Bypass TVSS ignition lockout from the harness? (1 Viewer)

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The TVSS box in my '94 has decided to auto-arm after 20 seconds and i cannot find any discussion of how that gets disabled. The manuals i have found say "contact the dealer" to enable it.

Also, the one fob i can find anymore is dying. I have electronic repair experience - it's not the button switch. I swapped the two switches and the one responsible for lock/unlock is still the one that rarely works. I tried reflowing the board.

It's not clear whether the replacement RS3k fobs can be trained to work with the TVSS and even then, the ******* auto-arm.

I have an entry-level Viper alarm w/ remote entry ready to go in.

Someone is gonna try to be the first to say that i should remove the TVSS harness and my response is: I choose not to. I understand the arguments for that position.

Also i understand that unlike the rs3k harness, it's installed with t-taps. So there is no upside to ****ing with it.

Further, I understand that the bulk of TVSS knowledge already posted seems to be in these two threads:


But it seems that, like the rs3k, maybe there are 3 or 4 versions of them just among 80 series land cruisers, and $diety knows how many versions of the TVSS in existence.

I can tell you that manually grounding positions on my TVSS harness connector that may be the ignition relay ground according to the data in those threads has not allowed it to start with the TVSS unplugged.

Yeah, I've got various multimeters and have been careful to avoid grounding a position that has positive voltage in any of the ignition switch positions. If i need to add a relay, I got relays aplenty.

Anybody got any experience to share?
 
Its something to do with the ignition sequence IIRC. I will try and dig up a manual for it tomorrow. The tvss is connected to the ignition circuit. If you remove it or unplug you wont start. Its one of the first things to look for when you have no starting voltage. Or you can be like me and unplug it for anti theft
 
The TVSS box in my '94 has decided to auto-arm after 20 seconds and i cannot find any discussion of how that gets disabled.
the brain box should be under your drivers seat. there is a switch on it you can slide to disable the alarm functions; leaving the keyless part functional. have you tried that?
Also i understand that unlike the rs3k harness, it's installed with t-taps. So there is no upside to f***ing with it.
incorrect. there are two T-taps; one for the tail lights and one for the horn. the bulk of the harness is via male-female connectors and a proper T harness. i haven't tried it personally, but you could probably disconnect just the T portion at the ignition harness under the steering wheel, and leave the T's in the kickpanel connected. if you insist on not removing the TVSS. the preferred move is cannabilize the T harness to use with a Viper, etc.
 
the brain box should be under your drivers seat. there is a switch on it you can slide to disable the alarm functions; leaving the keyless part functional. have you tried that?

incorrect. there are two T-taps; one for the tail lights and one for the horn. the bulk of the harness is via male-female connectors and a proper T harness. i haven't tried it personally, but you could probably disconnect just the T portion at the ignition harness under the steering wheel, and leave the T's in the kickpanel connected. if you insist on not removing the TVSS. the preferred move is cannabilize the T harness to use with a Viper, etc.

Yeah, i moved the switch to the position clearly marked "NO SECURITY" and now i have 20 seconds after unlocking the door with the key to start the engine before the alarm goes off.

The plan is to reuse the TVSS harness, but first i have to figure out how to still start the engine with the box removed.
 
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but first i have to figure out how to still start the engine with the box removed
follow one of the detailed posts on here to remove the TVSS/RS3000; they are nearly identical.

short version is:
-remove all trim panels from the footwell
-pop out alarm LED dash plug
-disconnect plugs in kick panel, and reconnect factory plugs. 2x for the plugs there
-remove vampire tap at green light relay box
-unbolt ignition kill relay
-disconnect plugs under steering column, and reconnect factory plugs
-remove vampire tap on horn wire

Yeah, i moved the switch to the position clearly marked "NO SECURITY" and now i have 20 seconds after unlocking the door with the key to start the engine before the alarm goes off.
dang. thats odd. mine stopped working completely, but that failure mode is more acceptable than yours
 
I'd prefer to adapt the tvss harness to the viper box.

And yeah. I might bring the tvss box inside and apply some contact cleaner to the switches, maybe refresh the capacitors. It's all pretty annoying, but i still want keyless entry and an alarm system.
 
looks like maybe, based on the diagram for a 1990 4runner, maybe i need to jump for both power and ground to the starter relay?

or i need to ground two pins.

i guess i will need to see which pins have power when the tvss is connected and the key is in the "on" position

*sigh* much data collection needed.

1675259482555-png.3235858
 
ok, there were signs of water ingress and lots of crud on the switches. flushed with isopropyl several times and now the damn thing is properly disabled.

still, next step is remove it (but keep the harness).
 
Found the starter relay lockout.

I should note that the park/neutral switch wiring on my truck was ****ed with by the shop that did my head gasket and associated onion layers. It's possible that something that's required on that side was manually bypassed. The gear selector lights and reverse lights on my truck haven't worked in the 11 years i have owned it, and still don't. But they had to replace the park/neutral connectors to get the truck to start again after putting the engine back in.

PXL_20240124_003132683.jpg
 

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