crushers
post ho
due to the desire of the Stateboys for diesel 70s and especially the LHD configuration sometimes ... the rose-colored glasses can come into play.
this post should help those individuals that are interested in buying a 70 series.
i have been contacted by individuals from Mud about 70s that come up for sale, especially over the last couple years since they have become importable to the States.
if it was me that was interested in purchasing a diesel 70 in Canada, i would want to know exactly where to look for bodywork. i would want to look at the truck in person or have someone you can trust to look it over.
i would recommend this even if you are interested in one of my trucks, get someone neutral to look it over. someone that KNOWS 70s or look at it in person.
this thread will show you where the 70s rust, these are the areas to look at if you are considering buying from Canada, East coast, West coast or anywhere in between:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/468432-old-bj-70-farmers-field.html
this was an extreme example but it show very well, where to look for rust and / or body work.
treat every truck sale as a scam, always go with your gut feelings ... if something seems too good to be true then treat it as such.
-have the seller pull the inner panels to see the joint between the inner wheel well and the outter fender.
-lift the carpet and the retainer to see the rear floor to rear sill joint.
-lift the carpet under the drivers and passenger foot area and look for rust, seam sealer, paint (or lack of it).
-look at the rear body lip just in front of the rear bumper where it meets the inner fender, same with the front section of the same inner fender, the 70s rot there because of overlap.
-check the frame next to the factory muffler location, the salt sits in the frame and the heat from the muffler keeps it active
-check the front frame horns and especially next to and between the steering box for soft spots in the frame
-check the shackel mounts to the frame at the rear of the rear springs
-especially check the lower windshield frame both inside and outside since these frames love to sweat and rust.
-check the A pillars both at the top outside and the inside near the joint about half way down.
-check the overlap joint of the sill outside and below the rear front door corners, the bottom of the B pillar, is prone to rusting.
a joint should have a divit that shows, usually bodywork hides this divit or groove.
a joint should have seam sealer installed.
take a close look at the rusted areas on page two, and print off the pics, of the link, it will give you an excellent reference for when you lose track of that vehicle you are looking at.
remember, it is easier and cheaper to walk away from a questionable rig than pay and keep paying as the repairs add up. scam artists come all nationalities, they can own their own dealerships, companies or be a curber. i have met completely honest curbers and licensed thieves, a piece of paper means nothing.
i hope this helps those shopping for a 70,
(feel free to add points that you feel is important for those desiring a 70.)
this post should help those individuals that are interested in buying a 70 series.
i have been contacted by individuals from Mud about 70s that come up for sale, especially over the last couple years since they have become importable to the States.
if it was me that was interested in purchasing a diesel 70 in Canada, i would want to know exactly where to look for bodywork. i would want to look at the truck in person or have someone you can trust to look it over.
i would recommend this even if you are interested in one of my trucks, get someone neutral to look it over. someone that KNOWS 70s or look at it in person.
this thread will show you where the 70s rust, these are the areas to look at if you are considering buying from Canada, East coast, West coast or anywhere in between:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/468432-old-bj-70-farmers-field.html
this was an extreme example but it show very well, where to look for rust and / or body work.
treat every truck sale as a scam, always go with your gut feelings ... if something seems too good to be true then treat it as such.
-have the seller pull the inner panels to see the joint between the inner wheel well and the outter fender.
-lift the carpet and the retainer to see the rear floor to rear sill joint.
-lift the carpet under the drivers and passenger foot area and look for rust, seam sealer, paint (or lack of it).
-look at the rear body lip just in front of the rear bumper where it meets the inner fender, same with the front section of the same inner fender, the 70s rot there because of overlap.
-check the frame next to the factory muffler location, the salt sits in the frame and the heat from the muffler keeps it active
-check the front frame horns and especially next to and between the steering box for soft spots in the frame
-check the shackel mounts to the frame at the rear of the rear springs
-especially check the lower windshield frame both inside and outside since these frames love to sweat and rust.
-check the A pillars both at the top outside and the inside near the joint about half way down.
-check the overlap joint of the sill outside and below the rear front door corners, the bottom of the B pillar, is prone to rusting.
a joint should have a divit that shows, usually bodywork hides this divit or groove.
a joint should have seam sealer installed.
take a close look at the rusted areas on page two, and print off the pics, of the link, it will give you an excellent reference for when you lose track of that vehicle you are looking at.
remember, it is easier and cheaper to walk away from a questionable rig than pay and keep paying as the repairs add up. scam artists come all nationalities, they can own their own dealerships, companies or be a curber. i have met completely honest curbers and licensed thieves, a piece of paper means nothing.
i hope this helps those shopping for a 70,
(feel free to add points that you feel is important for those desiring a 70.)
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