it to the drain while the other sits against evap door and leaks?

Anyway, couple thoughts. If your gonna pull that door I'd go ahead and buy replacement door with filter access panel. About a $60 upgrade, including filters.

Also I'm south of Dayton so if you get really frustrated let me know, maybe I could help ya out.

Thanks for the offer I am in Mason Ohio, Ive got an appointment Saturday at the dealership to address the leak and a backup appointment for Monday at a local shop which claims its no big deal to open evaporator door and clean out.

My 2004 Landcruiser also has a rough idle and vibration which is worse in drive and creates a vibration when air conditioner cycles on, the plugs have been changed and the throttle body has been cleaned. The vibration is most noted when idling stopped at a traffic light and worse in the cold winter months howerver and slight increase in throttle makes the problem go away and the vibration goes away. Ive had it at Toyota and a local shop and both say its fine for having 165,725 miles. Any ideas on what the problem may be?
 
Have you checked your engine beautification cover? The rubber mounts dry out and cause a horrendous vibration especially at low rpms. Easy to check by just removing it if you haven't already.
 
Have you checked your engine beautification cover? The rubber mounts dry out and cause a horrendous vibration especially at low rpms. Easy to check by just removing it if you haven't already.
I will check it out however this vibration can be felt in the steering wheel.
Thanks
 
Just did this to my '04. Easy, peasy. Ordered the parts indicated in this thread ( in post #34 from Camelback Toyota. Had to search by Part #. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ca...ion-lc100-to-lx470.501701/page-2#post-6790218) for the cover and door, and got the cheap air filters on Amazon (TYC 800099P2 Lexus Replacement Cabin Air Filter - 2-pack for about the price of one OEM filter ~$18). My old cover was leaking, and dripping on passenger's legs. Old cover had no gasket. I used black permatex in the outer groove of the new cover and that worked to stop the leak. The always-damp leaves and twigs were sucked out, which really ought to help the dank smell, as should dry carpet. Just a note, I used tons of vinyl gloves and paper towels on the carpet to keep the permatex from getting all over as the new cover was coerced back into place. Keeps things tidy. Old cover came out without breakage. That's the one nice thing about the heat during this time of year in PHX, all the plastic is nice and pliable... :( Still have the Toyota AC refresh kit to blow up in there and clean things up. Again, Camelback Toyota came through, finding a kit laying around, even though they say that the 00289-ACRKT is no longer a valid part number in the system. This is the Toyota version of frigi-fresh.
 
Thanks I just left Kings Toyota in Mason Ohio and I did my best to explain that the front cover of the evaporator should come off without removal of the dash, previous threads explain that if you loosen up a dash support bolt there is enough room the remove the cover plate. I am having an evaporator cabin leak at the bottom of the cover plate and explained that my model has no cabin air filter and its possible its full of debris or that the gasket is bad. Can you think of any other thing which might create a water drip from the evaporator cover plate? The drain is open and flowing just fine.


This just happened to me. I have only had my 99 for less than 2 weeks and had a little drip on the pass side footwell.

Once you remove the glove box and the upper cover, you will need to remove the 4 screws for the lower dash cover as well. There is only 1 screw that is difficult to remove, it is blocked partially by the dash frame. I just used a second flathead to pry the support out of the way while I turned the screw. It was pretty easy and simple 30 minute job. I used bleach and a toothbrush to clean the evaporator core, then followed up with straight water.

I put my shop vac on blow and used it to dry out the evaporator core before buttoning everything up. I made a new gasket out of a piece of foam rubber seal I had laying around. I just cut it to the right width with a razor, then worked it into the channel with a pick tool. I need to put a cabin air filter but just haven't done it yet.
 
I'm embarrassed how long it took me to remove and replace my cover with another including the door. There was quite a bit of debris in there, glad I was able to clean it out.
How long before I see if I butchered the gasket?
 
I did this exact retro to my 2007 LC. Order the new panel that has the opening for the filters, two filters, and the "door" that goes on after filters installed. It is a relatively simple task; remove antenna relay and go for it. Hardest part is wiggling the old panel out, then new one in. CDan has all the parts. Somebody here on Mud posted photos.

You shuttle one filter in the slot, then push it down, second filter goes right in same slot and meets up with edge of first one. <45 minutes to complete retro.
 
OK, I'm all in on this thread again. I am the topic starter, it's been 5(!) years.

Just got a new-to-me 100 as seen in this thread: What's this for? And .....presenting my new LC100:

Discovered today that this Middle East spec 100 (they have sand and dust there, right?) does not have the slots in the cover.

So, repeat the exercise again. How the HELL did I do this 5 year ago? I can't get the evap cover off behind that dash cross member.
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I have also realised why some trucks don't have the slots, my new model had another relay next to and attached to the antenna relay.
 
Can't you just cut the slot without removing the cover? Got a "Fein"saw?
 
Can't you just cut the slot without removing the cover? Got a "Fein"saw?

Theoretically, yes. But this car needs some TLC and judging by many other (interior) parts the evap will be filthy as hell. I just dropped the fan and it was absolutely coated in very fine cementlike dust. I can only imagine that stuff caked to the evap core.

Ideally I would open it up and get in there with foam, special brush, compressed air, etc.
 
I can't believe they are not fitted as standard, I thought all cars with air conditioning had them, I was shocked when I went to buy one in the dealership and they said it didn't have one fitted. The Evap must get seriously caked up with dust and stuff. It's a service item so they would earn money out of it, So why leave it out as the lx has one fitted so the tooling is there.
 
5 years on and Evap-cover-switchout-2.0 is done! I finished again, and should anyone read this who is struggling, the trick to removing and replacing the cover is to tilt it sideways, and not try to remove/install form the bottom but from the top. Removal is drop a little bit, tilt it (there is a cutout in the plastic cross member to accommodate some of the "sticking-out" evap cover parts and lift it out.

Replacement of new cover went surprisingly easily.

Very very happy with this result. Again, A/C system was absolutely filthy, totally worth it.
 
For the lucky person getting my LC soon, you'll have the piece of mind that this mod to retro fit a cabin filter has been completed. I was SHOCKED by the amount of crud, dog hair (previous owner) was in there.


I figured I'd check the LC at the same time as the LX and decided to poke around the auto yards for piece...found it right away and paid 5 bucks for the cover!
 

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