Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here

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Hi All,
I am doing research for buying a 03 LC and interestingly I found that the blue book values mentioned by kbb.com and edmunds.com to be differing with large amounts. Kbb showed a value of around 27k for a particular vehicle while Edmunds showed a value of 21.5k for the same vehicle. Which value is realistic in todays buyer's market ?
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Are you looking to buy from a Dealer or private party? Those prices alone as you know will vary alot.Maybe it's just me but it seems that these trucks are so well built and that the folks that have them seem to take good care of them for the most part and well worth the $$.
From the miles that you want it would be good to see and look into that the big T-belt service has been done along with other basic stuff.That could be a factor in getting a good deal.
Post up with what you want to buy and maybe some of us that are local can check it out for you.After all,we dig this and would jump at the chance to look at a cruiser for a fellow mudder!!:cheers:
 
Are you looking to buy from a Dealer or private party? Those prices alone as you know will vary alot.Maybe it's just me but it seems that these trucks are so well built and that the folks that have them seem to take good care of them for the most part and well worth the $$.
From the miles that you want it would be good to see and look into that the big T-belt service has been done along with other basic stuff.That could be a factor in getting a good deal.
Post up with what you want to buy and maybe some of us that are local can check it out for you.After all,we dig this and would jump at the chance to look at a cruiser for a fellow mudder!!:cheers:
From a dealer. Both prices I mentioned are retail prices (which a dealer will charge). The trade-in and private party values are still lower.
 
KBB and Edmunds are only good to use as a guideline for vehicle prices and are usually way high in their estimates as to what a vehicle is worth.
 
WTB Tundra 18'' rims, aluminum

Recent TLC owner here looking to upgrade my rims and tires. I just bought a 1999 TLC and would like to park the factory 16's for the "fuller" 18's.

Thanks to all the gear heads on MUD, I'm comfortable saying 07 + Tundra 18's will fit my TLC. Will mount either Yoko Geos or Kumho R/V, but first I need the rims.

Thanks to anyone with info.
 
So I got a call this afternoon from my local dealer. He wants me to come back up there and try it all again. I told him I need $6k out of my car, to get the difference to around $21k. The thing is, after reading on this board for the past few days, I've become a little iffy on this particular LC. It's a 2004 w/ nav and no rear dvd. I have kids, so the dvd is something I would want. How common are the problems with the nav. I mentioned it to the salesman who asked the service tech about it. He determined that there was no recall, just a TSB which basically says replace the whole unit. If there hasn't been a problem with it in the past 7 years, are the chances any lower of the problem occurring at all? I also mentioned that at 78k miles, the 90k service is coming up soon, which'll be $1200-$1500, which is what I've read on here. So besides nav issues, 90k service, no dvd, and rising gas prices...is there anything else I need to bring up to try to get the price down a little? I still think it's too high at $26,990.
 
#1 - Don't go back there until the price is where you want it. They will either come down or they won't.
 
Saw this while I was out today. Price looks good. Interior is so-so. Leather has the usual scuffs and one tear on ds. Steering wheel is in bad shape. A few scuffs on the bumpers and a few pin stripes. Pretty normal for a 12-13 year old truck. I assume it needs t-belt and 2nd 90k service. I am passing it on to my Dad, but I doubt he will be interested.
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Hi everyone.

I'm going to test drive a 2000 Land Cruiser tomorrow afternoon. White with grey interior. 95k miles. The seller doesn't have any service records. Has a clean carfax. Says it's had two owners. Claims to have had the 90k service. Everything looks in good shape in good pictures.

He's asking $16,000. But he's dropped the price by $750 in the last week. What do you think a fair price is?

I'm thinking about offering $14-15,000.

Is there a way to tell if 90k mile services have been done? I read that there is a new sticker with the date or milage stuck onto the timing belt cover afterward.

Any suggestions on things to look out for on an 11 year old cruiser with close to 100k miles?

Thanks everyone.
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Hi everyone.

I'm going to test drive a 2000 Land Cruiser tomorrow afternoon. White with grey interior. 95k miles. The seller doesn't have any service records. Has a clean carfax. Says it's had two owners. Claims to have had the 90k service. Everything looks in good shape in good pictures.

He's asking $16,000. But he's dropped the price by $750 in the last week. What do you think a fair price is?

I'm thinking about offering $14-15,000.

Is there a way to tell if 90k mile services have been done? I read that there is a new sticker with the date or milage stuck onto the timing belt cover afterward.

Any suggestions on things to look out for on an 11 year old cruiser with close to 100k miles?

Thanks everyone.
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I test drove it today.

I couldn't find the sticker that says that they changed the timing belt. The serpentine belt looked new. And I found a sticker saying the transmission had been serviced at 85k. The engine was very clean. The antenna doesn't go down anymore.

The truck's exterior was perfect. Inside needs some cleaning. Food, stains, wear on the leather, etc. The tire tread looks pretty worn to me like 30% left.

Seemed to drive okay. At 70 mph the steering wheel vibrated, wondering if it has to do with the worn tires.

I didn't notice any rust. Spent most of it's life in Texas.

Had third seat, rear air conditioning, running boards, roof racks and sunroof.

It seems like it'll run $500-800 for new tires and $300-750 for the timing belt and PM if it hasn't been done already.

What do you think would be a fair offer? He's asking $16250 down from $16900 last week.
 
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What do you think would be a fair offer? He's asking $16250 down from $16900 last week.

According to edmunds.com it is worth $11,000 from a private seller and $12,800 from a dealer.

Take those numbers and subtract $1200 for the timing belt service you have to assume isn't done and whatever you expect it will cost to fix the steering wheel shake that probably isn't caused by the tires. Plus the cost of new tires.
 
According to edmunds.com it is worth $11,000 from a private seller and $12,800 from a dealer.

Take those numbers and subtract $1200 for the timing belt service you have to assume isn't done and whatever you expect it will cost to fix the steering wheel shake that probably isn't caused by the tires. Plus the cost of new tires.


Either prices have dropped a ton in the last 9 months or edmunds is completely wet. A nice 2000 LC with 3rd row and under 100k would realistically go for around $15-16k in Oregon right now. I know because I have a fried looking to buy one and he's missed out on a couple now in that range and they go quick. We typically see them advertised up around $18-19k. If you can get it for $11k you'd be getting an incredible deal!
 
According to edmunds.com it is worth $11,000 from a private seller and $12,800 from a dealer.

Take those numbers and subtract $1200 for the timing belt service you have to assume isn't done and whatever you expect it will cost to fix the steering wheel shake that probably isn't caused by the tires. Plus the cost of new tires.

This is what KBB suggests:

Blue Book® Private Party Value
Excellent
$17,405.00
Blue Book® Private Party Value
Good
$16,505.00
Blue Book® Private Party Value
Fair
$15,055.00

I'd say the exterior is excellent and the interior is fair. Should I take the KBB Good Price and start subtracting the cost of tires, PM, 90k Service, Antenna, Tire Balancing and interior detailing?

The other option is to have the seller and I take it to the dealership and have them inspect it and tell me what it'd cost to bring everything to where it should be.
 
One rare bird. '03+ NO NAVI and 17" wheels

I was thinking about picking this one up for myself but I just don't have the time/desire right now to switch all my parts over, buy, sell, etc. So I'm passing it on to you.

I have not physically looked at it yet but I have confirmed that it is still available TODAY. I'm sure it'll sell soon though. It was a trade in... spent it's first 4 years in Los Angeles and 4 years in Washington. Carfax is supposedly clean.

Used Honda | East Bay California Honda Dealer | Livermore Honda Dealer | Honda Dealer Livermore | Livermore Honda

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I'm thinking about taking the Blue Book® Private Party Value Good: $16,505.00 and subtracting $1200 for 90k service and $800 for tires and reconditioning and offering $14500.

Does that seem fair?

That seems like a reasonable (if not really good) deal to me. One lesson I've seen again and again with these trucks is that there are good ones, ok ones, and tortured ones. If you come across a good one be confident in your find and be willing to pay market pricing. It would be much better to slightly overpay for an honest, solid truck than to save a few grand on a tortured example.
 
Buying advice: 98-04 LC/LX help needed

Hello 100 Series owners,


I have a great '97 40th Anni 80 Series but a growing family and little time for off-road fun has me wanting a 100 Series.

The vehicle will be used on pavement most of the time with the occasional off-road adventure. My price range dictates that I will have to buy an earlier model; sad because I would have loved the extra HP in the '06+ models.


Can you please help with a few questions?

-Do all '98-'04 100 Series have locking center and rear diffs or was it an option?

-Does the 4spd vs 5spd transmission make much of a difference? I assume the 5spd is more desirable but I think '03 was the first year for this?

-I will end up with the a Slee/OME 2.5" lift. Does buying an LX with the AHC suspension make the swap far more costly and difficult or is it simply a matter of removing the old AHC bits?

-Are there any major weak points or things to look for before buying? I know about leaky CV joints, the need for T-belt changes, etc. Are the front diffs really that fragile?

-Has anyone complied a list of all the available factory-installed options for the US-spec 100 Series? Sellers rarely tell you which options their rigs don't have :lol:


Thanks :)
 

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