Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (1 Viewer)

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Knocked this out over the weekend on a 2003 LX470
With the following Amazon sourced Toyota 2061B, found here which was specified earlier in the post as working for my make/model/year.

Learnings :
The '03 LX had some differences in the orientation in the youtube video:
  1. The lock cylinder had the release button at the top of the shaft versus the bottom
  2. The new lock barrel indexed to me with the brass tabs to ~ 7 o'clock
  3. Don't be afraid to remove the white ignition module at the end of the tube. The hardest part is finding a good screwdriver to fit around/through the wiring
  4. I lost one of the two tiny springs (the smallest one) from the old lock barrel. Took the replacement piece to a locksmith and was able to source the replacement spring (couldn't find anything online for size/dimensions)
  5. (least important) From what I can tell, I purchased 2 rods, most replacement rods are cast/molded from the original. As such the tolerances are not laser sharp as the OEM, this mattered as replacement spring tolerances/resistance needed to work against the new slop. My advice, if you can't get adequate resistance/staying force for the brass tabs you need to move over. Consider finding/sourcing springs for the new tolerances. I can't imaging having to fish out the brash pieces if it came apart within the cylinder
  6. A Grabber tool like this would be ideal to fish out the broken rod

Good luck
 
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does anyone have a picture of the temp fix with a slit-cut socket? I am reading through so many pages and closed the tab, now I can't find it.
 
So I cut a 10mm deep socket and keep a extra long extension on hand along with a wire coat hanger piece about a foot long. The coat hanger can fish out the broken piece and then the socket will grab the half that’s still in there so you can start it. Just make sure the key is close to the ignition so the anti theft doesn’t keep it from starting.
After mine broke I keep this kit on hand. I drove with the socket set up for over a week while I waited on parts.

View attachment 3198711
Bump for the socket pic
 
Bump for the socket pic
Thank you. I am going to keep this in my 100 as a trail fix. This and the failing master cylinder are my only concerns of being stranded.
 
Just put a new master in last year. Hopefully good for another 20+ years
How much did you get it for? I'm debating whether I should get a rebuilt one from Andy Le or buy a new one. It seems like everyone has good reviews on the rebuilt one.
 
How much did you get it for? I'm debating whether I should get a rebuilt one from Andy Le or buy a new one. It seems like everyone has good reviews on the rebuilt one.
Are you guys referring to the Master Cylinder or accumulator?
 
I hope somebody that knows what they’re doing can help me soon! I’m supposed to leave for rural Alabama tomorrow. I have everything apart on my 05. I was doing this fix as a PM because my ignition was starting to stick after I left it to get the tires rotated. I figured one of the techs turned the key too hard and it was about to break the rod. Have everything apart, and I took off the ignition switch on the back of the cylinder, but I still can’t get the rod out. It spins both ways but won’t release. Thanks!
 
I hope somebody that knows what they’re doing can help me soon! I’m supposed to leave for rural Alabama tomorrow. I have everything apart on my 05. I was doing this fix as a PM because my ignition was starting to stick after I left it to get the tires rotated. I figured one of the techs turned the key too hard and it was about to break the rod. Have everything apart, and I took off the ignition switch on the back of the cylinder, but I still can’t get the rod out. It spins both ways but won’t release. Thanks!
Never mind. I got it out. I wasn’t pushing the copper spring loaded plate in far enough to turn it completely upside down. What a waste! The part I ordered wasn’t correct. And the one I pulled out looks fine. I don’t know if later years had a newer design, but it seems thicker in the spot that most of the others tend to break. But if anyone has thoughts on why my ignition is getting partially stuck, I’d love to know. I’m able to jiggle the key to get it to turn.
 
Never mind. I got it out. I wasn’t pushing the copper spring loaded plate in far enough to turn it completely upside down. What a waste! The part I ordered wasn’t correct. And the one I pulled out looks fine. I don’t know if later years had a newer design, but it seems thicker in the spot that most of the others tend to break. But if anyone has thoughts on why my ignition is getting partially stuck, I’d love to know. I’m able to jiggle the key to get it to turn.
Damn, rod break paranoia strikes again lol. Since your current setup seems fine, my go-to in this situation would be to just spray some silicone lube on your key / in ignition. Work the key in and out, wipe it clean, spray, repeat, turn key a few times. etc. etc.
 
Damn, rod break paranoia strikes again lol. Since your current setup seems fine, my go-to in this situation would be to just spray some silicone lube on your key / in ignition. Work the key in and out, wipe it clean, spray, repeat, turn key a few times. etc. etc.
👍👍
 
Damn, rod break paranoia strikes again lol. Since your current setup seems fine, my go-to in this situation would be to just spray some silicone lube on your key / in ignition. Work the key in and out, wipe it clean, spray, repeat, turn key a few times. etc. etc.
I have an extra rod that i ordered if any one needs it, hit me up.
 
I have just the rod assembly for a vehicle with automatic tilt. it's my understanding if you use the wrong one, it may cause battery drain. Barrel rod number 7853A. Where do you live and I can give shipping cost too.
Let me check the p/n against my vin to see if comaptable.

BTW: I also have the auto tilt (along w. extension).
 

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