Bypass Heater control valve? (1 Viewer)

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I just picked up a 1996 that has the HCV bypassed. It's working fine for the winter here in Alaska, but before summer I want to get it back operational. Does anyone have a good photo of how the hoses run or even parts #'s for the hoses of the factory orientation?


Dip ends if you want to continue using your back heater?
 
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It’s my guess the milder climates would do well with your mod. Us desert rats are just trying to drink enough water in the day before the burros get to it all. :hillbilly:
Its your mod now too
 
I'm feeling adventurous. We get 100°+ weather here. I'm going to try this bypass, and report back.

I haven't changed the heater valve in my 80, in the 5 years I've owned it, so I know it's a ticking time bomb.
Good Luck!

I forcibly tried this mod after another four seasons but the dust (fun experiment with the aftermarket ones, but the next one will be OEM) somewhere on Sunbonnet while at the hammers recently. Thankfully @nukegoat was there to get a pic of the steam coming out from under my hood which blends so nicely with the desert colors.

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Didn’t feel like screwing with replacing a heater valve so we just put the heater full on to see what would happen.

I have to say it isn’t as bad as I expected, but in anything over 80°F ambient the AC sucks now unless you’re moving.

So I bet those in cooler climates would do well with deleting the heater valve but I’ll be reinstalling one on mine before the temps get too high again.
 
Quick question, I am in need of a heater control valve for my 94lc and wanted to see if the 95-97 hcv can be used on a 94? Is it compatible?
 
Quick question, I am in need of a heater control valve for my 94lc and wanted to see if the 95-97 hcv can be used on a 94? Is it compatible?

The valve itself is, but the bracket is different. You will need to unscrew the valve from the bracket and switch it.

Shop around. The last time I looked, partsouq had the 93-94 valve for a few bucks less than the 95-97 valve.
 
This week I jumped in my 80 and immediately noticed a misfire. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are newish. Wiring harness was routed and wrapped under previous ownership. Took the intake and throttle boddy off to inspect further and saw that my heater valve is leaking coolant directly on the injector. I'm going to change the injector and the plug as the heat has made it brittle and it cracked in my hand as I was fighting with it.

Have any of you who had leaking valve issues lost your #6 injector? Seems like this would happen all the time.
 
I realize this is an old thread, but don't know why it wasn't suggested to insert a ball valve in place of HCV so that it could still function, manually, hot & cold
 
Old thread, but maybe someone can answer a question for me.

As I got to work today, I noticed smoke from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw that the outlet side on the heater valve broke off. still have coolant, so it must have just happened.

My question is, is it okay to drive it home later (about 20mins) if I slide the heater control all the way cold ( I'm thinking this should shut the valve and keep coolant from entering the heater core). I'll of course fill up the coolant too before heading home.
 
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Old thread, but maybe someone can answer a question for me.

As I got to work today, I noticed smoke from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw that the outlet side on the heater valve broke off. still have coolant, so it must have just happened.

My question is, is it okay to drive it home later (about 20mins) if I slide the heater control all the way cold ( I'm thinking this should shut the valve and keep coolant from entering the heater core). I'll of course fill up the coolant too before heading home.
Probably already found out, but I'm gonna say no. For one, the other end is still going to be under pressure and at a minimum would need to be kinked/blocked, secondly even if you assume the valve closes flow completely that doesn't mean it can withstand a ~15psi differential
 
Probably already found out, but I'm gonna say no. For one, the other end is still going to be under pressure and at a minimum would need to be kinked/blocked, secondly even if you assume the valve closes flow completely that doesn't mean it can withstand a ~15psi differential

Correct.

It didn't work. The heater valve didn't close fully even on full cold.
I ended up putting the hose back on to the remains of the heater valve nipple and gently tightened. I crossed my fingers and hoped it would hold for the trip home.

Luckily it held and I made it home to bypass the heater valve.
 
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Correct.

It didn't work. The heater valve didn't close fully even on full cold.
I ended up putting the hose back on to the remains of the heater valve nipple and gently tightened. I crossed my fingers and hoped it would hold for the trip home.

Luckily it held and I made it home to bypass the heater valve.
glad you made it home ok. I found a hose that fits perfectly to bypass every single small heater hose except the PHH that I keep on the truck for situations just like yours. I'll try to dig up the part number as this seems an appropriate place for that info.

EDIT: Here it is Keep this with your spares - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/keep-this-with-your-spares.1348699/
 
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glad you made it home ok. I found a hose that fits perfectly to bypass every single small heater hose except the PHH that I keep on the truck for situations just like yours. I'll try to dig up the part number as this seems an appropriate place for that info.

EDIT: Here it is Keep this with your spares - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/keep-this-with-your-spares.1348699/
That's some good info. I'll try to source that hose so I can keep it as a spare in the truck.

I'm still on the fence weather to replace the valve or not. It seems the slider still controls how much heat is entering the cabin. Plus it appears the heater valve never really stops the flow of coolant to the heater core.
 
That's some good info. I'll try to source that hose so I can keep it as a spare in the truck.

I'm still on the fence weather to replace the valve or not. It seems the slider still controls how much heat is entering the cabin. Plus it appears the heater valve never really stops the flow of coolant to the heater core.
Given your location I think that you'd be fine to run without as a viable long term solution
 
Given your location I think that you'd be fine to run without as a viable long term solution
That's what I'm thinking. I'll see how it is in the summer, then make a decision
 

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