Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here

[SALTY METHODS]

I paid $17K for my '99. Super clean interior/exterior, rear locker and 76k miles. I probably paid a little more than I should have but I didn't mind paying more since I was looking for a LC for a few months and this one was exactly what I wanted (except for the lame gold emblems).

At the dealer

 

[UncleBillyCA]

That is on clean looking rig. Who cares if you paid too much Hope I can find a clean, low mileage rig like that for the price! Enjoy!

 

[Junglejack]

SoupGFX, very nice LC. Finding a low mileage LC of this vintage is exceedingly rare and the price is not bad at all considering. And with a Rear Locker, that is darn near a unicorn. For whatever reason, LX's with similar mileage are far more common. My LX is almost the same age and it had 71,000 miles when I purchased it last April.

 

[Muddy Bean]

We bought our '98 with factory locker with 105,000 miles on it in West Palm Beach. $10,500. I consider that low miles for a '98. Incidentally there was another thread on here where peeps were rightly suggesting that it takes time to find a good 100. Patience is everything in this game. I had my eye and radar out for nearly a year before jumping all over the one we bought in January. Patience paid off.

 

[jefftb]

Looking at a 2004 LX470 with 102k. I have a 97 450 with 187K.

The 100 series is a one owner with all service done at a Lexus dealership. I pulled the service records myself off the VIN and mylexus.com.

All of the 5000 mile services were done at the dealership. At 100k they did the timing belt but not the idler or tensioner pulleys nor the water pump. A few more than usual wheel alignments but that started at 20,000 miles and some Lexus owners think its out of alignment and its really road crown.

It's a totally south eastern US vehicle with nary a spot of rust on underbody. Never towed with as there is no hitch, the rear spare looks original, and the pin connector has dust in it with sparkling clean connectors.

Needs new tires for sure. I checked the AHC and its good.....there is almost 11 mark differences between low and high on the reservoir. I hit 14 and 3 as the difference points. Fluid looks really clean there and the coolant is SLLC pink lemonade.

I've driven it almost 60 miles and its smooth, vibration free, does not pull, has good transmission shifts and the body and interior are nearly spot free with no road rash and few paint chips. Leather and electronics are all good.

I poked around on the CVs and found some grease buildup.

Here is a link to some pics I took today......mostly of the CVs.

http://imgur.com/a/KGobQ

Asking $26,950 which I know is high and out of bounds. Tell me what you think of CVs and market price.

Everything works from windows to radio to rear air.

It's been in two "minor" rear accidents according to carfax...one 6 years ago and the other 5 months ago. I've checked gaps and can find one out of place on top of hatch on right rear. The lower body gaps are good.

Help me out on the CVs and what you think.

Who here has bought a minor accident listed 100 series.?

 

[FJ62INTX]

Just to ad to some opinions here....


The Low mileage, older vehicles (more than 8-10 years old) that I have seen purchased have typically had more problems if they were owned by someone who used the vehicle for short trips all the time.

The little old lady car syndrome- My mom bought 3 cars from a older friend who never drove more than 50,000 miles in her cars or her husbands cars, different brands (2 Cadillacs, 1 Buick).

All three cars had major accessory failures within 1 year of purchase and never ran properly or got acceptable fuel mileage for the models they were....

The engines all used oil, and the transmissions started slipping at 80,000 miles

This old lady had rarely driven more than 2-5 miles at a time back and forth to church and the store, never getting the engine oil or any other component fluids up to temp, creating sludge and acid buildup from condensation in the fluids.

All three vehicles were basically crap at 120,000 miles.



IMHO- buy a vehicle used with honest low to medium mileage with excellent service history vs. one with super low miles driven by a little old lady-type on short trips.


BTW- I just lucked into a 2006 100 with 100,000 miles,just had timing belt changed at dealer, new battery, new nitro terra grapplers, never been mudded, very clean overall with a fee very minor issues.

The tires and service alone were worth $2,800 !

I paid $23,000 to a private seller

 

[Junglejack]

There is certainly credence to a vehicle that is barely used over many years can be quite problematic. However, regardless of provenance, I cannot remember reading about too many horror stories on any 100 Series. Regardless of mileage.

When I purchased mine with 71,000 miles, I certainly had questions about whether or not it was off the road for extended period of time. As my older brother was going to purchase it personally and had thoroughly checked it out greatly assuaged my concerns as he started working at an Acura Dealership at 15 and has been working in the auto industry ever since. All the same, around 14,000 miles later in less than 8 months, all money spent has been on baselining and catching up on deferred maintenance.

 

[mcgaskins]

Just to ad to some opinions here....


The Low mileage, older vehicles (more than 8-10 years old) that I have seen purchased have typically had more problems if they were owned by someone who used the vehicle for short trips all the time.

The little old lady car syndrome- My mom bought 3 cars from a older friend who never drove more than 50,000 miles in her cars or her husbands cars, different brands (2 Cadillacs, 1 Buick).

All three cars had major accessory failures within 1 year of purchase and never ran properly or got acceptable fuel mileage for the models they were....

The engines all used oil, and the transmissions started slipping at 80,000 miles

This old lady had rarely driven more than 2-5 miles at a time back and forth to church and the store, never getting the engine oil or any other component fluids up to temp, creating sludge and acid buildup from condensation in the fluids.

All three vehicles were basically crap at 120,000 miles.

IMO you cannot compare the reliability of an older Buick or Cadillac to a Toyota at all. Just not fair or reasonable. I do agree that frequent short trips wreak havoc on motors and fluids however - especially in cold weather. I had a BMW X5 with the 4.4 V8 and my office was less than 2 miles from home, and the short frequent trips caused many problems including an oil line that ruptured due to sludge that dumped about 3 quarts of oil in less than 5 minutes one day. The only advice the service writer had was to take a long way to work and drive at least 5 miles with the engine fully warmed up and get out on the freeway a couple times per month and really get on the throttle to burn carbon deposits. All that said, I'd probably look for something with low miles but not absurdly low. I saw a 99 listed with 38k miles on it. I'd worry about things like dry rot and seals deteriorating and other stuff going wrong with crazy low miles. I bought my 98 with 105k on it last year and think that's the sweet spot.

 

[OregonLC]

East coast 04 with 102k and accident history should be around $19k IMO. West coast accident free would be $21-22k. CV Boot Kit is < $50 and a few hours of time, nothing to sweat.

As others have said, I'd buy accident free before looking at this. The odds of him coming down $8k in price is probably unrealistic. Move on.

 

[rochmpr]

Looking at 2000 LC

Hello to All,

I am currently an 80 series owner, but looking at a 100 series for the added powerfor pulling a pop-up trailer.

I am looking at 2000 Land Cruiser, 2 owner (2nd owner has had for 10 years). Owner states that the first owner was a doctor for 3 years, sold the vehicle to infinity Roseville with 90,000 miles, so average I put like 5000 a year, it's always garage park, All maintenance by Toyota Elk Grove and current (synthetic oil), and 18 months in Columbia, Md Toyota dealer I got transfer over there(government employee). Brand new battery, and new Michelin tires from Costco ($1000) and new brakes, new spiral belt, k&n filter. All the original keys, manuals, no tears on leather seats,no accidents, all original factory, no off-road, no modifications of any kind, California registration etc the interior not bad for a 156k.this is a weekend use vehicle or long trips. We have a civic for commute.
The only reason for selling, it's because I'm buying a new fjcruiser.

I know the K&N is crap, and should be replaced with stock element. It currently has ~156k miles and asking $11,500.

I would be hoping to talk him down under the $11k mark, closer to $10k. This sounds like a decent buy, and looks and sounds good.

I've read the Slee guide & FAQ's, but is there anything in addition to look for or any issues that could be forseen.

Thanks

 

[Tremek]

Looking at a couple LCs this weekend, would like your collective thoughts on one versus another:

1): 2000 Land Cruiser, 1 owner, 236k miles. Has extensive maintenance records, has records of the timing belt being changed at 197k, and other than a ding in the tailgate looks very clean inside and out. No rust underneath, it's a car from the South. Owner is asking $8500 - is this high/low/just right? Car is a 2 hour flight for me. Grey outside, tan inside.

2): 1998 LX470, unknown number of owners, 237k miles. Looks to be very clean inside and out, don't have as much information on it but the owner also claims to have good service records. Timing belt was changed at 225k. Supposedly everything works except for the radio. A buddy of mine is going to check out this truck tomorrow (Sunday) for me. This one is asking $7000. Car is a 2 hour flight for me.

3): 2000 Land Cruiser, at least 2+ owners, 206k miles. Going to see this one in person tomorrow, as it sits is bone stock, was apparently formerly owned by a Slee employee. Not sure on timing belt interval. Car is local, and I don't have pricing yet. White outside, grey inside.

Out of these trucks, what do you guys see as the pros/cons? The '98 LX is in the best color combination I like (gray/gray), but doesn't have ATRAC and AHC seems like it could be another cost center if I want to go with 35" down the road. None of these have lockers. I think tan interiors are my least favorite.

My ultimate goal is to work whatever truck I end up with into an overland/light to medium wheeling vehicle over the next year or so, no doubt with many visits to Slee in between. Also my DD although I don't commute, so miles will probably be less than 10k a year. Thanks!

 

[fireball]

For 2 -3k more you can get one with a good bit less miles. If you're going to spend more money on it with mods spend a few more bucks now and get something with more life left in it.

My $.02

 

[Tremek]

Plainly speaking, how critical is it to find a 150k mile truck versus a 200-250k mile truck? Very curious as to how you guys perceive these rigs handling the miles in that range.

 

[REDrum]

Plainly speaking, how critical is it to find a 150k mile truck versus a 200-250k mile truck? Very curious as to how you guys perceive these rigs handling the miles in that range.

All depends on what you are going to do with it. Americans have a big problem with high milage, dependig on maintnance and where it lived, I don't.

As for the trucks you noted above, I don't think any have lockers, rather only ATRAC. If you are going to be seriously wheeling your hundy, that may be a big factor for you. IIRC 99 was last year for lockers. I also hate AHC on Lexi, its a soccer mom feature.

 

[Macfly]

Greetings All,
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2005 LC with 12,200 miles from an elderly neighbor who purchased new and would love some input on your thoughts of a "fair" price. I cannot find any comps listed anywhere with mileage in this range and the kbb numbers seem a bit skewed to me. It gets driven every other day but within about a five mile radius of home. I don't think anyone has ever been in the backseat and rarely the passenger seat. The truck looks new, it will be my brides full time rig. I'm looking forward to stepping over to the luxurious but capable side, I've had a few 40's and currently an '85 60 in the driveway. Thanks in advance for any shared thoughts.

 

[REDrum]

Greetings All,
I cannot find any comps listed anywhere with mileage in this range and the kbb numbers seem a bit skewed to me. .

KBB, NADA, Edmonds are the industry benchmarks. Like them, not like them or find them skewed, their number are based on huge amount transaction data.

Also, keep in mind the resale value of 100s is stunning low, compared to rest of the Toyota line up.

For another data point, you could have your freind drive it to a dealer and ask what trade in would be, then use that number to triangulate further from the above guides noted.

 

[Schwein]

Hey guys what about a cruiser I may buy on a whim, 1 owner from a rich town in ct all service plus 90k done at the dealer. 104k miles champagne color pretty near mint inside and out little to no rust and factory nav? Guy wants 12.9 I offered 12.5 seems reasonable?

 

[FJ62INTX]

Greetings All,
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2005 LC with 12,200 miles from an elderly neighbor who purchased new and would love some input on your thoughts of a "fair" price. I cannot find any comps listed anywhere with mileage in this range and the kbb numbers seem a bit skewed to me. It gets driven every other day but within about a five mile radius of home. I don't think anyone has ever been in the backseat and rarely the passenger seat. The truck looks new, it will be my brides full time rig. I'm looking forward to stepping over to the luxurious but capable side, I've had a few 40's and currently an '85 60 in the driveway. Thanks in advance for any shared thoughts.

Wow! Only 12,xxx miles!


I wouldn't be too worried about paying more than KBB for it personally.

If I were You, I would have it checked by the local Toyota dealer and have the oil analyzed by blackstone for the engine's condition.

It may be a sludgy mess in there, which is why I wouldn't pay more than KBB...

You might look at my prior post about short tripped vehicles.

 

[mcgaskins]

Also, keep in mind the resale value of 100s is stunning low, compared to rest of the Toyota line up.

Do you mean depreciation is low? I think that resale value is quite high on 100s - my 98 that was purchased new for $45k nearly 16 years ago still books for $11.5k private party which is 26% residual. Compare that to my 2001 BMW X5 which sold for $57k new and when I traded it in a year and a half ago in pristine shape with 95k miles on it I was lucky to get $8k for it for a 14% residual after barely 11 years.

 

[OregonLC]

Greetings All,
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2005 LC with 12,200 miles from an elderly neighbor who purchased new and would love some input on your thoughts of a "fair" price. I cannot find any comps listed anywhere with mileage in this range and the kbb numbers seem a bit skewed to me. It gets driven every other day but within about a five mile radius of home. I don't think anyone has ever been in the backseat and rarely the passenger seat. The truck looks new, it will be my brides full time rig. I'm looking forward to stepping over to the luxurious but capable side, I've had a few 40's and currently an '85 60 in the driveway. Thanks in advance for any shared thoughts.

I've seen some 05's with very low miles get advertised for close to $40k, but they sit and sit and sit. Trying to find a buyer who is willing to pay a low-mile premium for a small market vehicle will be difficult. Assuming that everything is working and in good order (not necessarily the case with vehicles that sit for long periods!) I would think somewhere around $30k would be the right number for a fair sale. You can buy 05's with 80-100k on them all day long for $23-$25k. A $5k premium for the super low miles seems reasonable. But again, you're really off the charts with this particular vehicle and need to determine what it is worth to you.

Again, I would be very careful to inspect that you don't have a pink elephant in front of you. If from a wet or corrosive climate, it could have significant corrosion problems that aren't visible to the eye. At a minimum, I'd have the brakes, trans, AHC, and coolant flushed. I'd probably also want to do a quick compression test or bore scope just to make sure there wasn't any corrosion or pitting of the cylinder liners. I'd probably also do a t-belt job just to replace the front end seals and water pump. Might be overkill, but vehicles are not designed to sit. Seals dry out and fail quickly when use is resume and fluids can absorb moisture and experience damage that surpasses the wear rate for a vehicle with much higher mileage. None of this will be known until you start using it. My point is the value of the low miles is partially offset by the risk of hidden damage. Caveat emptor.