The stick-on fender flares are market specific...mostly equipped and sold in the gulf states area IIRC. Most LC's do not have them. The paint scheme on the one with the flares that you posted is a little unique compared to most I've seen. Usually the area below the side trim isn't color matched like that - could have been the PO painted everything to create a two tone appearance, or it may have been done by the factory. Not sure. Either way, it's just a cosmetic thing. There are no special editions or anything like that to the best of my knowledge, so the extra cladding and paint more than likely doesn't designate anything special.
Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Trunk Monkey
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Rat Patrol said:
I actually have 2 1999 100 Series in my driveway... One all white, one two-tone white over silver...exactly as you have pictured. Both are original paint. The two-tone Cruiser hade the stick-on flares but they are long gone.
In person, I like the all white MUCH better. I just sold the 2-tone to my brother-in-law.
HTH
Hey guys,
I'd like to find out if anyone here in the PNW has checked out the 2000 and 2001 LC's at the Toyota dealer in Burlington, WA? I've noticed they've had the 2000 for a while and just reduced the price on it. They haven't posted any pictures online of their 2001.
I've been looking for a couple months now, it's slim pickings around here unless I were willing to increase my budget and step up to a 2003-4 which I'm not ready to do yet.
Thanks, RJ
I'd like to find out if anyone here in the PNW has checked out the 2000 and 2001 LC's at the Toyota dealer in Burlington, WA? I've noticed they've had the 2000 for a while and just reduced the price on it. They haven't posted any pictures online of their 2001.
I've been looking for a couple months now, it's slim pickings around here unless I were willing to increase my budget and step up to a 2003-4 which I'm not ready to do yet.
Thanks, RJ
RJ, if you're not finding what you want locally, don't be afraid to search further away. Most dealerships can have a courtesy vehicle pick you up at the local airport, and spending a couple hundred bucks on airfare to go pick up a well maintained, rust free southern truck and drive it back will save you at least that much and more in the long run. Dennis might chime in here shortly about the PNW vehicles, but just some food for thought. 
PNW vehicles are rust free too, and they are not "sun beaten", so we have that going for us... 
RJ, if you're not finding what you want locally, don't be afraid to search further away. Most dealerships can have a courtesy vehicle pick you up at the local airport, and spending a couple hundred bucks on airfare to go pick up a well maintained, rust free southern truck and drive it back will save you at least that much and more in the long run. Dennis might chime in here shortly about the PNW vehicles, but just some food for thought.
Keep looking RJ. They're out there. I keep an RSS feed of CL going and they continue to pop up. I have no idea of the quality, but there's an 03 in Portland right now with 126k on it for $20,950. 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 4-Door SUV
I second what JB said about expanding your search (AZ, NV, CA). Just make sure you're willing to fly to see it in person before you commit to the deal.
1999 vs 2000
I have been lurking here for a while and have learned a great deal but I would like to hear all of your opinions on whether I should be looking for a early model LC with a diff lock or a newer 100 with A-TRAC and VSC.
The two primary uses for this LC will be launching my boat and as a winter DD. I am located in SE CT and will most likely never be seriously off road like I have been with my brother in CO, so off road ability is not really relevant.
The boat and trailer combined is right around 6,650 pounds and I have had no issues launching and retrieving it with the family 4runner as well as towing it around 6 miles round trip to fuel up at the gas station. However, in the future I would like to head up to the cape once or twice a year to chase blue fin tuna and I don't think a 4runner would be able to tow the boat on a 300 mile round trip.
My biggest worry is a loss of driving performance in the snow from my current winter DD, a Audi a4 2.8 quattro. Is there any measurable difference between the pre electronic LC and the A-TRAC models in the snow or are they both more than adequate. My biggest concern is the lack of a viscous center diff.
I look forward to hearing your opinions
Catlsr3
I have been lurking here for a while and have learned a great deal but I would like to hear all of your opinions on whether I should be looking for a early model LC with a diff lock or a newer 100 with A-TRAC and VSC.
The two primary uses for this LC will be launching my boat and as a winter DD. I am located in SE CT and will most likely never be seriously off road like I have been with my brother in CO, so off road ability is not really relevant.
The boat and trailer combined is right around 6,650 pounds and I have had no issues launching and retrieving it with the family 4runner as well as towing it around 6 miles round trip to fuel up at the gas station. However, in the future I would like to head up to the cape once or twice a year to chase blue fin tuna and I don't think a 4runner would be able to tow the boat on a 300 mile round trip.
My biggest worry is a loss of driving performance in the snow from my current winter DD, a Audi a4 2.8 quattro. Is there any measurable difference between the pre electronic LC and the A-TRAC models in the snow or are they both more than adequate. My biggest concern is the lack of a viscous center diff.
I look forward to hearing your opinions
Catlsr3
They both suck. The 1999 has fragile front diff. The 2000 has tranny with a short fuse.
tradeoffs in them all...
1998-99 2 pinion diff and rear locker
2000+ beginning of 4 pinion diff but some (few) have had tranny problems but ATRAC is outstanding as is VSC; 4 speed tranny
2003 got more horsepower and 5speed tranny with lots of other upgrads such as steering, stronger u-joints, better driveshafts, no contact throttle position sensor, etc....
If you dont mind having Nav-HVAC-RADIO all built into one unit that also fails..I would say the 2003 is best bet for upgraded configurations, better systems, etc...minus the head unit for NAV-RADIO-HVAC.
If that is a little too steep for you I would go for the 2002 model that had no real changes from 2001...but they had two years to get it right.....and three years on the tranny to work out bugs and other things found. I would say late 2002 or the 2003 is best all around depending on how much of a deal breaker the Nav unit display is since it is not replaceable with aftermarket systems if it fails....for that reason I would go 2002...but that 5 speed would be nice. It is a tradeoff....
Standard head unit that can be replaced with new aftermarket but only have 4 speed.......or 5speed tranny with lots of drivetrain changes for better...but roll dice on head unit.
The holy grail would be a 2003 without the Navigation system....now that is the TICKET! If you can find one....
Just my two cents.
That being said I love my 2000.......blew front diff on 4 pinion....and either way it is upgradeable with ARB or aftermarket gears if it blows and gives you excuse to also change gearing if you go for larger tires. If tranny blows...rebuild it or buy a refurbished one and drop it in for antoher 150,000-200,000 more miles.....any choice is good...just depends on your tradeoffs.
1998-99 2 pinion diff and rear locker
2000+ beginning of 4 pinion diff but some (few) have had tranny problems but ATRAC is outstanding as is VSC; 4 speed tranny
2003 got more horsepower and 5speed tranny with lots of other upgrads such as steering, stronger u-joints, better driveshafts, no contact throttle position sensor, etc....
If you dont mind having Nav-HVAC-RADIO all built into one unit that also fails..I would say the 2003 is best bet for upgraded configurations, better systems, etc...minus the head unit for NAV-RADIO-HVAC.
If that is a little too steep for you I would go for the 2002 model that had no real changes from 2001...but they had two years to get it right.....and three years on the tranny to work out bugs and other things found. I would say late 2002 or the 2003 is best all around depending on how much of a deal breaker the Nav unit display is since it is not replaceable with aftermarket systems if it fails....for that reason I would go 2002...but that 5 speed would be nice. It is a tradeoff....
Standard head unit that can be replaced with new aftermarket but only have 4 speed.......or 5speed tranny with lots of drivetrain changes for better...but roll dice on head unit.
The holy grail would be a 2003 without the Navigation system....now that is the TICKET! If you can find one....
Just my two cents.
That being said I love my 2000.......blew front diff on 4 pinion....and either way it is upgradeable with ARB or aftermarket gears if it blows and gives you excuse to also change gearing if you go for larger tires.
If tranny blows...rebuild it or buy a refurbished one and drop it in for antoher 150,000-200,000 more miles.....any choice is good...just depends on your tradeoffs.
You'll never blow the front diff of a 99 with your type of driving. Even with the light offroading I do, it's a non issue.
That being said, still I vote for 2000+ because it's less than a 2-3% chance you'll have any issues whatsoever with your tranny, secondly, you wouldn't have to do the pin 7 mod for pulling your boat out in low range as the 2000+ leaves the center diff unlocked when you put it in low range. There is a diff lock button on the dash to lock it up when you need it. With the 99 it's a modification to achieve this.
I think the 98-99's have better gearing for towing though, anyone else's thoughts on this? I could be wrong, just remember hearing it.
As for the VSC/Atrac, the best part of it all. BTW, viscous is not the greatest in the snow, and a 2000+ vehicle will outperform the previous years in these conditions any day of the week. Unless you're actually using the truck offroad and really use the locker for rock crawling etc. get the 2000.
That being said, still I vote for 2000+ because it's less than a 2-3% chance you'll have any issues whatsoever with your tranny, secondly, you wouldn't have to do the pin 7 mod for pulling your boat out in low range as the 2000+ leaves the center diff unlocked when you put it in low range. There is a diff lock button on the dash to lock it up when you need it. With the 99 it's a modification to achieve this.
I think the 98-99's have better gearing for towing though, anyone else's thoughts on this? I could be wrong, just remember hearing it.
As for the VSC/Atrac, the best part of it all. BTW, viscous is not the greatest in the snow, and a 2000+ vehicle will outperform the previous years in these conditions any day of the week. Unless you're actually using the truck offroad and really use the locker for rock crawling etc. get the 2000.
Ditto. ATRAC is awesome for snow and ice.
If you presently drive an Audi A4, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how much fun it is to drive the V8 Landcruiser with ATRAC in the snow.
Transmission problems in the 2000 seem to be way over-hyped. Seems like most of the bad ones have already been weeded out by now.
I agree no need to worry about blow diff on 99 year. Over stated ! Now put some 35 on there and you have that chance with any year. That being said get the 2000 with Atrac.
Another vote for the 2000 w/ ATRAC. It's been absolutely outstanding in the snow. The trans issue is, as already mentioned, WAY overblown. The likelyhood of you getting one with a suspect trans is extremely small.
+1 for ATRAC.
Not affiliated but figured someone might need one.
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 4WD
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 4WD
I love that color combo, and no AHC to boot! High mileage for the year, but good deal considering it's an 07
If you have a pair ( or single) of LX470 headlights and would like to get a nice upgrade to HID and improved beam pattern PM me. I would need them shipped to Atlanta for a little research. Turn around time would be 10 days max. Cost is under $150 for the headlight mod, you can source your own HID kit or get a kit sent back with your lights. If no improvement found I'll pay shipping.
Thanks.
Edit: I have a LX coming to the shop tommorow. I will update in separate thread with photos and specs. Thanks.
Thanks.
Edit: I have a LX coming to the shop tommorow. I will update in separate thread with photos and specs. Thanks.
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