Cabin air filter conversion - LC100 to LX470 (1 Viewer)

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So I bit the bullet today and did it; whilst it was a tedious as far as cutting out the false wall with a hacksaw blade in a confined space, it actually turned out pretty good.

I took a few pictures and was going to do a write up on it on LCOOL but it was actually quite straight forward to do.

I also replaced the lower seal with some sponge strip from Clark Rubber as well as installed another sponge strip all the way around the mating surface of the face place. Mine didn't have one previously but I believe they're meant to?

Anyway here's hoping that all of the dripping on passengers feet is gone as well as nice clean filtered air!

Thanks for the pics and encouragement to cut up my box to fit the filters.
I am going to attempt this soon, but thinking I will use an extra long drill tip to put some holes in it before hacksawing the midsection it off.

Will put a vacuum on it between periods of cuts too. Interested about the filters more to be honest, were they a snug fit after hacksawing this section off?

Probably the easiest mod for cabin filters for us Australians with that problem.
 
I am going to attempt this soon, but thinking I will use an extra long drill tip to put some holes in it before hacksawing the midsection it off.

Will put a vacuum on it between periods of cuts too. Interested about the filters more to be honest, were they a snug fit after hacksawing this section off?

Probably the easiest mod for cabin filters for us Australians with that problem.
Hey mate,
The filters are a snug fit yep. The divider that you're cutting out is as wide as the filter itself. The divider is only there to separate recycled air vs "outside air", when you cut that out it's then relying on a nice seal of the filter to get that separation still.

Here are some pictures to help you out with getting a feel for what needs to be done.

Apologies as they're the only ones I took. You'll be able to see the channels at the top that you need to be careful of (you need to make sure you leave them there for the filter to be able to slot in correctly), I took my time with a knife on them once I'd done a horizontal cut just below them.

I also hosed out the entire box with a garden hose and medium pressure nozzle to get all of the crap out of there as well as clean the drain at the rear where the hose goes down through the firewall.

It was also a good time to replace all of the seals on the door as the factory one (at the bottom) had perished and couldn't be purchased any more. I just bought some strips of rubber from Clark Rubber and very painstakingly cut long lengths to feed into that seal as well as add one around the entire outer diameter of the door (in the seating channel) so that I would get a proper seal. I've not had any dripping on the passenger footwell since.

I've noticed a huge difference when driving in an offroad convoy (no dust in the cabin) since doing the above work. Would highly recommend!!!

A774C2DA-BA28-4536-ACC5-FA2C09A9BC41.png


3D964B8E-DCD4-4E89-8667-564DDD97E646.png


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B3D4ADF9-EDE3-48CA-83F0-9E5B0A020AFC.png
 
Hey mate,
The filters are a snug fit yep. The divider that you're cutting out is as wide as the filter itself. The divider is only there to separate recycled air vs "outside air", when you cut that out it's then relying on a nice seal of the filter to get that separation still.

Here are some pictures to help you out with getting a feel for what needs to be done.

Apologies as they're the only ones I took. You'll be able to see the channels at the top that you need to be careful of (you need to make sure you leave them there for the filter to be able to slot in correctly), I took my time with a knife on them once I'd done a horizontal cut just below them.

I also hosed out the entire box with a garden hose and medium pressure nozzle to get all of the crap out of there as well as clean the drain at the rear where the hose goes down through the firewall.

It was also a good time to replace all of the seals on the door as the factory one (at the bottom) had perished and couldn't be purchased any more. I just bought some strips of rubber from Clark Rubber and very painstakingly cut long lengths to feed into that seal as well as add one around the entire outer diameter of the door (in the seating channel) so that I would get a proper seal. I've not had any dripping on the passenger footwell since.

I've noticed a huge difference when driving in an offroad convoy (no dust in the cabin) since doing the above work. Would highly recommend!!!

View attachment 2745316

View attachment 2745317

View attachment 2745318

View attachment 2745319
That is insane, awesome reply and pics. So good that those filters just slot straight in, albeit on tracks and all !

I have just gone through the entire process of replacing all AC components except hard lines. So the evap core is brand new -- so want those filters in to stop stuff gunking up the new evap fins. Imagine it would mould quite quickly if left like that !

How wide does the inside width cut need to be <-> does it meet the end perfectly. What I mean:
1627610968327.png


I mean horizontal width obviously, wouldn't want air escaping around to and from the inside vs outside air compartments.

Must be easier if you get the cabin filters first so you can kinda measure the width of those.

I'm thinking this black cross section sits in between those 2 compartments you mention, so blocks the air from entering from one side to the other.
1627610792434.png


I also notice, for instance the Lexus cabin filters, the back half of the filter is larger than the front. When I took the evaporator out when replacing it, I noticed in our 100s the back compartment is smaller, thus on our cabin fitlers this section is smaller, front larger. Something to note when buying the filters in Australia.
 
That is insane, awesome reply and pics. So good that those filters just slot straight in, albeit on tracks and all !

I have just gone through the entire process of replacing all AC components except hard lines. So the evap core is brand new -- so want those filters in to stop stuff gunking up the new evap fins. Imagine it would mould quite quickly if left like that !

How wide does the inside width cut need to be <-> does it meet the end perfectly. I mean horizontal width obviously, wouldn't want air escaping around to and from the inside vs outside air compartments. Must be easier if you get the cabin filters first so you can kinda measure the width of those.

I'm thinking this black cross section sits in between those 2 compartments you mention, so blocks the air from entering from one side to the other.
View attachment 2745326

I also notice, for instance the Lexus cainb filters, the back half of the filter is larger than the front. When I took the evaporator out when replacing it, I noticed in our 100s the back compartment is smaller, thus on our cabin fitlers this section is smaller, front larger. Something to note when buying the filters in Australia.
Hey,

I found it to be pretty much spot on if I cut out the entire width that was available (you'll see what I mean when you get to the job to do it). It was a snug fit. You'll be able to put your filter in there and wiggle it side to side before you do the cuts to get a feel for it anyway. You'll never get 100% seal because of the way the filter is built but you will get it pretty bloody good as per what they should be.

You know what, I had never even considered that plastic vertical divider to be the bit that rests against the 2 compartments but that would make sense.

I think from memory I cheaped out and bought filters off ebay because the genuine ones were way too expensive lol. I think they were pretty much the same width all the way from front to back but not certain.

Have you got a door "flap" to use so that you can cut out the opening to replace filters?

I would strongly recommend doing the rubber seals too, it made a huge difference.

Cheers
 
Hey,

I found it to be pretty much spot on if I cut out the entire width that was available (you'll see what I mean when you get to the job to do it). It was a snug fit. You'll be able to put your filter in there and wiggle it side to side before you do the cuts to get a feel for it anyway. You'll never get 100% seal because of the way the filter is built but you will get it pretty bloody good as per what they should be.

You know what, I had never even considered that plastic vertical divider to be the bit that rests against the 2 compartments but that would make sense.

I think from memory I cheaped out and bought filters off ebay because the genuine ones were way too expensive lol. I think they were pretty much the same width all the way from front to back but not certain.

Have you got a door "flap" to use so that you can cut out the opening to replace filters?

I would strongly recommend doing the rubber seals too, it made a huge difference.

Cheers
Yeah, seen the DENSO cabin filters on Ebay for $235 a pop ! crazy.

Yep, replaced the lower seal on the evap cover, had too because the Evap was so new it was sweating water everywhere when the car was at rest.
Did that with some AC pipe insulation foam. cut a very thin strip and layered it around the bottom cover section.

I also have the cabin filter flap already, think most AU models do.

No sweat such an easy fix for cabin filter. Wish there was moor detailed info around when I first started searching ages ago. Lost hope.

Thinking I will get these filters for the job:

Have the middle section on both white and grey versions. (Western filters)
 
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Yeah, seen the DENSO cabin filters on Ebay for $235 a pop ! crazy.

Yep, replaced the lower seal on the evap cover, had too because the Evap was so new it was sweating water everywhere when the car was at rest.
Did that with some AC pipe insulation foam. cut a very thin strip and layered it around the bottom cover section.

I also have the cabin filter flap already, think most AU models do.

No sweat such an easy fix for cabin filter. Wish there was moor detailed info around when I first started searching ages ago. Lost hope.

Thinking I will get these filters for the job:
Yeah, seen the DENSO cabin filters on Ebay for $235 a pop ! crazy.

Yep, replaced the lower seal on the evap cover, had too because the Evap was so new it was sweating water everywhere when the car was at rest.
Did that with some AC pipe insulation foam. cut a very thin strip and layered it around the bottom cover section.

I also have the cabin filter flap already, think most AU models do.

No sweat such an easy fix for cabin filter. Wish there was moor detailed info around when I first started searching ages ago. Lost hope.

Thinking I will get these filters for the job:

Have the middle section on both white and grey versions. (Western filters)
I cheaped out and bought these ultra cheap ones but they have worked fine.

CABIN AIR FILTER KIT OF 2 FOR TOYOTA LANDCRUISER UZJ100 4.7L 2UZ-FE 1998-9/2007 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CABIN-AIR-FILTER-KIT-OF-2-FOR-TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-UZJ100-4-7L-2UZ-FE-1998-9-2007-/133061015192?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0

I didn't have the flap there, I have a HDJ100 Sahara (2003). Had to cut out the slot in the door and purchase the little tab with the foam backing etc.

Cheers

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1998 FZJ105R 4.5L 6cyl Petrol has the clip on filter flap.

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That measurement doesn't help me at all btw :D
 
I


I cheaped out and bought these ultra cheap ones but they have worked fine.

CABIN AIR FILTER KIT OF 2 FOR TOYOTA LANDCRUISER UZJ100 4.7L 2UZ-FE 1998-9/2007 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CABIN-AIR-FILTER-KIT-OF-2-FOR-TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-UZJ100-4-7L-2UZ-FE-1998-9-2007-/133061015192?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0

I didn't have the flap there, I have a HDJ100 Sahara (2003). Had to cut out the slot in the door and purchase the little tab with the foam backing etc.

Cheers

View attachment 2745354
Hi Purchased a pair of these but they sent the ones with the long front section and short back section, not short front long back like in the photos . Unfortunately I did the cut before I realised as you can see from the photo.. so it is to long to fit in the filter box :(




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Some interesting photos comparing the airboxes were the filters fit of various models... There are two airboxes from Australian delivered ' cruisers and one from a US delivered lx470. It clearly shows the difference between the US delivered lx470 that came with the filters vs the Australian delivered vehicles ...

Question ... did any Australian delivered 100 series 'cruisers come with a factory cabin air filter or had a factory air filter available ?

Firstly from a RHD LX470 in Australia (Photo from Toyrolla wreckers add).. You can clearly see it has the access port to insert a filter...

Did this have a factory filter as the filter slot does not go all the way through ? If it did I wonder what the part number was ?

Does this mean that when cutting out the divider in the Australian delivered models it makes no difference if you completely remove the divider to make it like the US lx470 ?

Or does the US LX470 have different routing of outside air and cabin air re-circulation from the Australian LX470 ?

lx47-rhd-1.jpg


Lexus 470 LHD from US that had filters..You can see how the filters go all the way down... no divider (Photo from cruisermart add) ..

LX470 AC Airbox .jpg



This is from a GXL 105 RHD... again it has the airbox divider similar to the RHD LX470. Not this does not have the access to insert the filter

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Yep, that centre bit can be cut out with the evap in or out. But you need to be accurate or air will follow the point of least resistance and go around the air filter rather than flow through it into the vents. So happy to get the full filter in though. Air quality in 20 year old cruisers sux, especially if youve still got the old mouldy evap unit still in it ha ha haaa
 
Those Australia Evap box's you're looking at too with the centre section -- never ever had cabin filter manufactured/designed ever buy anyone in Toyota or the aftermarket business(s).
 
Those Australia Evap box's you're looking at too with the centre section -- never ever had cabin filter manufactured/designed ever buy anyone in Toyota or the aftermarket business(s).

Yeah so I wish I had read this thread before ordering parts. I bought the parts that appeared to be correct on the fische at Amayama. They arrived after like 6 months of waiting and they are wrong. Part 88891-60040 is for a LHD vehicle. The cover is opposite hand to what is on mine (RHD Australia). No drama, as I just need to cut the hole in the one I have to fit the filters through and add the door since the cover I have has the tabs for the door to fit, just no hole. Wrong, as described above there is a divider that needs to come out.

From what I can see, the near side is for return cabin air, and the far side is the outside air path. Double bummer because the divder prevents cleaning of the outside air side!! I did contemplate cutting the divider out but not really sure how to go about that and no guarantee the filters will fit in once I do.

The good news, is the glove box is two bolts and out, then the bar is two bolts and out. From there there is obstruction to removing the cover unlike the other posts and videos showing it needing to be wriggled out from under the cross bar. So still considering if I try cutting that centre divider out or not. I suppose can't hurt since others appear to have done so and fitted the filters.



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Does this mean that when cutting out the divider in the Australian delivered models it makes no difference if you completely remove the divider to make it like the US lx470 ?

Hi @R0bl I believe it does. The air filters have a divider built into them so if you cut the air box to remove the divder, and insert the filters you still end up with two separate air paths. Thus far though I am too unsure to cut the divider out of mine.
 
So you cut the centre divider out of the air box and the filters fit in okay? Would you mind describing how you cut it out? Thanks @highkick05
Hey mate,

I put some pictures and info in post #243 above. Just use a thin hacksaw blade (or something similar) and cut it out as per the pictures. It’s very obvious once you get in there which bit needs to go.

Cheers

Post in thread 'Cabin air filter conversion - LC100 to LX470'
Cabin air filter conversion - LC100 to LX470 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cabin-air-filter-conversion-lc100-to-lx470.501701/post-13976835
 
So you cut the centre divider out of the air box and the filters fit in okay? Would you mind describing how you cut it out? Thanks @highkick05

Hey mate,

I put some pictures and info in post #243 above. Just use a thin hacksaw blade (or something similar) and cut it out as per the pictures. It’s very obvious once you get in there which bit needs to go.

Cheers

Post in thread 'Cabin air filter conversion - LC100 to LX470'
Cabin air filter conversion - LC100 to LX470 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cabin-air-filter-conversion-lc100-to-lx470.501701/post-13976835

Yeop, so when you cut the centre divider, just make sure it is measured up and you cut it so NO air can escape through any holes through/before it hits the filters.
Best way to know if you've done a good cut, is put the filters in, and if they are a snug and little hard to push in -- you've got a pretty tight fit.
As for whether there _IS_ a hard plastic divider part in the centre of the filters -- I am not totally sure perhaps some of the cabin filters do.
I think the cabin filter I purchased, it wasn't precisely in line. BUT , you can be sure it does a good job seperating the two sections anyway as it is just another 20mm of added plastic tbh and I'm sure its still going through the filter paper->though to the other side all the same. Mines works as normal, definitely has gotten rid of all the mould/harsh bacteria smells. I kid you not, I used to cough while driving... breathing in the s*** stuck in the original evap box. But I have renewed the entire system minus the lines and 2 AC control relays for the low speed controls -- so there should not be any smell at all !
Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, TX Valve, Blower, blower resistor, all sensors (thermister/AC temp sensor), comp oil, orings + regas'd at the shop. Brand new AC system in effect. Anyway, I can't live without AC and I love my 105 so job was definitely worth it :) Can't wait for summer, dont need a fan on the condenser at all but might buy the 100 series fan online and slap it on just for quicker cooling temps on those hot days!
 
Thanks. Got it done on the weekend. Just cut holes with a hole saw and inserted the hack saw through to cut down. Needed a course file to clean up top and bottom around the rails that support the filters. Mine had two ridges on the divider which align with where to cut. I only have maybe 2mm of the divider left. I don't think it matters though. It's all going through the same evaporator. As to bleeding from the fan side, I never run my fan over low anyway so I cannot see a little loss past the divider to the outside being an issue compared to the cyclone I get on higher fan speeds.

Biggest bummer is the filter cost. They were $80 each for me!
 

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