C-Channel: To Replace or Not Replace (1 Viewer)

[Yankee]

Hello everyone! I'm pretty new here as I just acquired my first 60-series a couple of weeks ago, but I have some questions about the C-Channels on the rig. I'm wondering if I could get away with not replacing them and just de-greasing/metal-prepping/POR-15-ing them, or if they need to be replaced in their current condition. There's some de-lamination occurring, but it doesn't seem too bad. I've read multiple other forums of people replacing them and the complexity of the work (mainly the rivets) and would like to avoid that, but if they absolutely need it then I'll bite the bullet. What do others think?

 

[JayDoc]

I'll yield to others with more experience than me but those look pretty decent. Probably better than mine. Unless you're planning on going all dukes of hazzard with your 60, you're probably good not to replace that just yet.
When you are ready to reinforce it, trail tailor makes a nice kit.

C-Channel Kit 60 Series

Toyota Land Cruiser 60 series rear C-Channel Kit Strengthen up that rusty rear frame 3/16" channel reinforcement rails with Grade 8 hardware Bare metal One kit includes a right and a left side

trail-tailor.com

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

They look good. Fluid film and run it

 

[F226continental]

Drive it

 

[OSS]

Those look fine. Just soak them in the corrosion inhibitor of choice.

 

[The Phoenician]

This is just my OCD talking, but I'm a firm believer that when in doubt, overbuild it. I'd get the trail tailor C channel Kit and beef it up. Paint and never ever worry about it again.

 

[Graniteone]

I guess it depends what you are going to do with your rig. If you are going to put on an after market bumper or tow anything you should probably just bite the bullet and get it done with the Trail Tailor C channel kit. Good luck!

 

[MarkBC]

Those arent terrible but also arent good. Based on mine, I dont think any penetrating rust inhibitor will get through that scale to halt the rust's progress, it will only get worse. I presume you won't be driving in winter salt. You could ignore it for a while but eventually they will need to be replaced.

It took me 3 years to get mine off. Which was about 30 days of several hours each. Any day I got one rivet out I considered a success. I think my problem was my air chisel wasnt powerful enough. Considering what my time is worth, its worth several hundred bucks to get proper tools to make it go quicker. Also the issue is you have to be careful not to damage anything nearby so thats partly why it takes so long.

My problem was that I was powering the chisel through those dinky little plastic air coils which cant handle the air volume needed.

So you need: a decent air compressor but it doesnt have to be huge. If its smaller you'll just have to take more breaks while it catches up. You need an air filter and dryer. I was getting water coming through the chisel which isnt good. But the problem with that is, the filter will restrict your instantaneous max flow. So you'll also need another air tank/receiver downstream of the dryer. This can be an old compressor tank. You can feed the dryer and receiver with the dinky yellow hose but the hose from the receiver to the chisel needs to be a proper hefty air hose.

The chisel can be a cheap one. It's the air supply that matters.

Also I needed to drill out most rivets with successively larger bits until they just fell apart. This is very tricky for some upper rivets since you have to put the drill bit through the lower rivet holes. Which means you need extra long bits to reach. Maybe some people were able to knock the rivets out with the hammer instead of drilling but it didnt work for me.

 

[aviafx]

My vote: Purchase the C channel kit while it's available and stash it in the garage for when you have a free couple of days to work on it in the next few years.

 

[Spook50]

Those are in considerably better condition than mine are. I would leave them in, spray em down with a corrosion inhibitor, and give em a looksee every year or so.

 

[60Works]

I've done 2 truck's C-channels (medium rusty) and didn't find it that difficult of a job. My air chisel wiped the heads off in seconds each. Followed later with a punch to knock the shank out. And a prybar to lever them out. I believe people when they say its one of their worst Cruiser job experiences but it wasn't for mine.

Rust spreads like cancer. Rusty channels will ruin the frame over time. When to do the work depends on your intent of use. If you plan to keep your truck forever or are restoring it, do it sooner than later. If its a beater, let it go.

 

[MarkBC]

I've done 2 truck's C-channels (medium rusty) and didn't find it that difficult of a job. My air chisel wiped the heads off in seconds each. Followed later with a punch to knock the shank out. And a prybar to lever them out. I believe people when they say its one of their worst Cruiser job experiences but it wasn't for mine.

Rust spreads like cancer. Rusty channels will ruin the frame over time. When to do the work depends on your intent of use. If you plan to keep your truck forever or are restoring it, do it sooner than later. If its a beater, let it go.

I think this is a good example of why it's important to use the right method and not skimp out on the proper tools to save a few $$. I wasted a lot of time with my little air chisel setup; just not worth it for a few hundred extra to get the heavy duty tools that are going to get the job done.

But my suspension delete was ridiculously easy.

 

[Yankee]

Thanks for all of the replies! I think when I have some extra cash lying around I'll purchase the kit and save it for later. I live in a state that doesn't salt roads so I dont have to worry about that. I already plan to patch some rust spots on the body with POR15 and was going to coat the frame and underside with it as well. I can see about in the winter taking a weekend to knock these out since I have access to a 4-post lift and a giant air compressor. I'd just have to get an air chisel.